Got done installing a new transmission in my CRX and now the thing barely / won't start.

I got it to start once after a lot of effort and it ran real rough for a few seconds and then died again. It makes almost a scraping noise when trying to turn over and barely wants to.

Someone have an idea of what I've ****ed up?

 

mine is having the exact same problem...just got it all back together too and now this

 

ground??? as for the noise.....maybe a loose transmission cover on the bottom or the starter not installed right???

 

I'll try checking the starter. If it was a ground I don't think it would turn over.

 

Maybe you have the clutch installed wrong and it is dragging which is causing a slow turnover. Make sure you can roll the car in gear with the clutch depressed. Another thing could be a bad ground creating a resistance of some kind.

 

i pulled my motor and tranny when i blew the tranny and when i finally put it back in it did the same thing and i just kept on it for a minute and it started, ran rough for a second and then finally cleared up and was perfect

 

I was wondering if I didn't install the friction plate wrong. I installed the thicker side that sticks out towards the pressure plate, which is what you're supposed to do but I don't know if it didn't line up properly if that would cause the sort of issue I'm having. I did use the alignment tool and make sure I bolted down everything centered.

With regards to getting it to run and then keeping it running, it really had a lot of resistance. I didn't put it back on the ground yet because I wanted to see if it would work up on jack stands; which it isn't seeming to. I'll try putting it in neutral and seeing if it'll roll freely and then try it in gear with the clutch engaged.

 

If you didnt align it properly the transmission would have never went on easy. Unless you got it close to on and just used the bolts to mate them together.

 

It's retarded how important the trans ground is on Hondas. I would suggest you check that. Every single time I did a trans, if it wasn't perfect, it wouldn't go on. Are you sure the problems are not arising from the new trans?

 

r u getting power to everything else?? but just seems like the starter signal isnt there?
if so i would check for the trans ground like shaggyeg6si said, trans ground is very important, i cant remember how many times i've done this when i was first doing r & r's.
hope this helps, and let us know on the updates.

 

It was a son of a bitch just to get it in there past the radius bar; I got the transmission up to the last probably half an inch mated with the block. From there I used the bolts to mate them together, working in sequence around the transmission to keep everything pretty even.

You mean the ground attached to the clutch cable bracket? It looks pretty frayed but it was working okay before. I guess I could try wrapping it or pull out the multimeter and test the ends.

As far as the new trans goes, unless I f'd something up real good on the install, shouldn't be the issue. I had a garage toss in an OBX LSD I had laying around, and the inside of the transmission looked damn near new. I didn't check clearances on everything, but it all looked clean.

Starter signal is there, it just felt weak. Like it was meeting serious resistance trying to turn over; when it finally did turn over enough to start (prior to old transmission dying it was like 2 turns of the starter and it'd be on), it still felt like there was a lot of resistance and that led to it dying.

I'm headed back to my dads in about an hour and a half to tinker with it, so I'll get back to you all with an update then. Thanks for all the suggestions so far!

 

UPDATE!

The gear tree doesn't feel right; it's hard to find the gears and generally just feels off. I hooked up the bitch pin with a bolt, and everything should be connected okay as far as the linkage is concerned.

I got it started by hooking up jumper cables to the battery, it ran pretty rough but I could get it to idle by giving it a bit of gas. I put the car into what should be first gear, and the driverside wheel moves but the passengerside does nothing.

It makes a bucking noise when I let out on the clutch.

As I mentioned previously, I had an OBX LSD installed into the thing; does this mean the differential is f^ked?

 

With the clutch pressed in the driverside wheel moves fine.

The passengerside axle is locked with the clutch pressed or not. It won't budge.

 

Did you unhook the thermostat ground ?

 

I'd hop down to your local best buy and see if you cant buy a ground cable off one of the techs. Replace that ground just incase. The LSD should still work like a regular diff, except during acceleration where it locks. Are both tires lifted off the ground when you try moving? Am I right when I assume this is the situation, you took the trans off, took it to a shop to install the diff, and now you put it back in? All the same trans, not a new trans.

 

if you have a bolt where the bitch pin goes then the gears are gonna feel sloppy. no matter how close size is to the hole size it will have play in it.

with the starting issue its the ground. when i had my single cam in my ef even with a good ground wire and a clean connection it would barely turn over hooked to the tranny. i finally ran it directly to the starter bolt and it started like a champ from then on

 

Nope.

Both tires were off the ground when I tried moving it. The old transmission had the differential explode and destroy the case, so I took the spare YS1 tranny I had and the OBX LSD I'd picked up, had a shop install the diff, and put the new trans in.

Good to know. I'll keep that in mind after I work out the axle issue I'm having.

 

I'd complain to the shop that installed the diff.

 

I posted in the beginning of this thread that i was having the same problem, fixed it today. Turns out I had the wrong pressure plate in there, my car is an 88 and my HF trans was from a 1990, i just bought a 90 clutch disc thinking it could work. I installed a pressure plate from a 90 today and the car works perfectly fine now.

OP, check your pressure plate

 

Wait, you had one wheel move fine and the other siezed completely, and a pressure plate solved that issue?

That doesn't sound right at all.

 

no I didn't have the wheel seize, bt I had the no start/sluggish crank and loud noise once it fired. my wheels would spin freely only in neutral