Just wanted to know if anyone else has used them or not. I have a DA integra..and they're pretty cheap..thanx

 

Usually you get what you pay for. I haven't used them but I probably wouldn't just to save a little cash. Save up and buy from a reputable company.

 

x2.

I've got Megan LCAs on my DB, sway bar holes are off by a mile. Save your money and buy quality parts.

 

For near the same price you could score tein basics or d2's...

Although everyone on H-T has their own opinion we will all hold true to this:
"you pay for what you get"

When it comes to suspension I wouldn't bargain (IMO) Save a couple more bucks, make your DA happy!

 

i got megan coil overs, lcas, and tie bar on my teg and its a smooth ride. everything lined up ok. and im happy with it

 

i had megan coilovers on my rsx i don't think i will ever by another megan product again. like stated about save a little more and buy from a more reputable company. but everyone has a different opinion, hks coilovers ftw.

 

thanks for all the input...Im gonna get something better..Im leaner towards skunk2 ajustables..

 

Glad you had a good experience.

I also had a Megan C pillar bar and that was flimsy as ****.
I cannot recommend there parts at all.

 

For a good setup you will need shocks too, not just coilovers. I would save up for a complete setup. In the meantime I would just cut your stock springs, it gets the job done and its free. It will cause your shocks to blow, but so will any other lowering spring/coil over.

 

You're a jackass. GTFO.
OP DO NOT CUT YOUR SPRINGS!

 

Considering its free and does the same thing cheap lowering springs do, why wouldn't you? Let me guess its "Dangerous".

 

You can do whatever to your car, but when you start telling people to do retarded **** that could endanger not only their life but others around them you are an *******.
Shocks are different than struts btw.

 

Well duh of course I knew you were going to say it was "dangerous" thats what all the little sheep say, then I come back and ask how it is "dangerous" and the sheep never come back. Bye sheep.

Yes I know shocks and struts are different. I grew up calling them shocks and am not going to change it because pretty much everyone knows what you are referring to and only douche bags that strive to be right like you would correct someone.

 

It's been a long time since i took physics but maybe someone that's a little better with this stuff could help me out. But I think you are changing the spring rate when you cut the springs which is why it's dangerous. You will be lowering your car and making the springs softer and that's not what you want. BTW it's been a really long time since physics class, i don't want to post up wrong info so i need an engineer's help, ha.

 

You do infact change the spring rate by cutting the stock spring, effectively ruining the geometry of the suspension due to the spring not being able to operate as designed. As you work your way further down the coil the spring is actually wound tighter therefore storing more potential energy. Aside from having a vehicle that rides like utter **** and has improper suspension angles, you've created something that will bounce your frickin teeth out within about a month. Due to the shorter springs bottoming out the suspension, requiring more compression travel than the strut (or shock for those douchebags who like to sound halfway intelligent) can provide.

Don't cut your springs, long story short. I mean afterall does Neardon really sound like someone who has a half working knowledge of the bullshit he's spouting off about?

 

Actually, when you cut coils off of a spring, you INCREASE the spring's rate. So a cut stock spring is going to have a higher spring rate, and be shorter, than the original unmodified spring.... wait for it.... JUST LIKE AFTERMARKET LOWERING SPRINGS.

I'm going to agree with Neardon. If you're going to slap on aftermarket lower springs or coilovers onto STOCK SHOCKS, then you might as well just cut the stock springs, because both will blow out the stock shocks in short order. You will probably bottom out more often with cut stock springs (the spring rate won't be quite as high as the lowering spring or coilover spring), but still - both the stiff rates and lower ride height is what kills the stock shocks.

Now I'm not advocating cutting stock springs, but I do not advocate putting aftermarket springs of any sort on stock shocks, either. But if you think about what you do and cut say, 2-3 coils off of a spring, you're not going to kill anybody. It will just make your car ride like complete and total ****.

 

You are question my intelligence, yet you quote me and cant even respond to what you quoted. We all know cut springs and cheap springs ride like crap and ruin your suspension, thats why they are cheap/free.

 

err... yep.

 

I'm not certain you're replying to me, but I'm not certain anyone said anything to the contrary, just simply that the spring rate will be altered.

That said, many other factors will be altered at the same time, such as spring load, or load rate. As well, aftermarket springs are designed with VRS perameters in mind, or Variable Rate Springs. Aside from factors such as spring fatigue, or leaving the chance of an uncaptured spring floating between the control arm/mount. Sure, they're virtually the same, minus the increased likelihood of a broken coil due to improper structure and modification to the springs design.

I'm not entirely certain anyone said anything about 'half' coilovers on stock shocks/struts. I was under the impression he was referring to the full coilover setup i.e. http://www.meganracing.com/products/...=474&catid=101
That said I openly admit to not having enough give-a-**** to go back and reread through the thread. If i misunderstood or misinterpreted the question my apologies.

