I'm new to Strut bars+sway bars??
i'm a little new at this area and i was wondering what exactly should i be looking for when i buy a strut bar, and sway bar.
I saw the megan racing front/rear strut bars for half the price of some greddy and neuspeed ones, is it the material or brand name??
Also i drive a Civic 2000 EX, and i heard that you can get a certain size sway bar or it will mess up your car(too big, too small) iduno?? =( someone guide this noob with some good information.
Much appreciated!!
I saw the megan racing front/rear strut bars for half the price of some greddy and neuspeed ones, is it the material or brand name??
Also i drive a Civic 2000 EX, and i heard that you can get a certain size sway bar or it will mess up your car(too big, too small) iduno?? =( someone guide this noob with some good information.
Much appreciated!!
It really depends on what kind of setup you're going for (springs & shocks? coilovers?)and what kind of driving you want to do (dd, autoX, road race, drag, etc.)
Search & research.
Search & research.
I do some canyon running, and DDing, and i'm most likely going for the Groundcontrol coils+ koni combo. But as for now i have eibachs prokit and tokico hps.
And to the second poster: why are strut bars not needed?
And to the second poster: why are strut bars not needed?
Usually on a DD you want a balanced car. This keeps it easy to drive but still performs when you want. You add a rear sway bar or switch to a bigger one if you have one already. This reduces the FWD tendency to understeer(go straight when you turn) Sway bars are far more effective than strut bars which are really a fine tuning part and pretty much unecessary on the street. It might make a tiny difference. Body flex doesnt matter if your suspension is not working well in the first place. wheels, tires, springs, shocks, and swaybars are more important.
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Strut Tower bars
-Passive suspension upgrade (Do not move with suspension)
-Strengthen the rigity of your car giving a more responsive chassis
-Mainly helpful if you have a stiffer suspension
Sway/Anti-roll/Anti-sway bars
-Active supension upgrade (Move with suspension)
-Connects one lower control arm to another by a bar that rotates and flexes, essentialy acting as a spring reducing body roll
-Larger Front = More responsive steering input and UNDERSTEER (Front of car has more weight so front bars will be bigger in most set-ups)
-Larger Rear = OVERSTEER
Basically for 96-00 civics:
Lower models come with no sway bars
EX (Si Canada) Comes with a front 22mm sway bar
Si (SiR Canada) Comes with a 26mm front and 13mm rear sway bar and a front upper strut tower bar
For example:
On a 96-00 Civic I would suggest starting off with a moderate sized rear sway bar (17mm or 19mm) and picking up a stock 22mm front sway bar and LCAs if you don't have one. This will give a fairly neutral set-up. As for stut tower bars, you get what you pay for. The more expensive brands will tend to fit better and keep their re-sale value.
-Passive suspension upgrade (Do not move with suspension)
-Strengthen the rigity of your car giving a more responsive chassis
-Mainly helpful if you have a stiffer suspension
Sway/Anti-roll/Anti-sway bars
-Active supension upgrade (Move with suspension)
-Connects one lower control arm to another by a bar that rotates and flexes, essentialy acting as a spring reducing body roll
-Larger Front = More responsive steering input and UNDERSTEER (Front of car has more weight so front bars will be bigger in most set-ups)
-Larger Rear = OVERSTEER
Basically for 96-00 civics:
Lower models come with no sway bars
EX (Si Canada) Comes with a front 22mm sway bar
Si (SiR Canada) Comes with a 26mm front and 13mm rear sway bar and a front upper strut tower bar
For example:
On a 96-00 Civic I would suggest starting off with a moderate sized rear sway bar (17mm or 19mm) and picking up a stock 22mm front sway bar and LCAs if you don't have one. This will give a fairly neutral set-up. As for stut tower bars, you get what you pay for. The more expensive brands will tend to fit better and keep their re-sale value.
Strut Tower bars
-Passive suspension upgrade (Do not move with suspension)
-Strengthen the rigity of your car giving a more responsive chassis
-Mainly helpful if you have a stiffer suspension
Sway/Anti-roll/Anti-sway bars
-Active supension upgrade (Move with suspension)
-Connects one lower control arm to another by a bar that rotates and flexes, essentialy acting as a spring reducing body roll
-Larger Front = More responsive steering input and UNDERSTEER (Front of car has more weight so front bars will be bigger in most set-ups)
-Larger Rear = OVERSTEER
Basically for 96-00 civics:
Lower models come with no sway bars
EX (Si Canada) Comes with a front 22mm sway bar
Si (SiR Canada) Comes with a 26mm front and 13mm rear sway bar and a front upper strut tower bar
For example:
On a 96-00 Civic I would suggest starting off with a moderate sized rear sway bar (17mm or 19mm) and picking up a stock 22mm front sway bar and LCAs if you don't have one. This will give a fairly neutral set-up. As for stut tower bars, you get what you pay for. The more expensive brands will tend to fit better and keep their re-sale value.
-Passive suspension upgrade (Do not move with suspension)
-Strengthen the rigity of your car giving a more responsive chassis
-Mainly helpful if you have a stiffer suspension
Sway/Anti-roll/Anti-sway bars
-Active supension upgrade (Move with suspension)
-Connects one lower control arm to another by a bar that rotates and flexes, essentialy acting as a spring reducing body roll
-Larger Front = More responsive steering input and UNDERSTEER (Front of car has more weight so front bars will be bigger in most set-ups)
-Larger Rear = OVERSTEER
Basically for 96-00 civics:
Lower models come with no sway bars
EX (Si Canada) Comes with a front 22mm sway bar
Si (SiR Canada) Comes with a 26mm front and 13mm rear sway bar and a front upper strut tower bar
For example:
On a 96-00 Civic I would suggest starting off with a moderate sized rear sway bar (17mm or 19mm) and picking up a stock 22mm front sway bar and LCAs if you don't have one. This will give a fairly neutral set-up. As for stut tower bars, you get what you pay for. The more expensive brands will tend to fit better and keep their re-sale value.
I just need someone to lead or kind of give the best suggestions on the 'do it right first time' choice. Money isn't the problem i just want to know what to buy exactly to get the best handling/reduced bodyroll with the swaybars.
There is no right and wrong answer, since it depends on the application. Some cars could benefit from lower spring rates and stiffer anti-roll bars, and some cars can benefit from the opposite.
What kind of brace. Subframe brace, yes. ASR makes probably the best one. Strengthens the subframe to reduce the swaybar tearing the mounts out. Other braces like lower arm braces, etc, I wouldnt waste money on at this point.
yea i was thinking about a asr subframe brace, but will that subframe brace have the size for a 17mm sway bar??
Last edited by chinkyx90; Feb 20, 2009 at 01:08 AM. Reason: info
The subframe brace will also act as a tie bar, I don't think that's been mentioned.
The sway bar itself will just bolt on to the subframe, so every sway bar will fit on that brace.
The sway bar itself will just bolt on to the subframe, so every sway bar will fit on that brace.
An EX front sway bar should bolt up to your car. The front LCA's are different between the base models compared to the Si and CTR.
Your rear LCA's already have a hole ready for a sway bar to bolt up to. I'd wither go with the Eibach system or do a nice upgrade on the ASR system for you.
My Si has the front 26mm and I upgraded the rear with a comptech brace and a CTR sway bar (22mm). It greatly improved handling overall and is nice for DD and autox.
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