Vtech in a crv
people have been putting crv b20's in civics/integras but anybody know how to get a b16a b16b or b18c motor in a crv and keep the awd there was this crv a while back that had a b18 vtec motor in it with a turbo so I know its possible but I was trying to find out how much work would be involved and how much stock stuff can be used????
Last edited by Hood4real; Jan 9, 2009 at 02:34 PM.
people have been putting crv b20's in civics/integras but anybody know how to get a b161 b16b or b18c motor in a crv and keep the awd there was this crv a while back that had a b18 vtech motor in it with a turbo so I know its possible but I was trying to find out how much work would be involved and how much stock stuff can be used????
not to be smart but I know I typed it wrong but I fail to see why 1 misspelled letter of a word thats not even in the dictionary has anything to do with what I asked????? You knew what I meant. But I would appreciate it if you would have told me something about what I asked. and I am also sure I misspelled some other words, used improper grammer, and sentence structure, but I am sure you got the point of what I was asking, I am just not sure of why you would reply in a post something thats not helping?????? or that has anything to do with what the topic wuz
Its a b series, they will all bolt to the tranny. I'm not sure how high the crv tranny is geared but it might render vtec useless. Just make sure you get a ecu to match your transmission. You may want to consider doing a b20vtec, you need all the torque you can get
The CRV with B18C6+Turbo is (was) mine.
It's more likly plug'n'play installation. Just use the driverside engine mount from the B20. You have to modify the lower Power Steeringpump Braket to make it fit (just cut).
From what i can remember back, the rest was untouched.
It's more likly plug'n'play installation. Just use the driverside engine mount from the B20. You have to modify the lower Power Steeringpump Braket to make it fit (just cut).
From what i can remember back, the rest was untouched.


