Hey integra section...I'm swapping a motor into my car and decided to take my ABS unit out because I'm doing a mild wire tuck. It's for a 94 integra

Does anyone know of any write ups or tips?

A buddy of mine gave me his 40/40 prop valve from a DA already.

Thankkss

 

Not to knock your future endeavor/goal but...I wouldn't remove ABS...bad idea imo, especially with such a light car. Just re-fit it to the firewall or sumthin.

 

thing is, I don't know if my ABS works properly right now...that's kinda why I wanna take it out. It's pretty old...over 200k on it

 

i get the "clean" lok but seriously abs can save your car. i would advise against it. i have a 95 gsr with abs and a 96 with out and the stopping of the gsr is amazing compared to the ls. the panic stops are controlled and smooth and predictable while the ls, not so great... your car... i say just make sure you have up to date insurance so when you plow into the back of someone you'll be covered.

 

But with the ABS, I had the ABS light on for a while...then we did the 4x114.3 conversion and cut the ABS lines. Would it still work? But...I can just drive not so close to people and be a safe driver oh, and now the ABS light is off

 

Man..why did you cut your abs lines in the first place?

Common sense would tell you that obviously abs will not be working anymore if the lines for it are cut GL with your semi tuck

 

Well, it was with my buddies and the only way to get my new brake lines in was to do that. My ABS actually didn't work, so we just cut the lines to get it out of the way

 

I had a broken Abs motor and most of the lines had corroded so i removed it rather than dumping money into it to fix it. My car stops faster now. Why? because along with removing my abs i upgraded my brake lines, fluid, rotors, pads and most importantly TIRES. If you go a little further in those areas you wouldnt be putting yourself in any danger. If your cheap and you dont want to waste the money then dont be a dumbass. As far as the removal, you have the prop valve so just bend and flare your own hardlines like i did for maybe 30 bucks for all 4 lines or just get the rs integra parts. Your choice. GL

 

search maybe? This has been covered a gazillion times.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/brake-boosters-master-cylinders-what-fits-what-doesnt-abs-removal-%2Apictures%2A-1160671/

search the Integra forum for ABS Removal in the thread title for more results.

 

Removing ABS is not a safety issue.
Some cars actually stop worse (further) with ABS because the system is a crap design. I've yet to drive a car with ABS that has had impressive brakes.

 

The only way that you would stop quicker without ABS is if you locked up the tires on DRY pavement, thus flat-spotting them, and also removing all steering control.

The main point of ABS is not to stop the car faster, but to help you maintain control in a panic situation by helping the tires maintain traction. All too often when you suddenly have to avoid something, there is panic braking coupled with quick swerving of the steering wheel. If the tires lose traction, you're steering control is GONE and you can do nothing but slide.

In wet/slippery situations, you WILL stop quicker with ABS than if you locked up the tires. If the tires lock up when slippery, you're going to slide much farther than if the tires maintained traction.

There are other points of discussion - like early ABS systems on light trucks that had it on the rear wheels only. That was pretty much pointless and could indeed make the truck take longer to stop, again particularly in slippery or low-traction situations. But that can be saved for another thread.

 

This is the route I went. After I changed to 4x114.3, I got new pads and rotors, fluid, goodridge stainless steel brake lines and new tires. I'll pm you for more info.

PatrickGSR94/G2 Racer- I kept searching, but this HT search engine isn't that great anymore. But thanks for all the info about the ABS and its uses, definitely helpful. But why did honda make cars with ABS and some without? If ABS is supposed to help with maintaining control, why didn't they put them in all cars?

 

Well in the 90's when it was just becoming common, usually the base model cars did not come with it. Now pretty much all cars do, just like airbags. Other than that, the only other Honda that didn't have it was some of the earlier ITR's, since they were a track-oriented car, and many drivers feel they can maintain better braking control and increase performance by "feathering" the brakes while on the race track, rather than have some ABS computer intervene at inopportune moments.

As for the search, it hasn't been cataloging posts in the last few weeks, but before that it works pretty well. If you type in ABS Removal, searching titles in the Integra forum, you get LOTS of results.

 

i took the ABS out of my 94 integra...easy.

pull the entire abs setup out....ditch it. pull the front lines off the prop valve and ditch them too. ditch the stock prop valve, replace it with the 40/40 valve...the DA one will work fine, just the mounting brackets wont mount up to the firewall...thats ok because the 4 brake lines that go to it will hold it up. all you need to do is use front lines from an eg hatch from the prop valve to the wheel wells, and from the prop valve to the master cylinder... the feed line from the prop valve to the master cylinder will have to be reworked though...the fitting on the ABS line is larger and needs cut off, and put onto the non-abs EG line. (if you plan on keeping the stock master cylinder, which i did) not a big deal, just go rent a flare tool from your local auto parts store, cut the old fitting off, put the new fitting on, and flare it...thats all you need to do the damn thing

 

Replied to your PM.. Like others stated it is easy.. but take your time and do it right the first time. Good Luck

 

Typically an ABS removal after the 3rd generation isn't the best idea. Any ABS after 3rd generation have been reworked to work smoothly. If you are dead set on it get a 4040 prop valve typically used in rear disc conversions, and just bend your own lines, add fittings and flares. Its fairly simple. Search, there has been tons of ABS delete threads.

 

I know the point of ABS, I still don't like it.
I've removed ABS from all my modified vehicles that had it. Those being a lifted Jeep (ABS and rock crawling is not fun) and my current Integra, all my other vehicles did not have ABS or were stock.

 

Anyone know how good the ABS is on a 2 teg? Is it worth keeping? I've heard it's not the greatest design.

 

Thanks for all the info and tips guys. Greatly appreciated. Will keep you up to date.

On a brighter note, here is the car that all the work is going to be on

 

Clean

 

I love to see someone else with a twin loop, I love mine and am in the process of removing my ABS as well. Good luck with your project.

 

the abs is coming off of my car as well. the abs light came on the other day, and im not about to spend money of fixing it when i already wanted to get rid of it. i have a 40/40 prop valve, and i am planning on bending my own hardlines so i can route them where i want to. i plan on doing a writeup on it for my local forum.

as far as saying its more dangerous not having it, i agree it can be. but with upgraded brakes, and mainly, good tires, it shouldnt be that much of a difference

 

Just be sure you're experienced in handling panic-stop situations on slippery surfaces. Go to en empty parking lot when it's raining and practice braking hard to fine the threshold, and remember to pump the pedal as fast as possible if there is no ABS.

Gotta stay safe on the streets with all the idiot drivers around everywhere.

 

I removed the complete ABS system off my DC2 and don't regret it at all.
I also did a 5 lug conversion at the same time and the brakes are awesome!

I replaced all the front lines, master cylinder and booster off of an RS non-abs integra.
I also removed all the wiring, computer etc from inside the car/under the dash.

I have tons of pics throughout the removal.. if anyone wants to see them I can upload some.

 

some before pics:







Installing the DC - RS non-abs master cylinder/booster/proportioning valve/front hardlines:
































any questions feel free to ask..
I did the removal during a complete rebuild/wire tuck/color change so it was pretty easy actually ..

reassembled: