How many of you would be interested in a step-by-step procedure of coating and wraping a header with pictures? (No, not actually wrapping the header with actual pictures...smartasses...Mike P. comes to mind ) I will be doing this tomorrow and was wondering if it would be worth it to document.

 

I think so, it would be great for us n00bs, plus a extra step by step guide never hurt anyone eh?

 

Well, I just found out that it might not happen because I'm having trouble obtaining a digital camera from work. Something about "taking without permission," "workers ethics," and "being asked to leave." Fmeh!

 

"SOHC my DOHC, man!"

 

I saw something like that coming.

 

I also have some pictures I could contribute from when I wrapped mine if need be.
I think it would be a nice addition to our tech articles.

 

i wanna see i wanna see i wanna see

 

me too. xmas is coming and i cant wrap worth crap




another How too is always good to show the NON searching noobs

 

TTT, whatever happened with this? i was looking for ward to the project .

 

He has done it already, but could not take pics.

 

what did you use whered you get what from ect..? i can manage a wrap without pics i guesss....

 

1. Removed header.
2. Applied entire can of black-ceramic 1200 degree paint.
***When dealing with thermal wrap, wear long pants, shirt and gloves!! A **** load of fiberglass dust was flying around and got stuck in my skin and was hurting like a *******
3. Unwrap entire roll, and begin wrapping primaries leaving about 1/4" of overlap.
4. Use metal plumbing clamps to hold it on. I used 5, 4 small, and one big for where the tubes converge.
5. When areas get too small to pass the wrap through, wrap two primaries together.
6. Once you get to the bottom of the header where the primaries converge, start to work your way back up.

Its pretty much common sense. DEI sells a special sylicon spray that is supposed to seal the wrap together. You might want to get some of this stuff. After about 5 minutes of driving, dont be scared that the wrap changed color one you.

 

i saw the top portion from your "shitbox" post, looks nice.
estimated cost ...your cost?


whois/where is DEI?





[Modified by Sabastian, 10:33 PM 8/19/2002]

 

The 1x50' roll cost $23.95 from summit. It is Thermo-Tec. Thermo-Tec and DEI (Design Engineering Inc.) are the two main suppliers of thermal wrap. Their products can both be found on summit. Also try ww.designengineering.com As I said, the wrap was $24 plus $7 shipping,a few $ for the plumbing clamps, and like $3 for the ceramic paint from autozone. $6 in band-aids and anticeptic cream.

 

what good does this exactly do?

allow for better head dissapation? seems to me like it would acutally insulate the header more...

help me out.

 

[QUOTE]seems to me like it would acutally insulate the header more... [QUOTE]


exactly,the more heat that stays in the header the better.

 

Insulating the header more is a good thing. And yes, it does do that. The less heat escapes from the header, the faster the velocity of the exhaust gas, the less backpressure. Also, I could grab my header after like 3 minute of down time with the hood up. Also, it decrease underhood temps allowing my short ram to suck in slightly cooler air and not heating up the intake arm as much.

 

excellent - I'm gonna give it a shot when my header gets here.

 

any concerns about the headers/exhaust system getting too hot w/ this mod?

 

Its supposed to get hot, that way, all the other parts that SHOULD stay cool, do so. The hotter the exhaust gas, the faster its velocity....the physics behind this is something about pressure always wants to be at equilibrium, meaning high pressure always flows toward lower pressure and visa versa. However, here its not pressure, its heat.

 

you could think of it like this, we all know that the hotter a gas or liquid is the less dense it is (the further apart the molecules), so the easier they will move.

you can think of it (respectively) as how in a freezing river the slushy ice will move slower than a river that's flowing at 70°F.

with an engine, when you've got hotter air in the exhaust piping, the flow of exhaust will be much more efficient, therefore scavenging better. on the other hand if your piping lets heat escape on the way back, the worse the flow will be.

and yes gennady your right about the equilibrium aspect, it's the same as how a wing and lift/downforce works. (howstuffworks.com or scc mag )

thats the best i can explain it without getting my books and copying from them.
but maybe you can get the idea.


[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 9:58 AM 8/21/2002]


[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 9:58 AM 8/21/2002]

 

Yes, thank you, you can put it that way too.

 

I mean, yea, I understand the physics behind it all.

I'm just asking, are there any concerns about any possible damage to your header/exhaust/etc systems from too much exhaust heat.


i read something on the topic just last week about this from a diff forum, I quote:
----------

Read some technical articles on physical exhaust wrapping. It ruins your heat dissipation and in time, can melt your headers or pipe. If you want real heat defection, do ceramic coating on the inside of the pipe. It's way cleaner, works better, doesn't melt your exhaust and looks a lot better.

 

I used 1200 degree black ceramic exhaust manifold paint on mine prior to wrapping. I think it is a must for wrap long-gevity.

 

i dont believe your header will melt if its built good. most headers are built to withstand extreme levels of heat for long periods of time.


[Modified by carolinaACCORD, 10:25 AM 8/21/2002]