Doing the 50 paint job and have a question
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From: a fuzzy happy place, USA
before anyone hounds me about the 50 paint job know that i'm a single dad and on a very tight budget when it comes to any mods to my car so if you have anything negative to say save yourself the time and trouble and post elsewhere.
I have a 95 Milano hatch that is now ***** pink with flaking clear coat over most of the car.
I will be spraying the car with rustoleum top coat acrylic enamel oil based paint from homedepot/lowes.
I have some SmartClear brand polyurethane clear coat (about a full gallon) left over from a previous paint job. Will i be able to spray this clear coat over the rustoleum base or will it yellow because it's an acrylic enamel base and a polyurethane clear coat? Or will it give it a nice protective glossy shine?
I have a 95 Milano hatch that is now ***** pink with flaking clear coat over most of the car.
I will be spraying the car with rustoleum top coat acrylic enamel oil based paint from homedepot/lowes.
I have some SmartClear brand polyurethane clear coat (about a full gallon) left over from a previous paint job. Will i be able to spray this clear coat over the rustoleum base or will it yellow because it's an acrylic enamel base and a polyurethane clear coat? Or will it give it a nice protective glossy shine?
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From: a fuzzy happy place, USA
i guess that would work but i'd rather have an answer from someone that knows about paints. Just because it does not yellow immediaty does not mean it won't yellow in the sunlight over time.
I don't have the time to paint a panel and put it out in the weather for 3 months to see what might happen
I don't have the time to paint a panel and put it out in the weather for 3 months to see what might happen
Pretty sure you will want to use like types of paint just to be safe. Enamel with enamel poly wity poly and so on. Most of my experiences with using different paints have led to one or the other carzing (wrinkling.) I could be wrong but do you want to have to take all of it off if im right?
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From: a fuzzy happy place, USA
still waiting on someone whos knowledgeabe on paints paints to chime in.
I'm away that the rustoleum is an oil base acrylic enamel and the clear coat is a polyurethane.
I'm away that the rustoleum is an oil base acrylic enamel and the clear coat is a polyurethane.
"waiting on someone whos knowledgeabe on paints to chime in." Isn't going to help you much because anyone with some brians about auto paint wouldn't touch a car with rustoleum
yes. like i stated in the $50pj thread, try it on a spare part off a car. at least to see if it will stick/bubble.
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From: a fuzzy happy place, USA
you obiously don't know the answer so your posts on topics with no previous knowledge on the subejct are a waste of my time (and others) to read
throw yourself off of a bridge, read the entire thread before you post. people like you are the reason this site is commonly refered to as "hater-tech"
you obiously don't know the answer so your posts on topics with no previous knowledge on the subejct are a waste of my time (and others) to read
you obiously don't know the answer so your posts on topics with no previous knowledge on the subejct are a waste of my time (and others) to read
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From: a fuzzy happy place, USA
Thank you for doing the testing for me! Now you have made yourself a valid participant in this thread!
Sorry to bust your ***** over it so quickly but as said before i'm on a very tight budget right now. I don't appreciate the typical smart *** H_T comments of "it's not going to work because a freind of a friend said so or i don't THINK it will work.
Whether this $50 paint lasts for 5 years or 2 years i'll worry about repainting it at that time. In 2 years my son will be almost 3 and can run around the yard while i do body work/prep then spray after he goes to bed. I will probably have more funding to spend 400-500 on primer,base,clearcoat at that time. Until then i need to something quick and cheap.
Until then 50 bucks is as much as i can spend.
Sorry to bust your ***** over it so quickly but as said before i'm on a very tight budget right now. I don't appreciate the typical smart *** H_T comments of "it's not going to work because a freind of a friend said so or i don't THINK it will work.
Whether this $50 paint lasts for 5 years or 2 years i'll worry about repainting it at that time. In 2 years my son will be almost 3 and can run around the yard while i do body work/prep then spray after he goes to bed. I will probably have more funding to spend 400-500 on primer,base,clearcoat at that time. Until then i need to something quick and cheap.
Until then 50 bucks is as much as i can spend.
