Is it possible or even worth removing the balancing shaft from my motor? If so who makes kits and how hard is it to remove all this? I know DSM's do this along with a ton of other vehicles. I'm not worried about vibration as I am with if this will mess up my motor if I do it. Also I am asking cause I am aboutto do a timing belt change in the next day or 2.


Thanks

Josh

 

You can just leave the belt off when you do the TB. There is a kit available out there, but you're going to have to search' for it. Also, to properly remove the balance shaft it is necessary to have the motor pulled.

I just recently took my balance shaft belt off, and I don't really like it. (4th gen)

the vibration doesn't feel too bad, but I have noticed that everything in the cabin rattles more. I'm going to put it back on next week or so. I don't like it. Some people don't care.

 

leaving the shaft in with the gear and all wont hurt anything? another forum site states removing will help HP with less rotating mass and lighter without. They also state that the motor didnt need removal? Im a little confused

 

it doesnt hurt a thing. the only way to properly remove them is to take the engine out of the car and take the block apart.

www.roskoracing.com sells an easy kit. It just requires knocking out the balancer shaft bearings then reinstalling them after turning the bearing enough to block the oil feeds. There are two freeze plugs with the kit which are pressed into the BS housings on the oil pump.

Kaizenspeed makes one as well but its a little more indepth and advanced install and is also 50 dollars more than Roskos.

 

do i need to remove the crank and all that? cause at that point it may not be worth the hassle? Although I could do a full rebuild of the bottom end too so? is that the extent or is it that it is easier to remove them with the motor out?

 

imo i would'nt worry about it. there is definatly a vibration when you take the belt off. the only advantage of pulling the shafts out of the motor would be weight reduction of maybe 8 or 10 pounds. i would try it w/o the belt see if the vibration bothers you. if it doesn't then maybe pull the engine down, spin the bearings and put it back together. i don't see how you could do it in the car. i don't think there is enough room to pull the shafts out of the block.

 

(...97ludedude beat me to it)

if you're looking to free hp all you have to do is remove the belt driving the shafts. don't worry about actually pulling the shafts out unless you already have the motor out of the car. the kits that you can buy allow you to remove the shafts (save around 8lbs off the front of the car) and increase oil pressure (by not having to oil the bearings for the shafts), but will not free up any extra horsepower over just pulling off the bs belt.

 

ok but if i did remove the motor does it require the removal of the crank or does it simply slide out once the the bearing is pressed out?

 

the balance shafts come out on their own. go to kaizenspeed's site and they have the install instructions for their kit if you want to see what is involved.

 

thank you i will check it out

 

yeah with the kaizenspeed kit i can't think of why the engine would need to be removed. as a matter of fact i think i did mine while the engine was in the car. the worse part will be pulling your oil pump off, if you can pull the pump without pulling the engine you're good to go

 

because with the KS kit, you have to drill and tap the block to insert a set screw. I would not want metal shavings all in my block.

 

where is the girdle located? Do i have to remove the crank shaft?

 

What about the Roskos kit?? Does it require drilling and tapping also?

 

i did mine with it in the car, there weren't any real metal shavings and you know my engine failure was not at all related to that.

and the main bearing bridge is located below the main bearing caps, its what the windage tray bolts to. so you have to take off the oil pan, take off the oil pick-up, take off the windage tray, and then you can pry off the main bearings to pry the main bearing bridge off. and then i'd recommend getting the plugs pressed in at the machinist, unless you have a press. Blake did his on the bench vice, but my vice didn't have enough ***, and i also cracked the main bridge trying to get them in. i do agree with Blake that you don't want the metal shavings in your engine, but for what its worth, i did mine with the engine in the car. just put plenty of oil on the tap and you should pull out most the metal shavings.

EDIT: no, you don't tap with the Rosko kit, but you have to pull the engine, remove the bearings and flip them over to plug the oil galleys. so 6 in one, half a dozen in the other, but IMO more work with the Rosko kit. But if you have your engine already apart, its no less quality, but it is less money. But for me, turning the bearings weren't and option. you have to make your own decision

 

Thank

 

When I was rebuilding my engine I used the kit from Kaizenspeed.
http://www.kaizenspeed.com/detail.sr...2&C=1&S=50&NM=
I had some vibration but that was more from the poly mounts and eg chasi. With Kazenspeed you don't have to turn the bearings, but you have to plug couple holes on the oil girdle by the main bearings. Car was amaizng made 210 whp and 163 ft/lbs of torque with type S pistons, Crower stage 2 cams and stock header!!!

 

pulling the whole motor, and removing the shafts is the only option I would recommend. You gain some HP, remove about 8lbs, and gain oil pressure by blocking off the oil passages to the shafts.

However, IF this is your daily driver, or a 'Nice' Prelude.. I wouldn't take the shafts off or take the belt off.

I personallly do not like the vibration in the cabin and I'm going to put the belt back on as soon as I can. Fawk the 3hp.




Note: I'm using Polyurethane motor mounts.. It vibrates too much. If it's a race car, go for it. I pick up chicks in my car.

 

pfft...the bitches love my vibrating seats :D

 

hahaha