Could an improperly sealed intake manifold gasket allow coolant to enter the head causing a milky oil cap? meaning if all the nuts werent torqued to spec. because my oil in my oil pan is clean but its a little milky under my valve cover and oil cap. headgasket had already been replaced and then replaced IM gasket.

 

No.

But it seems like a rather impossible situation anyway, because the oil in the cyl. head drains straight down into the pan. So if the oil in the head is contaminated, it will also be contaminated in the pan.

 

Im assuming the headgasket was leaking, thats why it was replaced? If so, did you clean everything out of the VC after you did the headgasket? If you did, id look to make sure your pvc system is working properly. Also do a compression and leak down to make sure the headgasket has properly sealed.

 

yeah everything was cleaned after the new gasket was installed but i was short and cash and had to re-use my stock head studs so i think they might have stretched and are causing a leak between the 2nd and 3rd cylinder. removed my spark plugs and there is oil on those 2 spark plugs. could i just replace the head studs and use the gasket that i replaced or should i just buy a completely new one?

 

Bummer. You have to buy a new head gasket. They are a one-time use kinda deal if you want to be sure that it will seal right. I doubt if you want to go through this for a 3rd time.

And many people have gotten away with re-using OEM head bolts (although it isn't recommended). It's doable, if you're sure to torque them enough, and in the proper sequence (very important). It sounds like your problem might actually be a warped cylinder head or block surface.

Here's the million dollar question: did you pop the head gasket because you overheated? If so, there's a good chance your cyl. head is warped, and it will keep leaking until you get it decked. My advice is to take it to a machine shop and have them check the surface with a straight-edge. They'll do this for free. If it needs to me milled flat, it'll probably cost ~$40. And hopefully your block isn't warped, because you don't want to pull that to get it milled. In that case you'd be better off swapping in a new (used) engine.

 

thats the thing my car didnt overheat when the headgasket went. i just noticed the milk shake under my oil cap and replaced the gasket asap. the oil was fine that was changed, no coolant in it so i was puzzled.

 

In that case, it might be time to invest in some ARP head studs to get some extra clamping force on the cyl. head. Dealing with blown head gaskets is a pita.