HELP!! I keep blowing oil pan gaskets...
Alright so i got my car running near the end of last summer and didn't really get to drive it much, but so far ive blown 4 oil pan gaskets. I thought it was all because i didn't have any sort of pcv system. I just recently had an fittings welded to my valve cover thinking that would solve all my problems. So went and bought a new gasket today and put it on, started the car and ran fine, until i boosted (14psi) once in third gear and it was done for. I seriously don't know what else i can do so if anyone has any advice it would be much appreciated.
Heres my setup
Head
JDM B16 Head
Stock Cams, Springs and Retainers
ARP Head Studs
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Golden Eagle Ls-Vtec Conversion Kit
OBD1 Dizzy with MSD Modified Cap
MSD Blaster Coil
Block
B18b1 Golden Eagle Sleeved (84mm Bore)
Stock Ls Crank
Arias 9.0-1 Pistons
Eagle Rods (with ARP Rod Bolts)
ACL Bearing
ARP Main Studs and Flywheel Bolts
ITR Oil Pump
ITR Water Pump
Greddy Timing Belt
Turbo Setup
Garrett t3/60-1 (.70 compressor, .82 exhaust side)
SSAC Ramhorn Maniforld
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Greedy RS BOV
3in Downpipe, 3in Exhaust
Godspeed Innercooler (28 x 6.5 x 2.5)
2.5in Innercooler Piping
Motorola 2.5 Bar Map Sensor
Blox Vacuum Manifold
Neukin Oil Lines
Mishimoto Radiator and Fan
Hondata s300
Heres my setup
Head
JDM B16 Head
Stock Cams, Springs and Retainers
ARP Head Studs
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Golden Eagle Ls-Vtec Conversion Kit
OBD1 Dizzy with MSD Modified Cap
MSD Blaster Coil
Block
B18b1 Golden Eagle Sleeved (84mm Bore)
Stock Ls Crank
Arias 9.0-1 Pistons
Eagle Rods (with ARP Rod Bolts)
ACL Bearing
ARP Main Studs and Flywheel Bolts
ITR Oil Pump
ITR Water Pump
Greddy Timing Belt
Turbo Setup
Garrett t3/60-1 (.70 compressor, .82 exhaust side)
SSAC Ramhorn Maniforld
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Greedy RS BOV
3in Downpipe, 3in Exhaust
Godspeed Innercooler (28 x 6.5 x 2.5)
2.5in Innercooler Piping
Motorola 2.5 Bar Map Sensor
Blox Vacuum Manifold
Neukin Oil Lines
Mishimoto Radiator and Fan
Hondata s300
crankcase pressure seems to be the problem, you are on the right track with a breather but might need something a little larger.
Have you done a leakdown test on this engine in question?
Have you done a leakdown test on this engine in question?
im willing to bet its not crank case pressure but a warped oil pan flange.
change the pan and carfully tighten the new one down equally. if the gasket starts to squish out the sides then you are going to tight.
i apply a small ammount of blue loctite to the oil pan bolts so they down back out with such low torque.
change the pan and carfully tighten the new one down equally. if the gasket starts to squish out the sides then you are going to tight.
i apply a small ammount of blue loctite to the oil pan bolts so they down back out with such low torque.
Alright so i got my car running near the end of last summer and didn't really get to drive it much, but so far ive blown 4 oil pan gaskets. I thought it was all because i didn't have any sort of pcv system. I just recently had an fittings welded to my valve cover thinking that would solve all my problems. So went and bought a new gasket today and put it on, started the car and ran fine, until i boosted (14psi) once in third gear and it was done for. I seriously don't know what else i can do so if anyone has any advice it would be much appreciated.
