What would you do!?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Originally from OR. Stationed in VA.
If you had a stock H22 motor. Looking for good setups for all motor or turbo setups. Trying to get some ideas. Might keep mine if i get good ideas.
i would cam and tune...keep the all motor reliability but still leave u with more whp...but it really depends on how much u willing to spend and how many miles your motor has...
personally i like injen air intake with apexi exhaust, dc headers and obx high flow cat skunk 2 cams (stage one) if u run boost later switch to stage 2 or 3. And then go for msd plugs and wires. U should get a decent amount of power out of them. But u should also have the computer reflashed too
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If your pockets are deep and your willing to accept lesser reliability, build it and boost it.
If your on a small'ish budget, you could do as many have and boost the stock engine(in good condition) 5-6 PSI with a GOOD tune and end up in the 250whp neighborhood.
I did the latter for several years as a daily driver(no ill effects), and am now doing the former for more power.
If your on a small'ish budget, you could do as many have and boost the stock engine(in good condition) 5-6 PSI with a GOOD tune and end up in the 250whp neighborhood.
I did the latter for several years as a daily driver(no ill effects), and am now doing the former for more power.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 117
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From: Originally from OR. Stationed in VA.
Well my pockets arent deep but i save fast since i bank about 700 to my pocket every 2 weeks. thats after all bills so each month i have bout 1400 to spend.
I really hate these kinds of questions .. you should get a hammer to your head for asking this question. Your car, your business, no one elses. Do as you please, if you go N/A or Boost make sure you tune your car and it should last. (( End thread ))
Anyway, the only advice I can offer is figure out how much it will cost to build the engine right from the get-go...for which ever setup you eventually decide on.....and save twice that much. Don't start buying anything until you have the money saved up.
My philosophy is either do it right from the start or don't do it at all. I see this happen WAAAY too often. People try to mod their cars on a budget and end up with something they are not happy with because they have a hodge-podge of parts that don't work together properly.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 117
Likes: 0
From: Originally from OR. Stationed in VA.
Well to go all motor what should I do first? cam gears, intake, throttle body, headers, exhaust, intake manifold...is this good start? what exactly do and dont I need to do.
Well, for the simple fact of you not even knowing whether to go NA or FI is pretty vague. They are two COMPLETELY different setups. LOL
Anyway, the only advice I can offer is figure out how much it will cost to build the engine right from the get-go...for which ever setup you eventually decide on.....and save twice that much. Don't start buying anything until you have the money saved up.
My philosophy is either do it right from the start or don't do it at all. I see this happen WAAAY too often. People try to mod their cars on a budget and end up with something they are not happy with because they have a hodge-podge of parts that don't work together properly.
Anyway, the only advice I can offer is figure out how much it will cost to build the engine right from the get-go...for which ever setup you eventually decide on.....and save twice that much. Don't start buying anything until you have the money saved up.
My philosophy is either do it right from the start or don't do it at all. I see this happen WAAAY too often. People try to mod their cars on a budget and end up with something they are not happy with because they have a hodge-podge of parts that don't work together properly.
find a shop and spend your money there. You dont have a clue of what is up or down and a shop with experience can walk you through it when you buy parts through them.
in order for this internet helping to work properly, you have to understand WHY someone listed a certain part. Someone giving you a list of parts to buy isnt going to mean jack when you yourself have no idea if its good or not.
my advice:
find a reputable performance shop in the area.
in order for this internet helping to work properly, you have to understand WHY someone listed a certain part. Someone giving you a list of parts to buy isnt going to mean jack when you yourself have no idea if its good or not.
my advice:
find a reputable performance shop in the area.
If your avatar is an recent photo of your lude, I would first paint that white body kit to match the rest of the car. That'll make you look a lot less like a ricer.
Then I'd get a tune up: have the engine checked out with a compression test and a leakdown to show if it's even worth building up, NGK plugs & wires, new cap & rotor, new timing belt & water pump, new fuel filter, and flush tranny & coolant system.
