Well after running the Competition Stage 5- Unsprung Clutch/non-upgraded Pressure plate on my car for 2 years now, I think Im going to upgrade to a Twin.

The stage 5 never slipped, at 450whp/300 tq for the street and 493whp/340 tq at the track.
Launching at 7000+ with my 24.5x8.5x13 slicks, it held up great!

Just worried that now It is going to start to get to its full potential and start to be a problem as I look for more power.. Around the 550+ range.


I want to know what the best twins are. Im talking customer service, durability, price.. etc etc. I want to know that if something does happen, I wont have a paper weight.. But, like anyone, Im looking for some of the best prices too.

Right now, Im thinking Tilton is the best option. But what are the majority of the 450+ whp people runnin?

Tilton
Clutch Masters
Exedy
Competition
Spec
others??

Lets hear it!

 

Competition Clutch seems to be the most popular twin dish amongst the higher powered boys.

 

Whats also nice about the comp twin is that there is 3 different pressure plates to choose from. So i guess u can go with something alittle lighter(pedal pressure) since u drive the car on the street.

 

carbon carbon clutches seems to work well for protecting your gearbox from going boom...soft engagements

 

a friend of mine had a brand new comp twin in his car for 2 pass's and the pressure plate got messed up.

also had an exedy in for a dyno session and a pass, it started slipping bad

Tilton is the way to go. i used a ceremetallic in a ~500hp street car for a few months, then in an 800hp racecar on 28's, then in my own racecar and it did not slip at all, enguagement was great.

we have since switched to Tilton Carbon/Carbon's in both hotrod cars. been using them for a few years now with awsome results.

 

I've got a question for you (OP), did you have any clutch slip before you changed discs? Seems like you had real good luck with just upgrading the disc, and I could find myself in a similar situation soon.

If you don't want to off topic your thread, maybe you could IM me?

Thanks! ! !

 

Negative.

Tilton you can get many different options to suite your needs. Their customer service is good and quality is top notch. I have been using a tilton clutch for many years with no issues.

 

550 to the wheels is what i am going for.. and i see people that are using comp stage 5 clutches with the upgraded pressure plate with no problem.. but i am wondering the same question... what do i do... cause the tilton's are a lot of money..

 

We sell a good amount of the competition twins through the shop. They are super cheap to rebuild, and parts are readily available for them. The ability to have different pressure plate options on them also make it nice to "size" the clutch to the application its being used for. We had over 150 passes on our old power street car at 600whp level with the comp twin with no issues. Ran the "c" version of the pressure plate (highest torque capacity) on our crx drag car last season with about 40-50 passes in the 155-160 mph range with zero issues. The biggest thing with the comp clutches is that they need to have a clutch stop added under the clutch pedal to prevent over extending the pressure plate fingers. Takes about 10-20 minutes to make one up and set it up properly.

We occasionally sell the exedy twin disks, but have used them in the past. Pedal pressure and drivability was similar to the comp "a" pressure plate twin disk. They dont require a clutch stop. They are significantly more expensive to rebuild, and rebuild parts are a bit harder to get ahold of. They are also a few hundred more than the comp twin in comparison. They are an excellent made product though.

Tilton stuff is quality, like anything that they make. Pricing is a bit more than the exedy. Customer service and parts availability are excellent. Have not used much of their stuff on customers builds due to price.

The biggest thing that you'll notice switching from a single plate to a twin plate clutch is how much easier it is to shift at high rpms. Makes a very noticeable difference, and usually drops e.t a little bit.

 

I beg to differ, I will let the HT users speak for themselves. I did not say the SFWD crowd, I said the higher powered boys.

 

a clutch stop is to be added to the car.. i have never heard of that.. but what is it exactly?? how much are they and how do you make them if you don't sell the kit.. thanks.. but i am not a person that like to buy cheap stuff.. but i mean.. i don't comp stuff. is a good brand... and they do stand behind there products... if i end up making my stage 5 com p clutch slip.. i will try out the comp twin disc..

does anybody run these on the street.. i am not the one to be driving the hell out of my car all the time.. but how long do they last on normal driving around town... and things like that... i mean people use them for passes.. does anybody know how much miles can you run on the comp twin disc's before a rebuild... maybe a estimate...

