Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

Oil In Spark Plugs

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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 01:16 PM
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Default Oil In Spark Plugs

So I was chaning my plugs today and noticed there was oil in the tubes. I was also going to change my valve cover gasket, cause I had suspected a leak. Well I replaced the gasket as well as the spark plug well gaskets. I tried to soak up as much oil as possible before pulling the plugs. So I got them out, changed plugs and now the car kinda bogs down and sometimes hesitates. I figure some oil got down there as it smoked a bit when I first started it back up. Is this something that will works its way out, or something I should have looked at? Oh yeah, 97 Accord with H22.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 02:49 PM
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Default Re: Oil In Spark Plugs

Are your cables in good condition? Are there any swelling from the oil being in there? When was the last time you had a good tune up?
Are the plugs gap properly?
Check those basic stuffs.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 03:07 PM
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Default Re: Oil In Spark Plugs

The oil in the cylinders should have burnt itself out in the first minute or two of running.

It's possible that you may have oil-fouled the plugs. I'd pull them and clean or replace them if they appear oily. Only use NGK or Denso spark plugs. NGKs usually come pre-gapped to around 0.040" or 1.0mm, which is correct for most Hondas.

As mentioned above, inspect the wires as well. Oil can wreak havok on the rubber and cause them to fall apart. If you need new wires, I recommend NGK or OEM Sumitomo wires. Cheapo parts store wires tend to be junk straight out of the box.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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Default Re: Oil In Spark Plugs

HGK plugs and wires. Changed to Iridium today, should I switch back? What would cause the car to run oddly? It bogs a little and stutters sometimes.
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 06:18 PM
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Default Re: Oil In Spark Plugs

Originally Posted by BBallz24
HGK plugs and wires. Changed to Iridium today, should I switch back? What would cause the car to run oddly? It bogs a little and stutters sometimes.
Any number of things could cause stuttering/bogging. It's a '97, so OBD-II; is the Check Engine light on? When was the last tune up (fuel filter, air filter, PCV valve, distributor cap, distributor rotor)? Any trouble starting the car in particularly hot or cold weather?
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 06:33 AM
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Default Re: Oil In Spark Plugs

I just think it's odd it just started doing it. Check engine light is on due to no EGR with my Skunk2 manifold. New MSD distributor cap/rotor kit was ordered Saturday morning and I'll put it on when it comes in. I'll do the plugs in a few weeks when I get the money. Ones on don't look bad at all, so I think they'll be ok. Might one of the new plugs have fouled? I'll try the old ones tonight to see if there is any difference.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 06:51 AM
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Default Re: Oil In Spark Plugs

You should have used Anti-Seize on the plug threads, if you used too much or there is an excessive amount of oil on the threads in the head than there may be excessive resistance created on the ground side of the plugs (they ground through the threads). This would cause the plugs not to fire as well or at all.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 07:31 AM
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Default Re: Oil In Spark Plugs

Hmmm......well I'll take them out tonight and clean them off, then see how it goes.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 12:14 PM
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Default Re: Oil In Spark Plugs

How do I do leak-down or compression test? I have an air compressor at my mom's
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 06:17 PM
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Default Re: Oil In Spark Plugs

For the compression test you'll need the compression gauge to test the compression of the cylinders. You can use the hose of the compression gauge to force air (with the air compressor) into the engine to hear where there is leaks.
First you'll have to take the gauge off of the hose. There is a valve on the side of the hose that goes into the engine, so you'll need to take that valve out first. Screw the hose into the engine (where the spark plug was) and hook up the other end with the air compressor hose and put some air through the engine and listen for leaks.
Listen for the intake and exhaust valves.
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