Hello,

Im currently rebuilding a whole wire harness for the car from scratch. My car wouldnt start after I did a ton of work to it, and Im thinking somewhere I ripped some wires out when I pulled the dash out, so Ive decided I would just rebuild the whole harness Instead of looking for the tear in the wire (or wires).

Okay here is my questions.

1. Dealing with the A and B coolant switches. On the upper and lower radiator housings. Can you just bypass those switches, along with coolant fan timer relay box, and connect a manuel on off switch to the radiator fan, with out suffering any ECU issues.

2. Besides the main relay and where the ECU connects to the misc fuse boxes, is there anything else in the wiring harness that corrosponds with starting te car.

I have a tiny little thread on PP.com, and everyone is just reading, and no posting. I hope someone else can induce a little light on the subject here.

JIm

 

grounds will make a car not start

 

i am well aware, but that is not the question

 

as for #1 im pretty sure is doesn't cause any ECU problems to operate your radiator fan on a separate circuit. i replaced my rad fan with an aftermarket one and i simply wired it to a in dash switch. and i have no codes, or ecu problems. so youre probably ok to chop the wires to all that stuff and use a switch

 

I wouldn't even think about doing what you are doing without buying the Helms wiring manual.

 

"I wouldn't even think about doing what you are doing without buying the Helms wiring manual."

X2

 

I don't know about ludes, but most recent cars have two pairs of temp sensors.

1. Variable output - One runs the thermostat on the dash, while the other feeds the ECU the coolant temperature.

2. Switch output - It sounds like these are the ones you are talking about. Simple on/off switches that operate the cooling fans. One is the regular switch for the primary fan, while the second is an additional fan that ussually only comes on when the airconditioner is running. Typically, the first is around 185 and the second is 5-10 degrees higher. The ECU doesn't even know these exist. It only watches one of the variable output sensors.

You can wire them to a switch, but the fans are noisy and draw a bit of power. The sensors are pretty cheap and wiring is pretty basic for them. One goes directly to the primary fan, while the second goes in series through a set of contacts on the A/C system and then to the secondary fan.

What you are doing (overall) is certainly possible, but you definately need a wiring diagram. As you can see from the pile you pulled out, an onerous task lays before you.

 

I have 2 copies of the Helms, one for the H23a1, and the other one is PDA file for the H22.

Ive gone over the diagrams plenty of times.

There are 3-4 coolant related switches on the engine. 2 of them are the green colored prongs. I followed them in the car, and they all connect to that fan relay thing. The helms also says that they do connect and function to a hand ful of other relays that I no longer have as well. So when i was going over, Id like to save myself the trouble of running some more wire, and just ditch the relay box.

The other 2 switches connect to the ECU, Im running them.

So I take it there are no other relays to worry about besides the main relay.

Ive been reading the complete circute diagrams for everything in the car, and it looks like the circute to run the car only has to do with the ECU, main relay, misc fues boxes, and wires connecting them, plus the cars ignition.

I would like to rip all the wiring out completly and redo everything, but for right now, Ill be satisfied with just this.

Thanks

 

Question.

Im going over the distributor wiring on the wireharness itself, not in the helms.

For the CYL sensor, the Orange and white wires on the dizzy itself, there is a ground wire from the engine's main ground that doesnt seem to connect with the other wires, just wrapps itself around the orange and white wires. Im wondering what its purpose is.

 

crank sensor wires are shielded.

 

if you want a better way to control the fan, check out delta current controls:

www.dccontrol.com/catalog2008.htm

look at the fk35 kit for your needs. i have the wk35 kit which controls the fan and a water pump, and it's been fantastic.

basically, it has its own temp sensor and varies the voltage to the fan so you have automated variable fan speed. pretty slick.

 

So all that system does is just turn the fan on and off itself?

If that is the case, Ill opt to buy a 4 dollar toggle switch from auto zone, and spend the other hundred and fifty bucks on some much needed paint.

Thanks though

I understand now, to sheild them from interfereance of other wires.

THX

 

I think you were looking at the circuits page - look at the fan controls.

I uses a temperature sensor to vary the speed of the fan instead of just turning on/off. The normal fluctuation in temperature also causes a lot of fatigue in the radiator core and tanks. A relatively stable temperature might improve the life of a radiator as well.

I think that the price is a bit high - however, it appears to be well built. I am actually rather surprised that this has not been implemented by mfg's as they try to improve mileage.

 

Are there any alternatives for shielding the wires, besides running the -12v wires wrapped around.

Something like better insulation for the wires. Im going to assume the need for the -12v shield is to keep interferance from other distributor wires from posibly transmitting electircal impulses through there wires, and into the other dizzy wires.

 

correct. and be sure to use quality wiring to complete this project as well. Not stuff you buy from autozone, etc.

 

okay, Just looking for a few more imput thoughts here. I finally got a chance to finish the main wire harness. Which is a jumbled mess, but it should work.

Now I just cut the all the inside wires for that go into the ECU and am in the process of connecting all the wires from the engine to the wire harness.

My question I have is, if I just connect all the wires from the engine to the ECU, ground everything properly, run wires to the main relay, and to the ignition, the car should start up correct? There will be no speedo or other gauges working, but the car will be on.

This is probably what I'm going to end up doing. This is almost like brain surgery. But since Its more of a project car, and not a DD. I don't mind triggering everything manually.

I figure that once I can get the engine to crank over on a basic wire up. I will then be able to install my own custom gauges, IE. Oil pressure, my own Tach, speedo, heating gauges. Correct so far. I wish I had more time to play with this thing, but Ive got my hands full with other things.

 

So no one can add.

Okay, so last night I drew a diagram of what I think will work. But by all means this is a very simple wiring diagram, and contains, nothing other than what would make the engine turn on.

Ill have to scan and upload the pictures later today sometime, so you can add your opinion, but a simple overview is what I will go over now. Frankly I don't know what I'm really doing here anymore, and am just guessing as to the consequences of the out come.


1. Ive elimanated all wiring harnesses inside the cabin. There is nothing, nothing at all.

2. The only circutes I plan to run for the wiring is, fuel pump, main relay, ignition, ECU, and motor.

3. ECU will plug into all the engine parts, I will relocate the ignition and the main relay to the left side of the car, and it will be a custom circute board to start the car. There will be on off switches to switch on Positive power to all circutes, and the ground will always be connected to every thing.

4. There is no more SRS, and no more ABS. I do not know, with the ABS ECU disconnected how the brakes will function anymore, will the brake booster still function like desgined, and the only thing that will change is that the anti lock brakes are gone? Safer to connvert to a manual booster? IDK