Well some of you all know I have found myself in a pickle when I traded for a "built" Integra. The car has a b18a stock head with 57 trim t3 turbo. The car has been running good for the last week but day by day it starts to smoke at deceleration, a little at idle when warm, and also when accelerating at first. It acted like it was just the turbo seals going bad (no name turbo may be possible)

HOWEVER today I got off my *** and checked compression and found #2 cylinder was soaked in oil and the plug was fouled and probably not firing, BUT the problem was in #3 where compression was 140psi and the rest was 160. I don’t have a gauge to do a leak down test.

I'm trying to figure it all out but I think my best bet is to just pull the head and inspect the block and internals. I'm going to keep everyone updated that read my previous thread about the car and for those who wanted to flame me about everything stay out.

I'm not afraid to build the car for major power but I've been reading that the b18 walls are too thin to handle much power and sleeving is expensive as **** so I'm trying to stay away from that rout. If it comes down to it, forged internals with stock sleeves on 12 psi is going to be my build.

 

Yeah, I know someone who is boosted at 18psi on a stock b18a1 but he and I both know that won't last long... "Safe" boost for a stock block would be 7/8 psi. If you want something with more guts, then yeah you gotta spend some cash on the block

 

Wow, that sure sounds accurate ..
So I can go and pick out ANY turbo I want and run 7-8pounds safely on a stock block?

 

both your avatars fit you perfect.

ive personally seen up to 21 psi on bone stock motors hold and 19 psi for over a year.

sounds like you bought a bone stock turbo integra that might have a cracked ringland.

 

yeah thats what I'm thinking. as long as the block isnt damaged i'm not to worried about it. I can tear it down and replace some of the internals with better components. but I'm trying to figure out it if soft stock iron walls can handle the abuse of forged pistons. I dont really want to go the route of sleeving....

What is weired is the oil is in number 2 cylinder but compression loss is in number 3 cylinder... So I think i have more than one problem going on

 

yea thats kinda odd. stock sleeves can hold a lot of boost. my friends crx is holding 550 wheel (dont know how much boost) on stock sleeves with just forged pistsons and rods and runs 9.5's at 153's.

 

It's holding 550psi of boost? that's impressive.


boost pressure isn't what instantaneously kills any engine; not just a Honda engine. It is pretty widely accepted that the stock sleeves are very prone to failure at 300hp and up. There are still more variables, but, that's just a given starting point where most failures occur. Of course, tuning plays a key role as well.

 

i believe with a real good tune you can run 12psi without worry....BUT WITH A GOOD TUNE!

 

fixed, 550 wheel rtard.

your right, its what kills sleeves.

and yes its mostly about tuning. what kills engines, especially stock ones is fatigue. honda parts dont last forever. nor do forged ones. they get really tired after a while. and ive seen setups over 350 wheel hold for years on stock sleeves. and i dont see many setups cracking sleeves there are just hitting 300 wheel nor 400 wheel. maybe if its a b20 i can see that cause they have pretty thin sleeves.

 

I'm not the retard that posted it the way you did.

Soooo....detonation has nothing to do with that, huh? boost does not kill sleeves.


Back to the OP and his original topic, first of all smoke under decel should have been a key that the rings or ringlands were to blame. There may be scoring to the cylinder walls and you won't know how bad until you take it apart and look. That will pretty much tell you everything you need to know.


what are you planning on tuning with? Plan the whole build out and not just what internals you think you want to use. Keep your turbo in mind, too. Make sure there is no damage to it.

 

All this talk of PSI... it means nothing unless the type and size of turbo are given.

FOR EXAMPLE, A B18 might last a year on 10 PSI, or half a year on 8 PSI. It all depends on the turbo details. IMO, a reliable 325-350 WHP B18 on a really good tune is very possible with stock sleeves. Look through the boosted B18 thread in the FI forum and see for yourself.

 

your the one that thought i was talking psi??? your fault for not understanding.

ok so if boost does not kill sleeves, ill just run 40 lbs in my stock sleeve motor with je and eagle drop in's since it wont crack the sleeves. you can have low compression pistons and run some serious boost...that will crack sleeves.

