Hello people,
Got couple of questions about satin paint job am gonna be doing on my eg civic, the paint i was thinkin was satin black with some gold or silver flakes, and after wet sandin the paint with 600 grit is it better to premier or just spray on top of the sanded paint, btw am not gonna be using rattle cans gona be using spray gun with 2.5hp compressor and what else i would need eg hardner, clear, thinner etc and how much, amer

 

A lot of paint companies now have a satin clear. You just apply your base coat like normal, and then apply the satin clear. There is still wet sanding involved and you are still able to wax it, it just doesnt have as much shine as gloss. And it also is less likely to scratch as easy, say if you were to rub up against it and it leaves the smudges and streaks. But whatever you do, if you are sprayin with a small compressor like what you are talking about, i would recommend getting a water trap. You def dnt want water spots in a satin paint job. It will stand out worse than if it were glossy. You can spray over the sanded down paint, but i would recommend primer. And very generously wipe the whole car down a few times with wax and grease remover. Good luck bro



........... i would recommend sherwinn williams. Thats who i go through, and they will be able to tell everything you will need hardener, reducer, accelerator, ect.

 

i know about the shine and all i achually want it to be abit dull, this is going to be my first paint job i don't want it to mess up, i am quite good with spray cans but dont wanna use them now, want to do something different, i have heard its really hard to take care of satin finish paints, and i was thinking of putting a little bit of flatining aswell, btw i am gonna be taking all the body parts off and do them one by one, and then the rest of the body, Amer

 

if you dont need to spray primer, than dont. Use SEALER. If you dont have any bodywork that was done and has exposed bodyfiller than theres no need to use primer. If you just sanded your car down with 600 and are gonna spray it. Use any 2k urethane sealer, sealer will make your color go down alot easier, smoother and more consistent. Sealer makes your spraying surface the same color all around the car so you dont have variants in color shade and paint build up.

 

i will premier, i might use 2pack or aresol, and theres a little bit of bodywork which needs sorting out aswell, but before i do anything wanted to make sure what will be needed and doing to do it properly,
so here the step by step i will be doing,

wet sand the current paint with 600grit,
sort all the bodywork,
2 coats of premier, and wetsand again with 800 grit,
then 3 coats of satin, and 2 coats of satin clear (sanding???),
and after its all done wipe it down with wax or greese remover,

is this step by step fine?

btw do i have to wet sand the base coats in between or shall i just leave it.

Amer

 

went to get some paint today,
bought 4 litres of satin black, 10 itres of thinner, and 5 litres of 2pack white premier,

just before i start doing anything, can anyone tell me what mixture would be good, and what would be the best step by step, there are some small dents which i will sort out before, would be great if someone could explain more, it would realy be helpfull, Amer

 

is it really called PREMIER over there,or are you just not learning that its called PRIMER.


READ:

https://honda-tech.com/forums/paint-body-84/everything-you-need-know-about-autobody-repair-1962364/


If your going to primer the entire car, you need to use a lower grit, 320 minimum for primer. Primer is a thick filler that needs a larger surface area crevice to adhere too. You need to use a clenaer/degreaser BEFORE you start sanding on the car.You also need to sort out and DO the bodywork BEFORE YOU PRIME THE CAR. read the tutorial on bodywork, do the bodywork. then prime the car. Block everything. IF you use an AEROSOL primer, your gonna screw yourself. that stuff is crap, no matter if its a well known name like UPOL or not, the proper cleaners to clean a car before laying sealer and basecoat will eat right through aerosol primer resulting in you having to strip it off. If it doesnt, your using the wrong cleaners. Once you lay your PRIMER.block the car with 4-600 than wetsand with a higher grit. youll be there all damn day if you use 800 grit to sand a 2k urethane primer, which is what you should be using, that or an epoxy primer. no use our cleaner to prep the surface. You need to lay sealer over primer. it will help to ensure that the primer does not absorb any of the basecoat and it will give you a consistent surface to spray over so no differentiating in color shade happen. Do not wetsand in beetween basecoats unless you just have mass amount of dirt in it. Sanding in beetween basecoats will cause your color to look grainy and distorted. If you have alot of dirt. Lay on the clearcoat and let it cover it up, if you have a run, well youll just have to get it out later on.


If the paint cans arent telling you the mixture, than you need to call the manufacturer of the paint or go back to where you got it from. It should be right on the back of the can telling you. If its a straight basecoat, and you have reducer, the norm is 1:1 . For your clear it can either be 3:1/ 4:1 or depending on the quality and brand of the clear a multitude of other mix ratios like 4:1:1. It all depends on the manufacturers specs.

 

I guess im not needed here. (IMPATIENT) knows his **** - thumbs up

 

[quote=IMPATIENT;37219704]is it really called PREMIER over there,or are you just not learning that its called PRIMER. quote]



its called primer, my spelling mistake,
btw i am not going to be using aresol primer, am gonna be using 2pack i think its just a different name for 2k urethane primer, but dont mind me asking is reducer same as thinner, as i don't really understand american english or pharses,

so what you basically said is,
clean the car with degreaser/cleaner,
then sort the bodywork, sand the entire car with 400 grit,
then clean again, then 2 or 3 coats of 2k urethane primer then sand it down with 320 to 600grit (wet or dry) and then use sealer on top of it,
2/3 coats of satin black,
and about clearcoat i can't really get clear coats for satin black,
but incase i can't find it but what would be the best thing to do, or if i go for a different colour instead of satin like metallic silverlake blue would i have to do the same like preping etc, Amer

 

1.) do NOT prime the whole car. Fix the areas that need to be fixed (Body work/bondo, etc.), then prime JUST THOSE AREAS.

2.) i personally 220 the area that needs to be primed, then block dry with 240, re-guide coat, block again with 240, re-guide coat, then block with 600 wet, re-guide coat, and wetsand (in circles) with 800

3.) It'll be easier to then sand the rest of the car with 400 and seal ALL of it (especially if you're changing colors on it).

4.) You spray your base coat (the satin black), then you buy (or should already HAVE) your satin/flat/semigloss clear coat. It will NOT be shiny, its most commonly called Matte Finish Clear here in the states. Not sure about over there. If you're going to just put down the black base coat, with NO clear what-so-ever over it, you need to activate the base. Which is adding hardener to it, and it will not be anywhere near as durable as a matte finish clear.

good luck to you.

 

I would personally high build (primer) the whole car and block it. This will let you know if you missed a dent and what not.

 

i couldnt find any satin clear in uk, but i have achually sourced one on american ebay, which is hot rod black satin clear in a gallon kit, do you think it would be fine for the paint i am using, Amer