I have 3 cheap manual boost controllers. 1 is bleed type, (cheep ebay 1) and the other two are ball and spring. one of the two is a home depot style, it wont increase boost no matter how much its turned up, the other is the ebay ball and spring type. and it doesn't seem to open the w.g. at all resulting in almost instant boost cut.

the ebay b&s one has a bleeder hole, iv researched this and it seems quite common, its to help the w.g. close when the ball seats back down.

the home depot one does not have this.

are my problems a result of the spring tension just being way out of wack? or should I plug the hole on the ebay one and give it another go?

really wanna figure this out befor going to the tuner on thurs.

any input is much appreciated.

 

what is the base spring on the gate?

 

you have 3 cheap mbc's think that answers your questions right there. Even if you rig one of them to work last thing you want is something to go wrong when your getting it tuned. Get a real one and your problems will be solved.

 

Ditto.

Get a reliable, well manufactured boost controller. This is something you dont want to go cheap on. If you boost spike then there goes all the money you spent building/tuning... all because you didnt want to spend $100 on a small piece of equipment.

I personally use Hallman. Never had any issues holding boost at the level I want.

 

I know, Im figuring this out as I go... Ive been cheap all my life and its hard changing things.


only problem is I don't know of any where local to swoop one up.

 

isn't that what boost cut is for though...?

 

I'm not sure what you mean by 'boost cut'?

If youre running a manual boost controller theres nothing to control your boost level except that and the wastegate spring.

 

hes saying if you spike boost its game over for your motor. boost cut it in the tuning where it cuts fuel and or ign to stop the motor from overboosting.

 

I know mbc's arent the best thing BUT maybe just maybe something else is wrong. Are you sure that everything is right elsewhere?

 

ya, if the w.g. is hooked up direct I get about 8-9.5lbs perfect (a little creep is a given with a ram and a tial 35mm)

with the home depot one, I get almost exactly the same boost maybe .5lbs higher.

with the ebay one I spike hard as a ****, Iv taken it apart and made sure the ball has room to go back so it isnt stopping the boost signal... only thing I can think of is the little bleeder hole in it is letting the pressure out and stopping the gate from opening. Im gonna try and jb weld it shut and see what happens.

I just dont understand. these are very very basic mechanical designs with a very minimal amount of things that can go wrong. and they have been proven over and over with dsm guys and others turbo cars.... so I don't know what the deal is.