You can do a professional job with a spray can, no overspray or runs, and def no orange peel, and you'll want to do it up real nice. It's gonna be difficult not to get crows feet if you can't bake your paint job though. Heat causes metal to expand which stretches the paint and you end up with checking (crows feet), so you may need a garage and some heat lamps for while it's drying. I don't know anything about the mopar site you mentioned - but I worked in a paint and body shop.
Maaco would be best if you don't want to put the time into this - as it is a time consuming project.
You'll need to go over the areas you want to paint with a petrol based cleaner - like brake cleaner - to remove any waxes and finishes, thats the stuff that causes orange peel.
Then you'll want to prep the surface so the paint will stick by sanding. You'll want to do several coats - sanding after each one so the paint sticks and is uniform all the way through.
The trick is to tape and tuck and cover everything that needs it, remove any gums/adhesives that hold on decals (you can use break cleaner or any gum remover) (yes you should remove decals/emblems) Hold the can back about 3 feet or so and spray in wide even strokes, all the way past the end. Don't worry about overlapping too much as you'll sand that down to be even when you're done painting.
As long as the spray is a fine mist and never focused on one area too long - you won't get runs. Overspray will always happen if you don't cover what you don't want painted.
Be careful when sanding - use fine grit on primer and use the finest grit on the color - or you'll end up having scratch ridges in your paint job. Also don't sand with your hands unless you absolutely have to. Use a sanding block.
Once you are finished with all the prepping, cleaning, sanding, primer coats, sanding, more primer coats, sanding, color coats, and color sanding (With water) - then you'll be ready to buff
It'll be well worth it.
(yes in the shop we used real paint guns - but when my mom cracked her bumper and couldn't afford to take it in - I redid a new one for her with a can of spray paint for less than 60 (55 for the bumper itself from a junk yard) and it was a rental car - the owner never noticed the difference)
Edit: Forgot to mention - never spray paint a car in high traffic or high wind areas. Always try to use a garage or an area closed off to winds and other moving objects. It would really suck if you had to sand dirt out of your paint job
Maaco would be best if you don't want to put the time into this - as it is a time consuming project.
You'll need to go over the areas you want to paint with a petrol based cleaner - like brake cleaner - to remove any waxes and finishes, thats the stuff that causes orange peel.
Then you'll want to prep the surface so the paint will stick by sanding. You'll want to do several coats - sanding after each one so the paint sticks and is uniform all the way through.
The trick is to tape and tuck and cover everything that needs it, remove any gums/adhesives that hold on decals (you can use break cleaner or any gum remover) (yes you should remove decals/emblems) Hold the can back about 3 feet or so and spray in wide even strokes, all the way past the end. Don't worry about overlapping too much as you'll sand that down to be even when you're done painting.
As long as the spray is a fine mist and never focused on one area too long - you won't get runs. Overspray will always happen if you don't cover what you don't want painted.
Be careful when sanding - use fine grit on primer and use the finest grit on the color - or you'll end up having scratch ridges in your paint job. Also don't sand with your hands unless you absolutely have to. Use a sanding block.
Once you are finished with all the prepping, cleaning, sanding, primer coats, sanding, more primer coats, sanding, color coats, and color sanding (With water) - then you'll be ready to buff
It'll be well worth it.(yes in the shop we used real paint guns - but when my mom cracked her bumper and couldn't afford to take it in - I redid a new one for her with a can of spray paint for less than 60 (55 for the bumper itself from a junk yard) and it was a rental car - the owner never noticed the difference)
Edit: Forgot to mention - never spray paint a car in high traffic or high wind areas. Always try to use a garage or an area closed off to winds and other moving objects. It would really suck if you had to sand dirt out of your paint job
Last edited by Aixia; Feb 3, 2009 at 02:48 PM. Reason: see Edit:
I can respect that.
Check this link out. If you have some supplys this stuff is in or near that price range.
also i think you might be happer with the results.
Just an idea
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GLOSS...1%7C240%3A1318
Check this link out. If you have some supplys this stuff is in or near that price range.
also i think you might be happer with the results.
Just an idea
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GLOSS...1%7C240%3A1318
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