Then I'd work on suspension/transmission: 5 lug conversion with new rotors & ceramic pads, lightweight rims, GOOD tires, Koni or KYB struts, Ground Control coilovers with custom rates, lightweight flywheel, and your choice of clutch.
As for performance: First get an eBay generic CAI w/ K&N filter, new Tri-Y H22 header, Magnaflow/Carsound High flow cat (2.5" in, 3.0" out), 3x18" resonator, custom 3" mandrel-bend exhaust going back to your choice of muffler.
If you still want to continue with an N/A setup, then go for cams, cam gears, higher compression pistons, bigger TB/IM (port matched), and then tune with your tuner's choice of software.
If you do a lot of the work yourself, and look for good deals on parts, you're probably looking at about $6000-$7000 for what I've mentioned.
By the way, what year is your car?
Then I'd get a tune up: have the engine checked out with a compression test and a leakdown to show if it's even worth building up, NGK plugs & wires, new cap & rotor, new timing belt & water pump, new fuel filter, and flush tranny & coolant system.
Then I'd work on suspension/transmission: 5 lug conversion with new rotors & ceramic pads, lightweight rims, GOOD tires, Koni or KYB struts, Ground Control coilovers with custom rates, lightweight flywheel, and your choice of clutch.
As for performance: First get an eBay generic CAI w/ K&N filter, new Tri-Y H22 header, Magnaflow/Carsound High flow cat (2.5" in, 3.0" out), 3x18" resonator, custom 3" mandrel-bend exhaust going back to your choice of muffler.
If you still want to continue with an N/A setup, then go for cams, cam gears, higher compression pistons, bigger TB/IM (port matched), and then tune with your tuner's choice of software.
If you do a lot of the work yourself, and look for good deals on parts, you're probably looking at about $6000-$7000 for what I've mentioned.
By the way, what year is your car?
Last edited by Kronn 98SH; Feb 8, 2009 at 10:02 AM.
If your avatar is an recent photo of your lude, I would first paint that white body kit to match the rest of the car. That'll make you look a lot less like a ricer.
Then I'd get a tune up: have the engine checked out with a compression test and a leakdown to show if it's even worth building up, NGK plugs & wires, new cap & rotor, new timing belt & water pump, new fuel filter, and flush tranny & coolant system.
Then I'd work on suspension/transmission: 5 lug conversion with new rotors & ceramic pads, lightweight rims, GOOD tires, Koni or KYB struts, Ground Control coilovers with custom rates, lightweight flywheel, and your choice of clutch.
As for performance: First get an eBay generic CAI w/ K&N filter, new Tri-Y H22 header, Magnaflow/Carsound High flow cat (2.5" in, 3.0" out), 3x18" resonator, custom 3" mandrel-bend exhaust going back to your choice of muffler.
If you still want to continue with an N/A setup, then go for cams, cam gears, higher compression pistons, bigger TB/IM (port matched), and then tune with your tuner's choice of software.
If you do a lot of the work yourself, and look for good deals on parts, you're probably looking at about $6000-$7000 for what I've mentioned.
By the way, what year is your car?
Then I'd get a tune up: have the engine checked out with a compression test and a leakdown to show if it's even worth building up, NGK plugs & wires, new cap & rotor, new timing belt & water pump, new fuel filter, and flush tranny & coolant system.
Then I'd work on suspension/transmission: 5 lug conversion with new rotors & ceramic pads, lightweight rims, GOOD tires, Koni or KYB struts, Ground Control coilovers with custom rates, lightweight flywheel, and your choice of clutch.
As for performance: First get an eBay generic CAI w/ K&N filter, new Tri-Y H22 header, Magnaflow/Carsound High flow cat (2.5" in, 3.0" out), 3x18" resonator, custom 3" mandrel-bend exhaust going back to your choice of muffler.
If you still want to continue with an N/A setup, then go for cams, cam gears, higher compression pistons, bigger TB/IM (port matched), and then tune with your tuner's choice of software.
If you do a lot of the work yourself, and look for good deals on parts, you're probably looking at about $6000-$7000 for what I've mentioned.
By the way, what year is your car?


