civic 98 ex d16z6 speed :

well like the title says the engine seems strong up
until it gets up to 4000 rpm it looses power bad!
now it does have a engine light on, i have a ob2 scanner
and it came up with this:

ckp(CKF sensor no sysnal
&
IAT SENSOR 1 CHT HIGHT

now i looked them up and the ckp is the crank position sensor
and the IAT is intake air temp sensor.

do u guys think that thoes thing effect the power lost?
(if its a stupid question sorry) haha because im pretty sure it is
but seeing that the intake temp sensor is $130 buckz i wanna make sure that the problem will be fixed.

-thnx in advance

 

Maybe since ur running check engine lights. Your vtec is not turning on and it seems ur losing power. I could be wrong.

 

i thought eks came with the d16y8??

 

but dosent vtec kick in after 5000 rpm?

that what i said the first time i got the car..
maybe swap?

 

Not if you're running a CEL... a lot of CELs will cause it to go into limp mode, which will make it fall flat on it's face after 4-5000 rpm. Fix the CEL first.

I would start with the CKF error, because I don't believe the IAT will cause limp mode.

Actually, I would start with checking your ECU. Your 98 civic is supposed to have an OBD2 d16y8. If it's got an OBDI d16z6, then it needs to have the correct OBDI ECU for that car, and an OBD2a to OBD1 conversion harness. If it's running the stock ECU with no jumper harness, then you're going to throw some codes because there are sensors that the ECU expects to see that don't exist on an OBD1 engine.

 

Yep cpk will make vtec not kick in. And I think it will make it retard the timing after 4k because this is what's happening in my car.

 

do you gain the power back or is it from 4k all the way to redline.???????

 

ok will i know by just looking/reding the ecu that it is from a y8 or z6?



it happends all the way up to red line.

 

tell us what the ECU is... it should say something on it like P28, or P2P, or P05, or P72, or something like that. I'm not sure what they all are, but I know the P2P is for the 99-00 d16y8, and I'm sure someone else knows what's right for the z6.

 

if there is anything wrong with your car the very first thing you should do is fix your cels. The iat will effect how much fuel the ecu is sending into your cylinders if it is not working it is possible that is causing the problem. If you mess with other things before you fix what is throwing those codes you will probly just end up wasting time and money. It would seem to me like if he has the wrond ecu the cel would come on for much more than those 2 things. But there definetely right you need to figure out what ecu you have before you do anything. Once you figure out what ecu you have you can use this to figure out if you have continuity to the sensors http://hondaswap.com/reference-mater...pinouts-28667/, to get a diagram of your ecu pins you will need to know if it is obd1 or 2

 

ok we heres the info on the ecu so is it a y8 or z6?

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...214090138a.jpg

 

so is this the rite one for a z6??
enyone please?

 

The right ecu for a z6 is a p28

 

pk thanx but how do i know if is the one i got a p28?
is that lable on the ecu say it some where??

 

Your ECU says P2E-A02. This means it is for a 1996-1997 manual transmission D16Y7, which is a non-VTEC OBD2A ecu.

 

haha non vtec ecu on a vtec engine, yeah p28 is what you need. No wonder your engine falls on its face, no vtec!

 

haha o sh*t no wonder its running like crap wow..
that guy that did this swap is a dum azz..
how the hell do u not change..

well im off to find a p28 then..

thanx all you guys for the help!!!!

 

hey guys...

well i got a ecu (got it for 150 with jumper harness) and i swap it out
and the power lag when away! but.....now when i put the new ecu
and i started the car up, the car is now idleling at 1500 rpm and its
jumping (kinda like when the tps is bad).
enyone know wuts going on?