I'm thinking of doing a rear disc swap......
Considering a rear disc conversion on my 95 EX, what would be the est. cost and what parts would be the best fit. I heard the master cylinder on the EX is roughly the same as a 99 Si, is this true?
Thanks for any input!!
Thanks for any input!!
I did one a few years back on my coupe. if i remember, the parts alone cost me $200. as long as you get the correct civic ones or integra ones, it's pretty much a bolt-on.
i wouldn't worry too much about the master cylinder, but you may want to consider changing out your proportioning valve for one that is made for a car with rear discs (ie: EG Si hatchback prop valves)
i wouldn't worry too much about the master cylinder, but you may want to consider changing out your proportioning valve for one that is made for a car with rear discs (ie: EG Si hatchback prop valves)
I just did this on my Sol.
Bought front hubs - rear discs - prop vavle - ebrake lines - 15/16th mc
That cost me $300
Then I bought new stainless lines because mine were all corroded to hell
that was $100
Then I had to buy new bushings because most of mine were shot, that alone was $150
Then you have to look at pads, rotors, and possibly new calipers because they sieze up if they sit out for extended periods of time.
Its a HUGE pita, best buy alot of PB and some replacement bolts from honda because ***** gonna break lol
Bought front hubs - rear discs - prop vavle - ebrake lines - 15/16th mc
That cost me $300
Then I bought new stainless lines because mine were all corroded to hell
that was $100
Then I had to buy new bushings because most of mine were shot, that alone was $150
Then you have to look at pads, rotors, and possibly new calipers because they sieze up if they sit out for extended periods of time.
Its a HUGE pita, best buy alot of PB and some replacement bolts from honda because ***** gonna break lol
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
OP: You can find rear disks at a junkyard easily. Find a 94-01 integra or 92-95 civic with ABS or 92-95 Si or 99-00Si or Del Sol VTEC (Del Sol Si's and 92-95civic Si's have the rear disk, but no big front brakes). Take the front and rear brakes so you have the larger diameter fronts as well. If it's a Del sol or EM1 you took the **** from, you can get the proportioning valve as well. If it's a Del Sol VTEC or EM1, you can take the master cylinder.
My friend got his complete 4 wheel setup from a junkyard for $75. I once found a 5 lug at a junkyard for $350 with CW CTR wheels.
Go to a junkyard and pick out your own ****. There are tons of rear disks just lying at junkyards.
You will need the E-brake cables from a 92-95civic with rear disk or 94-01 integra.
If you get a front setup from a 96-00 civic, you will need an alignment the same day.
Originally Posted by B serious
(Del Sol Si's and 92-95civic Si's have the rear disk, but no big front brakes)
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Do you have any idea how hard it is to find an Si shell in a junkyard? I can honestly say of all the junkyards i've been in during the last 5 years I have yet to see even 1. '94 - '01 integra's should be reasonably common though, and '92 - '95 EX sedans show up occasionally.
the '94 Si hatches with optional ABS also have the larger front brakes, all other years, and the '94 non abs Sis have the small front brakes though.
the '94 Si hatches with optional ABS also have the larger front brakes, all other years, and the '94 non abs Sis have the small front brakes though.
The MC and Prop valve arnt needed. Iv had rear disc's on my car for 2 years now, and they work perfect. I have integra rear setup, with the integra ebrake cable, on a 99 hatch. Works perfect no problems what so ever. No uneven wear from front to back, all corners wear even.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
The MC and prop valve aren't nessecary...but you should have them to make the most of the rear disk. If you're using them just to hard park...don't even bother buying the prop valve. Brake feel is a lot better with the right MC, however.
Read fluid dynamics. With larger wheel piston area, you want to have a larger MC piston area.
Read fluid dynamics. With larger wheel piston area, you want to have a larger MC piston area.
The MC and Prop valve arnt needed. Iv had rear disc's on my car for 2 years now, and they work perfect. I have integra rear setup, with the integra ebrake cable, on a 99 hatch. Works perfect no problems what so ever. No uneven wear from front to back, all corners wear even.
Do you have any idea how hard it is to find an Si shell in a junkyard? I can honestly say of all the junkyards i've been in during the last 5 years I have yet to see even 1. '94 - '01 integra's should be reasonably common though, and '92 - '95 EX sedans show up occasionally.
The MC and prop valve aren't nessecary...but you should have them to make the most of the rear disk. If you're using them just to hard park...don't even bother buying the prop valve. Brake feel is a lot better with the right MC, however.
Read fluid dynamics. With larger wheel piston area, you want to have a larger MC piston area.
Read fluid dynamics. With larger wheel piston area, you want to have a larger MC piston area.