I understand and respectfully point out that it's really all I stated about the setup. However the case could be made that the bouncing created by said cut springs would definitely hamper stopping distances, turn-in, and the ability to hold a line mid corner. All of which could entirely lead to unsafe circumstances. But I'd suspect for the vast majority of members on HT, they're never going to push the car nor test it in any fashion where this would matter. It'll look cool as hell in the driveway, and unfortunately that seems to be all most anyone cares about.

In the spirit of what you're trying to say, I agree with you. Just simply installing some lowering springs without the other proper suspension components is half *** and will likely hurt your vehicles performance more than help it, and I wouldn't really suggest this method either. However, I would recommend it over cutting a stock coil.

 

oh no mr grammer **** in da house i mus be stupid 4 not adding ing! u da smart n cant even follw da thrad

 

If you can't figure out at least a basic understanding of the language you use on a daily basis, is anyone supposed to believe you know the first thing about suspension setups? Which is, by industry experts, likely the least understood 'black art,' involved in automotive engineering and design today.

I'd fathom to say you've provided no factual data or telemetry to prove any case FOR cut springs. You've not demonstrated in any fashion how cutting the stock spring will help the OP in any way shape or form. About all I've personally gathered from your post is that you're a cheap *** who couldn't care less how the vehicle actually performs. If thats your thing, please continue by all means, don't let me stop you, but I wouldn't suggest you give setup advice to anyone else in the meantime.

 

All I'm saying is that it will screw up the handling aspect and potentially braking aspect of the car. Which means it is more prone to the driver losing control.

 

hey man i don't mean to question you, and if you have time could you go into this a little more? I thought the springs were wound tighter at one end and by getting rid of that part would make the spring softer decreasing the spring rate. However, i dont know if there is a formula, which there probably is, that takes into account the distance traveled. I also don't know the math for a spring that has a changing spring constant, like wound tighter at one end that the other. I feel like we are just getting an average spring constant for an suspension spring where in fact it changes in different sections.

You've helped me out alot i just wanna try and follow your train of thought. Like i said it's been a long time since physics class, and trying to apply it to cars now stuff takes a long time to sink in.

 

I think inorder to get an accurate idea of what you're attempting to do, I think you would need to know the amount of stored energy within a particular spring. If the spring were less coiled at one end, it would have less potential energy within the spring at that end. On the flipside, the tighter the spring is wrapped the higher amount of stored energy and thus 'harder' the spring is going to be, or more resistance within the spring.

You mentioned not knowing the math involved for the VRS (variable rate spring), and again I think that would depend upon the rate of change within the particular spring, how tightly it became wrapped, after the 'soft' section of the particular coil.

If I had to guess I would assume you need to know the load rate, and carry weight of the particular spring, as well as the preload and rate of variance between the top and bottom. However, the particular formula as I've seen it exists like:

K=w4*g / 8nd3
K = Spring rate in pounds per inch
W = Diameter of the spring wire in inches
G = 12,000,000 for steel springs (a constant)
N = Number of active coils (number of coils that are free to move + 1/2 coil)
D = Diameter of the coils measured to the center of the wire, in inches


Note the relationship between the number of active coils (N) and the spring rate (K).
If you cut off half the active coils the spring rate is doubled.

 

Stock non-R Integra springs are a linear rate (ITR rears are progressive), so we'll look at linear rate springs. But this really will apply to any coil-wound spring.

Imagine a spring that has an 10" free-length, and the spring wire makes 10 coils. Each coil is about 1" apart. The spring has a rate of 500 lb/in (about 3-4 times stiffer than stock springs, but this is just an example).

So, our 500 lb/in spring requires 500 lbs. to compress 1 inch. Now think about what happens when a spring compresses. The coils get closer together. In order for the coils to get closer together, the wire itself must twist. If you look at any given section along the wire's length, there will be a twisting force applied when a load is put on the spring. The amount of torsional rigidity in the wire is part of what determines the spring rate.

In our example, the 500 lb/in spring with 10 coils and a 500 lb. is 1 inch shorter. It is now 9" tall. That means that each of the 10 coils had to get 0.1" closer together. So now the 10 coils are 0.9" apart, for a total of 9" with the 500 lb. load.

Now let's say you cut off 2 coils from our spring. Now the spring has 8 coils, and it's 8" long. However, the coil wire itself has not changed. It's torsional rigidity remains the same. If you put the same 500 lb. load on the spring to move the coils 0.1" closer together, the spring is only 0.8" shorter. To get the spring to compress a full inch, each coil most move 0.125" closer together. That means the coil wire must twist MORE in order to compress the same 1" compared to when the spring had 10 coils.

So to get this spring that is now 8" long and has 8 coils to compress a full inch, you must apply a load of 625 lbs. So the spring that has 20% of its length/coils removed, increased in spring rate by 25%.

Hope I didn't lose you there. All of this is known in the physics world as part of Newtonian Mechanics (named for Sir Issac Newton of course).