 

sounds like u have either
-blowby from rings not seating
-cheap ebay turbo (u mentioned no name on it)

my suggestion for blowby is do a cylinder leakdown tester
(not a compression check)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=94190
read instructions on how to use it, there will be turning the crank involved for checking each cyl. and a get a compressor

if its a bad turbo check for turbine shaft endplay,
if its smokin on idle take the manifold of n put a all motor header n see if it smokes if it dont its the turbo if it does still u have blowby

good luck, u aint the only one with that problem!! im havin that prob right now! i had compression in all cyl. but it would smoke like hell
------------------------------------------------------------
95mm stroker allmotor lsvtec setup eg6
goin turbo so allmotor parts for sale
stroker kit has only 30-50~miles on it still will 1000 for the kit
or trade for low c/r pistons h-beams and gsr stock crank

 

well mine doesnt smoke AT ALL if I start it and let it sit w/o touching the thorttle. I didnt feel like buying a leak tester thats why I figured I would go ahead and tear into the motor. I have to figure out why my #2 spark plug is fouling to oil and my #3 is 20psi less compression than the rest...

Yeah I'm guessing I have bad ringlands, I already pulled the turbo and checked for shaft play, BUT when I looked at the hot pipe I could DUMP oil out of it. However, at the time the turbo (Precision TYPE 57 trim) was backing the bolts out of the housing. i am going to pull the turbo and see if it helps. I need to pull the turbo again and look at the hot pipe.

What is the specs on compression readings for GSR? I'm running 160psi on all but #3 and I see 140psi. I didnt see if a tsp of oil would bring the compression up which I will try again. (this was all done in 20 degree weather and I just wanted to get the hell inside!! haha)

 

im not so sure wat compression gsr is...when u said "I looked at the (HOT PIPE) I could DUMP oil out of it. DO U MEAN IN THE TURBO ON THE EXHAUST SIDE ALSO KNOWN AS THE TURBINE(HOTSIDE) IF IT IS im thinkin the turbo went bad

but i would try doin the all motor header on let it run for a good time rev it up n all that, if it continues to smoke then i would go ahead n buy the cyl. leak test from there it would tell u if either u have washed/cracked rings or ringlands or valve seals went bad its only 30 bucks and it helps alot too for future projects. my friends hatch was smokin we did that test everything was fine then i decided lets take the turbo off n it wouldnt smoke anymore
so it helped, then he started lossin comp on one cyl. the next week we changed the oil/filter added some engine restorer n i must say i helped i kept smokin for a while but then it quit. we did the same on my allmotor hatch but it wouldnt quit i had 440cc inj. n washed away the rings yea
iwas runnin that since im runnin a direct port nitrous 50 on each but it was deff too much gas dumpin in not good!!hahah

 

tube bad you couldnt have two maps, one for your shot of nos and one for street driving.

I ment the piping from the compressor side of the turbo to the FMIC. I'm sure the turbo isnt doing so great, but I dont want to start buy a turbo is I'm in need of pistons and rods (i doubt I will just replace rings, id rather beef up the internals to handle more boost). But hopefully I will get the chance to do a little more diagnosing tonight. My 240sx is taking up my whole garage!!!

 

word well good luck to ya man wat u doin with that 240sx wat u got in it?
i got a turbo setup for a sr20det or for a KA-T minus the manifold!

 

Your high.. Who accepts this? Any time you put boost to an engine that wasn't designed for it, its prone to failure.

I put 12k miles on stock gsr sleeves at around 500, never a problem. I built it, I tuned it.

I can list at least ten dyno sheets, stock sleeve, 600+hp.

Most every stock sleeve car leaving our shop this season will be over 300hp.

 

SR20det. What setup do you have? I'm running a td06-25g but I need to go bigger I'm sufficating the turbo at 413whp

 

OH OK!! yea i have the same one T28R
i have a sr20det megan racing lower mount mani
3inch downpipe n the elbow w/o2 bong

 

http://www.synapseturbo.com/mm5/merc...ry_Code=turbos

they have some turbos that might fit ur needs i dont kno
if itll make a hole in ur pocket!!lol but i think either the gt28rs
wit a .63 a/r be a good choice or a gt2871r i seen a sr20det wit a gt2871r
made good power n still had more but my buddy said he didnt want no more than 450hp so if it helps.
ill be gettin my turbo from that website i juss gotta save some bank!!LOTS
im prolly goin wit the setup the got from the manifold being v-band flange onto the turbo so i gotta get the turbine housing they have from TIAL im goin with a gt3082r Dual BB turbo the whole setup will end up being v-band
manifold to turbo wastegate on turbo n downpipe!! With a V band inlet allows for versatility in manifold design, as well as a smoother entrance into the turbocharger. So imma go ahead n try that