Actually the other guy is correct. 95 si civics w/ rear dics come with a 3030 prop vlave just like a non-si civic. You only need a 4040 and a MC if you increase the size of the front rotors. There is no increase in wheel piston area when going from drum to rear disc.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
I'm pretty sure that the area of a drum wheel cylinder piston is smaller than that of a caliper piston.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
The prop valve wasn't what I was talking about. I said the MC would make the brakes feel better since the larger MC would be less touchy with the larger rear piston area.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
I know.
But the reason I suggested the larger MC is because the rear brake pistons are larger.
But the reason I suggested the larger MC is because the rear brake pistons are larger.
well my friend is selling his 93 Si shell. PERFECT condition. It was stolen and COMPLETELY stripped. i mean NOTHING inside. no seats, no dash, no nada.
and sorry. didnt know how hard it was to find a shell. since im not really into EGs
and sorry. didnt know how hard it was to find a shell. since im not really into EGs
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Either way...why would you buy a shell for just the brakes?
Okay, I'm going to pipe in now...
...The 92-95 Civic Si are EXs!!!! The only difference is that they were made and sold in Canada. Well, that and they have daytime running lights as required by Canadian Automotive laws.
Anywho, you have a 95 EX, that means if no one stole your MC you should have a 7/8" stock.
If you have the extra money for it, replace the MC with a 15/16" from an older 91 prelude Si, 90-91 EX sedan civic, or 90+ Integra (not the type R). Also if you're going to do that, replace the proportioning valve to the integra 4040. (On a side note, make sure you have some tamper proof torx bits handy to swap the mounting brackets for the P valve from your stock 3040 to the integra 4040 and the brackets are slightly different.)
I did the swap 2 years ago and ran it with the stock MC and stock P valve for a while. It was okay, but the pedal didn't have the feel it once did. So I upgraded to the 15/16" MC and 4040 P valve. It made a dramatic difference.
You could also upgrade to the 1" MC BUT you would also have to replace the brake booster as well. That being said, I think that the 15/16" MC is just fine. Not too soft, not too hard. This might be excessive unless you also plan to upgrade the fronts to EK knuckles and brakes.
For the swap:
I suggest getting the rear trailing arm assemblies with E-BRAKE cable ATTACHED from 92-95 Civic 4dr w/disc (just remove the ABS sensors) or the 94-01 integra w/disc.
While you have them off the car, REPLACE the TA bushings, rotors, brake lines and pads. Inspect the wheel bearings and rebuild the calipers.
This swap is basically a "bling" factor when comparing cost per increase in braking ability. If you are serious about obtaining greater braking ability you should be looking into bis brake kits.
It will cost more than $200 if you do it right.
T arms: $100 at the cheapest, if you're lucky.
Rotors: 80
Pads: 40
TA bushings: 80
Lines: 20
Rebulid kits: 10 each
So right there it's 330. Good luck and let me know if you have ant questions!
...The 92-95 Civic Si are EXs!!!! The only difference is that they were made and sold in Canada. Well, that and they have daytime running lights as required by Canadian Automotive laws.
Anywho, you have a 95 EX, that means if no one stole your MC you should have a 7/8" stock.
If you have the extra money for it, replace the MC with a 15/16" from an older 91 prelude Si, 90-91 EX sedan civic, or 90+ Integra (not the type R). Also if you're going to do that, replace the proportioning valve to the integra 4040. (On a side note, make sure you have some tamper proof torx bits handy to swap the mounting brackets for the P valve from your stock 3040 to the integra 4040 and the brackets are slightly different.)
I did the swap 2 years ago and ran it with the stock MC and stock P valve for a while. It was okay, but the pedal didn't have the feel it once did. So I upgraded to the 15/16" MC and 4040 P valve. It made a dramatic difference.
You could also upgrade to the 1" MC BUT you would also have to replace the brake booster as well. That being said, I think that the 15/16" MC is just fine. Not too soft, not too hard. This might be excessive unless you also plan to upgrade the fronts to EK knuckles and brakes.
For the swap:
I suggest getting the rear trailing arm assemblies with E-BRAKE cable ATTACHED from 92-95 Civic 4dr w/disc (just remove the ABS sensors) or the 94-01 integra w/disc.
While you have them off the car, REPLACE the TA bushings, rotors, brake lines and pads. Inspect the wheel bearings and rebuild the calipers.
This swap is basically a "bling" factor when comparing cost per increase in braking ability. If you are serious about obtaining greater braking ability you should be looking into bis brake kits.
It will cost more than $200 if you do it right.
T arms: $100 at the cheapest, if you're lucky.
Rotors: 80
Pads: 40
TA bushings: 80
Lines: 20
Rebulid kits: 10 each
So right there it's 330. Good luck and let me know if you have ant questions!
