alright heres what the add says.... like is this a good build? and it says 18c block, its the JDM B18c block, not the C1 or C5... not sure what thats all about.. anyway i wanna know if this car is built with the right stuff... for the money, im trading him my BMW for it..anway please let me know!! and also if its worth buying, what should i do to it to make the build worth its while?! thanks alot!!!



acura integra **built b18c** - $4500

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Reply to: see below
Date: 2009-01-16, 4:19PM MST



I have a 97' salvage title teggy up for sale or trade.

Motor:

Car is street tuned on crome, 18c block b16 head, bored to 85mm, benson sleeves, eagle rods, cp pistons, super tech valves and retainers, arp head studs and bolts and rod bolts, itr mani, sk2 tb, dc 4-2-1 header, b16 cams, cf short ram intake, ac, ps, cc, pdl, pw.


Interior:

Ls cluster, all black interior other than the stock eg front seats and ls rear seats.


Car is lowered on coil overs, k sport lca's, black 15" gt3's and 98-01 front end, and traction bars.


The bads:

It is salvage title, the car needs paint and has a white hood.

 

is this legit do you think??? he also said it has 11 ; 1 compression or 11 1/2... i forgot... please just let me know....

 

pmed you, I would pass on it...

 

why would you pass? hes going to have it paited for 150 bucks.... and the body is straight except for a fender and he has another one of those...

**Bump**

 

sounds like a good deal...i know i would

 

no. too expensive. salvage title. no paint. $150 paint job will be crap.

 

I wouldnt believe anything ANYONE tells you to start out with. Always inspect the car as if he is lying to you about everything. Most people are hoping you dont know anything so they fill you full of bs. First off figure out if he did swap the heads, take a compression tester with you to see if he DID change the pistions and rods. At least if you find out if it has higher compression then you know hes been inside the block and hopefully everything is fresh. I would ask for reciepts. If you test drive it make sure YOU drive it, make sure it get to operating temperature, check the oil to see if its REALLY fresh (this may mean he changed it just before he met you so you dont see any bad signs [or he adds new oil everyday]) or milky. Check the coolant see if its clean. Look for frame damage. ALSO HE SHOULD HAVE A TUNE find out where he got it tuned...

 

hey says the he just got it, and the guy he got it from had all the work done somewhere, he never got the receipts cause he was good friends with the guy who sold it to him.. and never asked for it, then he moved out of state along with the receipts, i also dont have a compression tester, and he said he just changed the oil about 500 miles ago and he forgot to change out the oil plug washer so it leaks a tad bit... he also said it has a 2 step thing with the RPM's so when you rev it goes to 4500 and bounces... he just wants someone that wont get him in trouble, and he also said hes going to pay 100 bucks on the paint that costs 250 thats why i said that, the paint isnt that bad, heres a picture of it... and the engine

<a href="http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p86/Rollinon3dms/?action=view&current=IMG00016.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p86/Rollinon3dms/IMG00016.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s126.photobucket.com/albums/p86/Rollinon3dms/?action=view&current=IMG00015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i126.photobucket.com/albums/p86/Rollinon3dms/IMG00015.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

uhm.. that didnt work... maybe this will?

 

and the engine

 

and i think its a good deal overall cause i paid 1900 for the car im trading him... i got a killer deal cause the guy thought it was going to blow up and it was just a loose spark plug hahahah so overall im payin 1900 for this car...

 

It depends. To me, its a piece of **** that has obviously been raped and beat on, and probably not done right. But to you, if the price is right and you're willing to work on it, go for it.

 

aaaalright..... bit harsh... more or less is it worth 1900 bucks?

 

he also said something about street tuned on crome?

 

you can't bore a b18c to 85mm

 

Well always be careful with other peoples builds! Not saying the guy didn't know what he was doing....just !be careful!

besides if you say you paid 1900 for your car try it but 85mmm esshhhh?

 

so you can NOT bored a B18C to 85mm? or is it nor recommended? so is that a sign that hes bs'in me?? and if it is ACTUALLY bored to that is that good??? im no ACE certified guy so i dont really know shi* about internal engine works... please let me know anything you guys can about this, like how i can tell all this work he says is actually done without taking it apart.... cause i have no tools to test any of this.... like how it sounds when it starts? the way it puts? anything... let me know.. thanks alot!!!! im about to get this at 9am tomorrow morning. so i need to know ASAP

 

do it bro car looks strait

 

Just make sure it idles right....receipts for all the parts he bought if he has.....

 

i think (correct me if im wrong) but i read that people bore out a b20 to 84.5 pushing it and some who have ***** go to 85mm but on an ls not sure if you can go tat far. please correct me ive been reading alot on ls/b20vtec builds

 

gootcha, it idled fine at first... then drove it pretty hard and then it idled pretty high before we shut it off, like around 15-16 hundred range.... is that a bad sign??? and is that an easy fix??? he said it does that after you run it real hard... and is that something that could damage the engine??? and will it effect the way it drives? im about the take a 1400 mile trip to Oregon from Arizona.....

 

there was no jumping at all, it was steady, but just a little high....

 

its definitely worth 1900 bucks

 

so what about the idle prob? got an opinion on that?

 

its bored to 85mm but it is also sleeved right?