Heres my setup
Head
JDM B16 Head
Stock Cams, Springs and Retainers
ARP Head Studs
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Golden Eagle Ls-Vtec Conversion Kit
OBD1 Dizzy with MSD Modified Cap
MSD Blaster Coil
Block
B18b1 Golden Eagle Sleeved (84mm Bore)
Stock Ls Crank
Arias 9.0-1 Pistons
Eagle Rods (with ARP Rod Bolts)
ACL Bearing
ARP Main Studs and Flywheel Bolts
ITR Oil Pump
ITR Water Pump
Greddy Timing Belt
Turbo Setup
Garrett t3/60-1 (.70 compressor, .82 exhaust side)
SSAC Ramhorn Maniforld
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Greedy RS BOV
3in Downpipe, 3in Exhaust
Godspeed Innercooler (28 x 6.5 x 2.5)
2.5in Innercooler Piping
Motorola 2.5 Bar Map Sensor
Blox Vacuum Manifold
Neukin Oil Lines
Mishimoto Radiator and Fan
Hondata s300
Heres my setup
Head
JDM B16 Head
Stock Cams, Springs and Retainers
ARP Head Studs
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Golden Eagle Ls-Vtec Conversion Kit
OBD1 Dizzy with MSD Modified Cap
MSD Blaster Coil
Block
B18b1 Golden Eagle Sleeved (84mm Bore)
Stock Ls Crank
Arias 9.0-1 Pistons
Eagle Rods (with ARP Rod Bolts)
ACL Bearing
ARP Main Studs and Flywheel Bolts
ITR Oil Pump
ITR Water Pump
Greddy Timing Belt
Turbo Setup
Garrett t3/60-1 (.70 compressor, .82 exhaust side)
SSAC Ramhorn Maniforld
Tial 38mm Wastegate
Greedy RS BOV
3in Downpipe, 3in Exhaust
Godspeed Innercooler (28 x 6.5 x 2.5)
2.5in Innercooler Piping
Motorola 2.5 Bar Map Sensor
Blox Vacuum Manifold
Neukin Oil Lines
Mishimoto Radiator and Fan
Hondata s300
Trending Topics
im willing to bet its not crank case pressure but a warped oil pan flange.
change the pan and carfully tighten the new one down equally. if the gasket starts to squish out the sides then you are going to tight.
i apply a small ammount of blue loctite to the oil pan bolts so they down back out with such low torque.
change the pan and carfully tighten the new one down equally. if the gasket starts to squish out the sides then you are going to tight.
i apply a small ammount of blue loctite to the oil pan bolts so they down back out with such low torque.
It's more than likely two options that have already been stated.
Excessive crankcase pressure. Bent oil pan.
The pan is new and blowing in different spots everytime, did A compression test and ranged from 150 to 160, rings are gapped 18 and 22, is that bad?
How tight are you tightening the oil pan bolts? Just lightly snug them up, drive the car a few miles and tighten them a quarter turn past where they start to get a little resistance. I went through 2 because i was tightening them too tight the first time.
And like stated above check the oil pan for straightness before installation. I put a small led flashlight in the pan and put it against the block to see where light shinned through.
And like stated above check the oil pan for straightness before installation. I put a small led flashlight in the pan and put it against the block to see where light shinned through.
Not trying to jack, but I have been having the same problem. I am getting fuel in my oil also. I am going to double check my breather lines today, and make sure the PCV system isn't hooked up.
How tight are you tightening the oil pan bolts? Just lightly snug them up, drive the car a few miles and tighten them a quarter turn past where they start to get a little resistance. I went through 2 because i was tightening them too tight the first time.
And like stated above check the oil pan for straightness before installation. I put a small led flashlight in the pan and put it against the block to see where light shinned through.
And like stated above check the oil pan for straightness before installation. I put a small led flashlight in the pan and put it against the block to see where light shinned through.
Last edited by usdmDC4; Jan 23, 2009 at 10:01 AM.
bump for jason. we still cant figure this out. we took the head off the other night and all the exhaust valves were a whitish color while the intake valves had carbon build up. is this a sign of bad valves or anything?
Damn you torque the oil pan bolts to 9 ft/lbs? That seems like WAY TOO much. I tighten mine with a 1/4" drive ratchet. Just a 1/4 turn past snug.
the torque spec in the service manual is 10ft/lbs i believe.
i always found that WAYYY to tight. i don't know what honda was thinking when they came up with that spec. of all the times i have done b-series oil pans anything more than 30-40 INCH pounds is over tight.
like mentioned before. just use a 1/4 drive hand ratchet and snug them by hand. since they only require such low torque i apply blue loctite to the threads so they don't back out. (i have lost oil pan bolts from not using loctite)
i always found that WAYYY to tight. i don't know what honda was thinking when they came up with that spec. of all the times i have done b-series oil pans anything more than 30-40 INCH pounds is over tight.
like mentioned before. just use a 1/4 drive hand ratchet and snug them by hand. since they only require such low torque i apply blue loctite to the threads so they don't back out. (i have lost oil pan bolts from not using loctite)
How is your blowby out of the catch can at idle? My beater's D15 has some feirce blowby, and the 1/2" port out of the VC feels like someone's trying blowing hard to cool some HOT soup. The VC gasket is also dead on it, but the oil pan gasket is fine. With a bigger motor with 3x the airflow would make that much more blowby.
One other thing it could be - way too much timing with big ring gaps. Your HG/sleeves/pistons may take the high cylinder pressure, but that extra blowby could be contributing to blowing the gasket out.
One other thing it could be - way too much timing with big ring gaps. Your HG/sleeves/pistons may take the high cylinder pressure, but that extra blowby could be contributing to blowing the gasket out.
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