i'm still not sure why the damn thing broke. i was removing a lugnut and it started to bind up; i tried tightening it back up to keep the wheel secure but it snapped off. the other 4 lugs are fine so i shouldn't have any problems driving but i can imagine the rotor getting warped quickly.
i checked my helms but it doesn't clearly show how to replace the lug. so how do i do the job? i'm guessing if i remove the wheel, the caliper, and the rotor that i'll have access to the rear of the hub. then i can use a hammer to tap the broken lug back through the hub and push the new lug forward into position. is this correct? is the job easy? does it require any special tools? i'm going to be an unhappy boy if this requires removing the entire knuckle.

 

you talking about the stud or the lug...

stud, yes, simple replacement. lug...you drill out.


[Modified by Soup ****, 10:58 PM 8/6/2002]

 

yes, studs - the bolts the wheels are mounted to. am i correct in my thoughts on how to fix it?
hopefully the local acura has 'em in stock. anybody know how much these cost?

 

i had that problem once....i think you overtightened it!....its relatively easy to fix....

 

always apply a little bit of WD-40 in the lugs before you torque them down... that way you never get seized lugs and never broken studs. Also, with some sort of lube you will get correct torque reading.

 

you said lube...hehe....

Anti-Seize is your friend

 

i have a tub of white lithium grease, i'll dab a little of that stuff on the studs once this is fixed. the grease worked wonders for my squeaky rear swaybar.
so, how do it fix it?

 

I recently fixed a broken stud on my SiR too. I think the procedure should be the same. After you take off the caliber and disc, you'll need a slide hammer to take off the hub. You can't replace the studs without taking off the hub because there's not enough room between the hub and knuckle. Hammer out the broken stud, then put in the new one. Use the axle nut to tighten the hub back in.

 

really white lith is more for rubber and plastic parts- anti seize or WD-40 is better for metal. I have even heard of people using a little bearing grease to keep the lugs smooth. Personally, I don't use anything- but my wheels are on and off so often they don't have time to lock up at all.

later

matt

 

Poopy!???????? ............I just fell out of my chair! Haaaaaa!!!!!!!!! ....f'n poopy!

 

not quite that easy.

either you need to seperate the wheel bearing from the hub in order to get a stud behind the hole to remove/tap in place...or....


you need to cut off old stud. get a new stud and grind off one side of the back circle. The head end needs to be flatened in order for it to clear the hub. This allows you to put in and remove studs without seperating the bearing. yeah...still need to do the other stuff you mentioned(rotor/caliper/wheel removal)

 

lithum grease....sounds so familar. raises a big red warning/caution sign for me. does this stuff cause cancer or something?

 

lip, i have a bench grinder to flatspot the bolt head, but wouldn't this severely weaken the stud? i guess this is a job for the dealership. poopy!

 

We removed the ones on my Type R and replaced them with the Hubs in tack (sp?). You might need to grind away a little extra clearance from behind to slide the old ones out, but they should come out. You just need to rotate the hub as there is only a small little area the studs will fit through and take one out at a time, rotate, repeat, etc.

 

unfortunately i won't have time this weekend, but i'll pull the rotor and caliper off soon to see if i think i can slide a ground stud into place. please, no dealerships!!!
does anyone have any thoughts are driving around with 4 of 5 studs? i'll be away this weekend (not driving the R) so it will be fairly minimal.

 

Yo dude...this happened to me once. I had the dealership fix it under warranty. Anyway, you'll be just fine driving around on 4 til you get it fixed...don't sweat it.

 

no one likes a four lugger.

later

matt