what would cause no coolant to get to the bottom rad hose and massive overheating?

thanks

 

heat wont work either

 

check your thermostat most likely went bad

 

yea check thermostat

 

first day it ever did this is when the temp was 7 degrees outside. im thinking something froze because i kno i had a lot more water than coolant in the system and didnt prepare for winter. could that be possible?

 

your engine would have melted it(cause you still had coolant, would have been like a slushy). most likely your thermostat gave out.

 

yeah change you stat an antifreeze an your set

 

well i bled my coolant and its running through the lower rad hose now and not overheating, but still not heat. wats goin on?

 

How many times do you have to be told to change the thermostat before you listen?

Change the thermostat.

And don't buy a cheapie single-stage thermostat from a chain parts store. They never work properly. Buy an OEM Honda (Nippon Thermostat) dual-stage thermostat from the dealer. Part number 19301-P08-316; $24.

If the heat still blows cold, you've got a sticky water control valve, broken cable, or a stuck air mix door.

 

the lower wont get hot because its coming out of the radiator and it'll be cooler. this is normal

 

First thing to do for the heater is to see if the heater hoses (both of them) get hot when the engine warms up.

Next thing to do is to check the water valve operation, which is right on the firewall at the heater inlet hose. Have someone move the temperature slider back and forth, and make sure the cable is moving the valve. There is a black plastic cover over the valve, so you may have to remove that to verify valve operation.

If everything seems to work properly engine-side, then there is a problem with the heater core under the dash.

Next thing would be to check the cable that goes from the temp. slider to the bottom of the heater core box. Make sure it's connected, not kinked, and moves all the levers on the bottom of the box when you move the temp. slider. I know there is at least 1 air mix door inside the heater core box that is connected to its lever on the bottom by a screw, so make sure that screw is in there and tight.

Sorry, no pics, I'm just going from memory from when I replaced my heater core over Thanksgiving weekend.

Also, you would be very smart to flush and refill your coolant with a 50/50 mix of DISTILLED water (NOT tap water) and silicate-free coolant (like Prestone Green).

 

damn some people on here can be ********. if u read i said that it first happened in extreme cold. so i checked the hoses going to the heater core and they were frozen solid so a thermostat wasnt needed.

taga250r, ur not anyones mom so be helpful, sarcastic comments arent needed on here

 

I don't follow your line of thinking, what do the frozen solid lines have to do with the thermostat? I think I'd have to agree with the others on this one, sounds like a bad thermostat to me.

The sarcasm you interpret could be mistaken for frustration since it seems like you're asking the same question without trying the most recommended solution, the thermostat.

 

i had the same problem and guess what it was the stat..... dude change it out and you'll be gravy

 

This happen to me today and it wasnt the thermostat. To much water in the antifreeze. It froze my heater core. 20mins of driving before i got heat.

 

The OP complained of massive overheating too, a frozen heater core wouldn't cause that. Also, you should add some anti-freeze before your block freezes and cracks.

 

the thermostat and heater core lines were frozen bc of too much water in the antifreeze. i put my car in my garage last night and this morning, both problems were non existent

 

I'll be curious to see how this plays out after you drive it a few more days. Even though the thermostat was supposedly frozen, the ice/slush around it should've melted WAY before the car started to overheat. I have a ScanGuage II and my water temp is consistently around 200 degrees. Ice in 200 degree water doesn't last very long, definitely not long enough for the car to overheat.

Assuming I'm wrong and you really did have that much ice in the system, I would start checking for leaks because I can't see how if your system was frozen that solidly the ice didn't cause something else to crack. Hopefully it didn't dislodge a freeze plug....

Finally, how long had it been since you had driven the car? Even in 20 degree weather, it would take at least a couple days for the water in your system to freeze.

 

it sat overnight in -30 degree weather. water freezes extremely fast in that, when i was driving with no heat that morning, i had a sweet tea freeze completely by the time i got to school 20 mins away. there are no leaks in my system, i checked everything...just extreme cold

 

You had a sweet tea completely freeze in 20 minutes while it was sitting inside your car? I just looked on my chemistry chart and that means it was -43 inside your car.

Whatever it was, glad it's fixed.

 

This thread stinks like BS

 

wow people take this **** so literal when im trying to prove a point. it was frozen enough that i only got a few sips and the rest was solid. it hit -12 norm and -30 with windchill that day. ice cold air was coming through my vents the whole drive to my school.

why does everyone feel like they have to prove someone wrong on honda-tech. yes its weird and not usual but it did happen since i had almost no antifreeze in my radiator. i havent had a problem since the temps here went back up to 0 degrees. i live in ohio so believe it.

Thread.

 

As far as taking things literally, this is tech and tech problems are generally straight questions, not hyperbole or exaggeration.

I think this thread is more or less worthless to others because of the exaggerations, whether you're talking about your tea, the actual temp, the initial problem, etc.

So, if anyone is having a similar problem, disregard this thread and keep searching.

 

It's not that unhelpful... now I know to change the 'stat with top hot bottom cold. Thank you all!