what kinda wiring issues did you have and was yours awd cause the one I was looking at is but the motor sounds and runs a little hurt for me which is why I think its for sale so cheap $2500
Trending Topics
No, sorry.
Mine is blue, too, but more sleep look than this one. I posted it several times in HT, so i thought you was talking about mine.
Anyway, mine was with a B18C6 Engine (ITR) + Turbo.
Mine is blue, too, but more sleep look than this one. I posted it several times in HT, so i thought you was talking about mine.Anyway, mine was with a B18C6 Engine (ITR) + Turbo.
im also wishing/waiting to do this on my crv..
ITR or GSR head, i had a qoute it will
cost me around 2-3k for the conversion (depends on what head),
3-4k for the plus..(PP, cams,dyno tuning,the works!..etc)
im just filling the funds then im goin for it this summer..
ITR or GSR head, i had a qoute it will
cost me around 2-3k for the conversion (depends on what head),
3-4k for the plus..(PP, cams,dyno tuning,the works!..etc)
im just filling the funds then im goin for it this summer..
I thought about that but it supposed so be a parts car for work and the motor feels a lil hurt so i want to rebuild it I figured it would be cool to pop the hood and see vtec in something thats not supposed 2 have it, I am thinking a b20 vtec rebuild would be the best way since thats whats in it just got to figure out the wiring and how to make the stock cpu to run it and the awd. any cpu or wiring guru,s got any tricks
I thought about that but it supposed so be a parts car for work and the motor feels a lil hurt so i want to rebuild it I figured it would be cool to pop the hood and see vtec in something thats not supposed 2 have it, I am thinking a b20 vtec rebuild would be the best way since thats whats in it just got to figure out the wiring and how to make the stock cpu to run it and the awd. any cpu or wiring guru,s got any tricks
You will also loose around 100 lbs.
Well, i was thinking of adding a vtec head to mine too but its an automatic.. And from what i can tell the automatic ECU also controls the tranny.. So how would i make that work??
To control Vtec just install a small shift light and wire the vtec solenoid to the light. Or you could spend a few bucks and buy a vtec controller.
I'm going to be doing the same thing to mine once my home buying funds recover.
I'm going to be doing the same thing to mine once my home buying funds recover.
Lots of bad info and some good info mixed in as well.
First if your CRV is a 5 speed like mine you do not have to worry about super long gears bogging the motor down. Gear ratios are very similar to the 99-00 Civic Si S4C B16 transmission. Very close ratios with a 4.5 FD. It has a slightly longer 5th gear which helps to lower the highway rpms to a tolerable level.
If it is an automatic then you are ok there as well. It will bolt onto any b series block as well.
Make sure you swap over the flex plate, torque converter and use the proper flex plate bolts. Manual flywheel bolts are longer.
The best way to control the engine is to use an OBD2 to OBD1 jumper harness with a Chipped OBD1 PCM. With an shift light and rpm based switch or vtec control all you are doing is activating the pressure switch to lock the rockers into the high lift mode. YOU ARE NOT CHANGING FUEL OR IGNITION TIMING WITH A SWITCH. Therefore all you are doing is getting louder, not going faster and dangerously leaning out your A/F ratio and may experience detonation and or catastrophic engine failure.
Another alternative would be to use a OBD2 A or B PCM from a Acura Integra GSR or Type R and bypass the immobilizer. You will not be able to reprogram these but you wont need an adapter harness either. I would not recommend a OBD Civic Si PCM because unless you are swapping in a B16 which would be completely pointless in a 4800lb vehicle, it will also lean out your A/F ratio.
The OBD2 PCM does not control the automatic transmission in a CRV. That is a seperate module and should not be effected by switching PCMs.
I would recommend a straight GSR engine swap or just a Vtec head conversion if your block is healthy. I would recommend upgrading the rodbolts for increased strength as that engine wasn't made for high rpm. You need a torque to get the CRV going, not high rpms.
The AWD on the CRV is controlled by a viscous coupling and has no form of electronic engagement whatsoever. The VTM-4 system and SH-AWD systems are the only 4WD systems Honda offers with electronic controls and they are not compatible with Crv drivetrains.
I am a Honda Technician so I hope you will take this as credible fact and well informed opinion. I spent a good amount of time to reply so I hope you heed my words, and good luck a Vtec Crv will be lots of fun.
First if your CRV is a 5 speed like mine you do not have to worry about super long gears bogging the motor down. Gear ratios are very similar to the 99-00 Civic Si S4C B16 transmission. Very close ratios with a 4.5 FD. It has a slightly longer 5th gear which helps to lower the highway rpms to a tolerable level.
If it is an automatic then you are ok there as well. It will bolt onto any b series block as well.
Make sure you swap over the flex plate, torque converter and use the proper flex plate bolts. Manual flywheel bolts are longer.
The best way to control the engine is to use an OBD2 to OBD1 jumper harness with a Chipped OBD1 PCM. With an shift light and rpm based switch or vtec control all you are doing is activating the pressure switch to lock the rockers into the high lift mode. YOU ARE NOT CHANGING FUEL OR IGNITION TIMING WITH A SWITCH. Therefore all you are doing is getting louder, not going faster and dangerously leaning out your A/F ratio and may experience detonation and or catastrophic engine failure.
Another alternative would be to use a OBD2 A or B PCM from a Acura Integra GSR or Type R and bypass the immobilizer. You will not be able to reprogram these but you wont need an adapter harness either. I would not recommend a OBD Civic Si PCM because unless you are swapping in a B16 which would be completely pointless in a 4800lb vehicle, it will also lean out your A/F ratio.
The OBD2 PCM does not control the automatic transmission in a CRV. That is a seperate module and should not be effected by switching PCMs.
I would recommend a straight GSR engine swap or just a Vtec head conversion if your block is healthy. I would recommend upgrading the rodbolts for increased strength as that engine wasn't made for high rpm. You need a torque to get the CRV going, not high rpms.
The AWD on the CRV is controlled by a viscous coupling and has no form of electronic engagement whatsoever. The VTM-4 system and SH-AWD systems are the only 4WD systems Honda offers with electronic controls and they are not compatible with Crv drivetrains.
I am a Honda Technician so I hope you will take this as credible fact and well informed opinion. I spent a good amount of time to reply so I hope you heed my words, and good luck a Vtec Crv will be lots of fun.
Last edited by NA_DA; Jan 17, 2009 at 06:38 PM.
Well here is mine that is AWD manual and is b20/vtec. I used a 95 gsr head and I am doing a cheat/ crappy hack for vtec right now and just using a VAFC with the STOCK ECU and changed some of the fuel curves and so on. By the way the 98 is actually OBD2b NOT OBD2a.... I found this out by replacing my stock b20 harness and using my 98 GSR harness and getting ready to plug in my 98 gsr ecu and whola... The plugs were wrong for the ecu.... NOW I KNOW I could have left the harness in place but I also had another dilemma to deal with. The b20 distributor is different plugs than the vtec one also... I went to put on my new distributor too cause the hack leg b20 distributor was leaking.... and the guy sold me a BUNK one.... Back to the b20 harness, ecu and distributor I went.
I am getting ready to put on my skunk2 manifold, ITR cams and some cam gears, and 99 si harness with 99si ecu and I will be using the VAFC for small tune for now. I have boost in mind but not sure I wanna mess with the daily driver. I also am using a 99si gauge cluster and I have completely gutted my V from the 98 interior and now have 2001 interior. I just added the roof rack and it used to be black. Just painted it NHP-51 I think is the code.....championship white.....





Oh yeah and the engine bay does not look like a rats nest anymore.... I was working through some wiring issues that day. When I got it she had a cracked head and a blown headgasket and leaking heater core. Needless to say I did a lot of work on her.
I am getting ready to put on my skunk2 manifold, ITR cams and some cam gears, and 99 si harness with 99si ecu and I will be using the VAFC for small tune for now. I have boost in mind but not sure I wanna mess with the daily driver. I also am using a 99si gauge cluster and I have completely gutted my V from the 98 interior and now have 2001 interior. I just added the roof rack and it used to be black. Just painted it NHP-51 I think is the code.....championship white.....





Oh yeah and the engine bay does not look like a rats nest anymore.... I was working through some wiring issues that day. When I got it she had a cracked head and a blown headgasket and leaking heater core. Needless to say I did a lot of work on her.
Last edited by db1b18c; Feb 9, 2009 at 07:29 PM.
ok maybe a dumb question so far i can't find anything anyway. but i was at the honda dealer in my town it was probably 4 years ago and i seen like a 98 crv and it said on the paper work in the window it was VTEC. im kicking myself now for not popping the hood but is it true did some come with a B20 vtec stock ?