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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Joined: Sep 2006
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Okay, I'm going to pipe in now...
...The 92-95 Civic Si are EXs!!!! The only difference is that they were made and sold in Canada. Well, that and they have daytime running lights as required by Canadian Automotive laws.
Anywho, you have a 95 EX, that means if no one stole your MC you should have a 7/8" stock.
If you have the extra money for it, replace the MC with a 15/16" from an older 91 prelude Si, 90-91 EX sedan civic, or 90+ Integra (not the type R). Also if you're going to do that, replace the proportioning valve to the integra 4040. (On a side note, make sure you have some tamper proof torx bits handy to swap the mounting brackets for the P valve from your stock 3040 to the integra 4040 and the brackets are slightly different.)
I did the swap 2 years ago and ran it with the stock MC and stock P valve for a while. It was okay, but the pedal didn't have the feel it once did. So I upgraded to the 15/16" MC and 4040 P valve. It made a dramatic difference.
You could also upgrade to the 1" MC BUT you would also have to replace the brake booster as well. That being said, I think that the 15/16" MC is just fine. Not too soft, not too hard. This might be excessive unless you also plan to upgrade the fronts to EK knuckles and brakes.
For the swap:
I suggest getting the rear trailing arm assemblies with E-BRAKE cable ATTACHED from 92-95 Civic 4dr w/disc (just remove the ABS sensors) or the 94-01 integra w/disc.
While you have them off the car, REPLACE the TA bushings, rotors, brake lines and pads. Inspect the wheel bearings and rebuild the calipers.
This swap is basically a "bling" factor when comparing cost per increase in braking ability. If you are serious about obtaining greater braking ability you should be looking into bis brake kits.
It will cost more than $200 if you do it right.
T arms: $100 at the cheapest, if you're lucky.
Rotors: 80
Pads: 40
TA bushings: 80
Lines: 20
Rebulid kits: 10 each
So right there it's 330. Good luck and let me know if you have ant questions!
...The 92-95 Civic Si are EXs!!!! The only difference is that they were made and sold in Canada. Well, that and they have daytime running lights as required by Canadian Automotive laws.
Anywho, you have a 95 EX, that means if no one stole your MC you should have a 7/8" stock.
If you have the extra money for it, replace the MC with a 15/16" from an older 91 prelude Si, 90-91 EX sedan civic, or 90+ Integra (not the type R). Also if you're going to do that, replace the proportioning valve to the integra 4040. (On a side note, make sure you have some tamper proof torx bits handy to swap the mounting brackets for the P valve from your stock 3040 to the integra 4040 and the brackets are slightly different.)
I did the swap 2 years ago and ran it with the stock MC and stock P valve for a while. It was okay, but the pedal didn't have the feel it once did. So I upgraded to the 15/16" MC and 4040 P valve. It made a dramatic difference.
You could also upgrade to the 1" MC BUT you would also have to replace the brake booster as well. That being said, I think that the 15/16" MC is just fine. Not too soft, not too hard. This might be excessive unless you also plan to upgrade the fronts to EK knuckles and brakes.
For the swap:
I suggest getting the rear trailing arm assemblies with E-BRAKE cable ATTACHED from 92-95 Civic 4dr w/disc (just remove the ABS sensors) or the 94-01 integra w/disc.
While you have them off the car, REPLACE the TA bushings, rotors, brake lines and pads. Inspect the wheel bearings and rebuild the calipers.
This swap is basically a "bling" factor when comparing cost per increase in braking ability. If you are serious about obtaining greater braking ability you should be looking into bis brake kits.
It will cost more than $200 if you do it right.
T arms: $100 at the cheapest, if you're lucky.
Rotors: 80
Pads: 40
TA bushings: 80
Lines: 20
Rebulid kits: 10 each
So right there it's 330. Good luck and let me know if you have ant questions!
Trailing arms for $100 at the cheapest if you're lucky? Where are you getting used parts from? Like I said before...my friend and I went and got a GSR front and rear brake setup for $75 from a junkyard.
I've also gotten the complete rear disk for $50.
I never needed rebuild kits or bushings. The parts included lines. You just pick the ones that are in good shape.
Why do the E-brake cables have to come from a 4dr civic? The coupe/hatchback lines will work.
The GSR/EX/SI ABS/EM1 front brakes are about 1'' bigger than stock. You don't need a big brake kit. There a lot of time attack civics just running the above mentioned brakes with race pads. You'd be surprised at how little braking power over stock you need in even a fast civic.
I'd rather do either the GSR/EX/SI ABS/EM1 brake conversion or a 5 lug than a big brake kit.
Im only gonna say this once. if you want to find ANY part for your car. use http://car-part.com/