 

pedal stop is installed on your clutch pedal to keep it from going down to far. they are simply made with a piece of angle, bolt, and nuts (adjustable stop)


SDlurker, your point is invalid. if people are going to buy stuff, they are most likely going to want to run what works for the fastest cars in the country, these cars are not just "dyno queen higher hp guys"... these are profesional race teams/people that ask the most from their setups, and that will perform them time and time again without a hicup. this "clutch" question does not only apply to "honda people". a clutch is a clutch, when a companys product are used in many forms of autosports, the light is easy to see.

 

I have only run comp slutches in my car and have NEVER had any issues with them. I used the stage 5 kit to include the flywheel and made over 700 with it and ran it for over a year, no issues. its actually in a 300hp integra right now still alive and kicking, what saved me was my tq on that clutch, my motor seemed to only make about 440 in tq(by my dyno) it did show signs of wear but that is to be expected

I run thier twin disc creamic clucth and the pedal is a tad hard but it works for me.


my question is why change to a twin disc when the stage 5 is a great price and is working and you arent really gonna push it up the HP that much

 

I run stage 5 for 650WHP. I switched from twin disc to singe disc. 550whp should not be a problem for a single.

 

A clutch stop is just a stop that goes under the clutch pedal. It should be adjustable so that you can adjust the pedal travel. I usually just drill a hole in the floor under the clutch pedal, tack weld a nut over the hole and use a bolt that has a head on it so that the pedal "hits" the head of the bolt to stop. I also use a jam nut so that the bolt cannot loosen up.

As far as longevity, that really depends on how much abuse the clutch sees. I have a local customer that daily drives his and has around 2x,xxx miles on it. He runs mid-high 10's on pump gas, and drag races his car at test and tune nights almost every weekend in the spring/summer/fall. He is making mid 500whp, and about 350tq. He could probably get away with a single disk clutch, but was having high rpm lock out. I have had a customer that had the twin disk last around 30-40 hard passes at the track and 2-3,000 street miles but was making more torque than what the pressure plate was rated.

Some people hate the way twin disk clutches engage and drive, others dont mind it. You do have to change the way you slip/release the clutch pedal in order to have "smooth" shifts driving around town. Its nothing dramatic.

 

yea, Its probably fine on street tires, what about slicks?

well, I wont be pushing it that much, but Id like to have the bigger clutch when needed.

 

I am running a ACT Maxx extreme plate with a 6 puck unsprung. I made 606whp and 450tq. It dident slip yet. This clutch was my power street clutch going on year 4 now. I dont plan on going to higher HP levels. So i am going to stick with it. for less then 500. It seemed to hold up pretty good. Its hard to get feedback on different clutch because everyone drives there clutches different. I dont slip my clutch ever. Its always a smooth side step hah

 

i have been beating the hell out of my exedy for 3 years now. i know in the future i am facing a rebuild, but she is still holding 500 ft/lb wtq.

 

My CC stage 5 was usedon my 10.0 pass on 25inch M&Hs and used for a year or so on my 24.5s running mid 10s, i really dont see an issue with you running one for what you want to do

 

i had cc stage 5 few years ago, and it went out in 6 or so passes making 550ish on my old bseries setup

assuming its bseries, if K i wouldnt even look into cc

 

you obviously had the upgraded PP?

 

i've used my cc stage 5 clutch at over 420 ftlbs on my gt30r setup, and never had any issues driving on the street everyday at 300ftlbs/486whp. standard pp. my buddy also had 40-50 passes low 11's/high 10's around 500whp and 10k miles of street use without any issues on his. keep the stage 5 until its necessary.

before my 30r setup i had a 35r setup 600+whp 416 ftlbs, exedy twin disk and it sucked on the street, I, along with my transmission, were much happier with the CC stage 5 for street use. no harm in trying to keep it.

 

ok, so Im thinking just buying the Competition stage 5 upgraded PP and the competition flywheel.. seeing how it holds up..

 

I have an exedy twi with mine... love it. A couple of my friends used CC.... no issues, but as mentioned, needs a pedal stop. Tilton is ****..... hands down. We tried SPEC twin disc before... sorry to say but it was garbage.....