ive searched around and some have said it cant be done without new internals.... i already plan on a cai, tri y header,, test pipe 2.5 exhaust all the way back,sk2 intake mani,some type of cams, s300 or neptune. i dont want to crack the motor open being its pretty mint with only 85k on it. so what cams and other things will be needed... or is it a lost cause?

 

intake, headers, cams, and tune. And if that dont work run ya a 50 shot a spray. It can be done but its hard without busting off the head at least.

 

200 without touching internals? no way

 

If you dont crack open the block you wont be able to get high compression pistons so your cam choices are going to be limited. Looking at the setup you plan and a ITR setup, I dont see much differance besides the pistons and ITR's dont even come close to 200WHP

 

+1 with just bolt ons i'd see you doing something in the 170+ whp range. with a really good tune, and the right gas, maybe see 180 whp(190-200 on 110 octane maybe). now if you're looking for 200 hp at the flywheel, then it's not that hard.

 

ive heard of people with i/tri y /e and s2im making around 175-180 i thought like s2 stage 2 cams would bring it close to 200 like 190-195

 

yeah but you'll need to upgrade your valvetrain for those cams....

 

will a gsr with bolt ons and blox type c cams get 200bhp?

or will u need to get itr pistons aswell?

 

upgraded valvetrain and bottom end will get you there anyday

 

Yea skunk 2 stage 2's would be nice if they didn't require high compression. Your car will run like crap with stock pistons and those cams. Because you don't want to crack open the block, you are pretty much limited to ITR/CTR cams or some other cams with a not so agressive profile.

 

I built an LS VTEC with 12:1 CR and ITB's. I'm hoping to hit 200 bhp with cams.

 

a jdm itr motor normally puts down 170s and 180 with a good exhaust. they have 6cc dome pistons, better cams, better intake and a better exhaust. if you don't want to crack into the motor buy a small turbo kit. you will quickly hit 200whp

 

i didnt know people couldn't run skunk2 stage 2's with stock internals.... by valvetrain i assume u mean upgraded springs and retainers.... and im not against boost but prefer the reliability of n/a being its a simple daily driver not a track car...

 

Lost cause without opening up the motor and throwing some goodies in there. Honestly I had 185 whp, 190whp, and then 220 whp NA...There isn't much difference. I'd just do a final drive swap if I were you and do some bolt ons....

 

i want to keep my botom end stock

i have REV valves racing valvetrain

but if i purchase blox type c's they come with blox valve train

 

you don't have the compression for blox c's or skunk stage 2s. at best you could use a crower 63401 or skunk stage 1 with the stock gsr compression.

 

what about a thin head gasket to bump compression (spoon, mugen) im not familiar with how much they raise it...

 

i've got skunk2 stage1 tuner series cams, adjustable gears, proseries valve train, edlebrock vic-x intakemani, with some good exhaust and an s200. suppose to get it dyno'd when i get back, i'm hoping to push 175hp. But 200hp n/a without bumping up the pistons is a long shot.

will post dyno results when i get them.

 

reason behind all of this is i want to have at least a high 13 second car... is that feasible out of a n/a gsr with 180whp

 

definitely. I can see a 13 sec na gsr easy. if the driver can do it ;p

 

pull the head, then you can replace the timing belt while your at it and raise the compression a bit and for sure you will hit 200

 

there are other ways to bump compression such as a thinner headgasket. You can use an OEM hg and removing 1 layer (same as the mugen). Also, milling the head will bump you up a notch. These are just ideas due to the fact that you don't want to go inside the block.

Also, p30 pistons will yield higher compression than ITR's in a gsr motor. Keep that in mind just incase you decide to go internal.

 

agree with all of this. removing the center layer in the HG is a gamble on an old GSR motor though. if your block or head is out of true you have that much less flex to seal everything up. if you do have a true deck it works great. flat face valves are also worth a little more compression. even still, without changing the pistons you'll be in the mid 10s compression wise. great for skunk or crower 1s. with a blox manifold and a great exhaust you should be 17x whp.

if you're really after power boost is the cheapest way to do it. personally, i'm driving a jdm itr motor and happy as a clam. if you are happy with a balanced car that gets great mpg your build might be an idea. if you're after power leave the motor stock and buy turbo parts.