RMS b series vband manifold
Finally got around to building the b series vband manifold. This manifold def presented a whole host of new problems even tho it looks very similar to the t3 flanged manifold. Manifold is 100% purged as always...I know I said this on the last post but this is my best work yet. Gt3582r going on this mani....pics




























No TIG gloves? I always start to smell the hair burning on my hands when I don't wear gloves, and I don't want skin cancer 
Anyway that collector looks amazing, its soooo smooth on the inside! You must have a lot of grinding time into that. What did you use, a carbide bit?
And no problems with the Vband flange warping without clamping it to the heatsink when welding?

Anyway that collector looks amazing, its soooo smooth on the inside! You must have a lot of grinding time into that. What did you use, a carbide bit?
And no problems with the Vband flange warping without clamping it to the heatsink when welding?
I use a carbide first then move to stones then to sanding gear.....
The collector was sitting on an aluminum heatsink during welding. Thx
The collector was sitting on an aluminum heatsink during welding. Thx
Trending Topics
It makes me sad to see this kind of manifold. It makes me want to have this one built, but I know that would be absolutely insane for me to come up there again just for a v-band connector haha. Looks great as usual! Ryan definitely takes care of his customers!
.
.
.
.
.
Not to hijack your ****, but could you do me a favor? If you see '06+ R6 bikes up your way whenever you're out, ask them if they want an HID retrofit. I'm trying to get some 7075 aluminum CNCd for the lights and an actual plastic mold made for the dust caps. Cincy is only so big haha.
.
.
.
.
.
Not to hijack your ****, but could you do me a favor? If you see '06+ R6 bikes up your way whenever you're out, ask them if they want an HID retrofit. I'm trying to get some 7075 aluminum CNCd for the lights and an actual plastic mold made for the dust caps. Cincy is only so big haha.
lol Dunc you make me laugh...
I only make 1 pass theres no need 2 make 2 passes IMO. There are only a few spots on the entire manifold that are A LITTLE low and thats fine w me. The puddles are perfectly clean and backpurged almost 100% penetration. I try not to come up all the way to the very top and "crest" the weld because you will lose puddle control.
I've gotten a lot of pm's of people asking me about penetration and "weld appearance" technique. I will suggest to everyone that you need to WELD SLOW. I usually see guys weld way too fast and they wonder why the welds looks blue and gray. This 304 ss that everyone uses is very tough to penetrate threw but once you penetrate you have to stay on top of the heat ESP when you stop and restart. I try and use less heat but move slower. You will maintain better control over the puddle and penetrate better. Now you will still build up heat so you might need to stop in shorter distances but the overral finished product is much much nicer. Thx guys.
Waiting on Slowmotion Motorsports for the Manley/Wiseco built block. Throwing a ported b16 head with Mazworx cams. Should be a fun car.
I only make 1 pass theres no need 2 make 2 passes IMO. There are only a few spots on the entire manifold that are A LITTLE low and thats fine w me. The puddles are perfectly clean and backpurged almost 100% penetration. I try not to come up all the way to the very top and "crest" the weld because you will lose puddle control.
I've gotten a lot of pm's of people asking me about penetration and "weld appearance" technique. I will suggest to everyone that you need to WELD SLOW. I usually see guys weld way too fast and they wonder why the welds looks blue and gray. This 304 ss that everyone uses is very tough to penetrate threw but once you penetrate you have to stay on top of the heat ESP when you stop and restart. I try and use less heat but move slower. You will maintain better control over the puddle and penetrate better. Now you will still build up heat so you might need to stop in shorter distances but the overral finished product is much much nicer. Thx guys.
Waiting on Slowmotion Motorsports for the Manley/Wiseco built block. Throwing a ported b16 head with Mazworx cams. Should be a fun car.
Little off Topic but I had a question for you Ryan. What welder are you currently using? I am going to be purchasing a machine and I wanted others opinions. My 2 choices are the SW200 and Dynasty 200DX. If I'm not mistaken, your either using a Thermal ARC or Lincoln 185.
I use a MillerLX350 and a lincoln 185 although they dont make the lincoln anymore only the 225. I would listen to the guys who have used both and go with the dynasty. Guess you gotta use price, features, and other stuff they include in your decision.
I aint made of money Dunc! Waiting on slowmotion for the engine then were dropping off the trans and pickin up motor mounts. No more crappy inserts.....
If you keep the turbo clocked with the inlet facing forward, how much clearance is inbetween the turbo and block....enough room for a downpipe? would the dipstick be in the way?.....man if everything clears like that, it would make for a nasty A/W cooler setup




looks awesome! your manifolds are great every time!


