so i have a 400hp crx that i daily drive the problem is i keep ripping cv boots im just running the lifetime warrenty axles from the local auto parts store

does anyone have this problem? i was thinkin about wrapping the new boots in a thin layer of duct tape (ghetto i know) to prevent the boots not to expand and ripping so much while driving

any help would be great.. thanks

 

what axles are you running and what is your setup as far as motor/trans?

 

car quest axles havent had any problems with them breakins just the boots suck

and the motor is a golden eagle sleeved b16 and b16 cable tranny

 

Its just something your gonna have to deal with, I rip my replacements every 1k-2k miles, just put a new set in the other day.

 

there has to be something that i can do...

i had 1 boot on each side bust within the first week of putting the axles in

 

i have the same problem i run autozones and they do the same thing...is anyone on aftermarket axles do they do the same too...

 

what is causing them to rip? is it the inner or outer boot? hp shouldnt have anything to do with it, but maybe if you lube them with silicone so when they bind up while turning there is less friction between the ribs it might help.

 

there is something that can be done, run OEM Axles or buy good ones.

 

but i think the rubber isnt any different then the oem or aftermarket is it cause the boot is just dry rooting maybe like you said lube them up and maybe the will do something..

 

not dry rottening there brand new and there the inner and outter

 

anyone else?

 

i think its somthing to do with stock axle boot and spining them to fast , i has this happen on most of my customer cars if there over 400whp

 

is it boot position? maybe you can push the boot ends closer together so that when they turn or expand they have less tension.

 

You can go 120mph with 125whp or 400whp...the wheels turn at the same rpm right? Maybe the rate of the rpms increasing with bigger hp is what's doing it. Or shitty rubber, or too much grease.

This happens to MOST of your customers?

 

idk about trusting any axles from advance auto/auto zone/o'reileys, etc. most of them (*not all) claim that their remanufactured as brand new. all they're doing is sending them in and having them "rebuilt". so in reality, if you're doing so at the right rate, you could just be buying your same old axles over and over again, as they seem to be breaking the same way.

i've known a couple of people (some with stockish setups, some with powerful setups like yours) who solved the problem just by running a BRAND NEW OEM (yes, as in from honda) axle and greasing it up properly.

 

ive had this happen...its usually caused by lowering the car and changing the angle of the cv shaft...this causes the rubber boot to tweak and rub against each other and prematurely ripping...its usually the inner boot that rips. the only thing to do i guess it to raise the car.

 

some reason only the ones who have 400whp+ that use the car as a DD.

I dont think its nothing to do with the speed its more of the line of the rate of the rpm increasing with so much grease in them makes them try to exspand and end up busting out , if the rubber was made better we know it could not happen

 

if you got enough money to make 400hp reliably on a DD, then you have enough money to buy a decent set of OE axles....quit being a cheap *** and cough up the dough....keep those other axles laying around for when you snap one at the track and need to get home

 

The moly grease is going to do what? Stay more stationary? At 120mph constant, you have mre centrifugal force holding the grease outwards than accellerating with 500whp at 110mph. Learn the laws of physics, then you can talk about that.

The main problem is people with 400whp tend to ruin axles more easily, therefor use cheaper axles. Dumping your car like it's 1998 is another BIG issue. When you change the axle angle to one it wasn't designed to work at, bad things are bound to happen.


Things you can do - don't make super-sharp low-speed turns. That really stretches the boots. Next, set your car to a realistic drive height. Any amount of 'tucking' is problem-creator, mechanicly-speaking. Most important: get yourself some OEM boots - they are $21 per set (4 needed total) from Hondapartsdeals.com - they should work with your remfg'd axles - make sure you get the bands too, and know how to install them. Most auto places use the CHEAPEST rubber they can get away with - it will last as long as a irish wolfhound's chew toy.

 

How low is the car? If the car is super dumped the axle angles ARE off. Do you have high quality motor mounts? If you have a cheap brand of motor mounts the engine may not be placed properly causing axle bind. Do you have a camber kit installed? If your car is low and you have a camber kit you may be leaning the hubs out so far that you're stretching the boots. Also a traction bar or some ES radius rod bushings will help keep your suspension from flexing as far and help with axle binding/boot tearing.

 

I just recently got some new ones from autozone, they told me they are no longer using rebuilt axles and they didnt need my old ones back, and they looked much better than the rebuilt ones I was getting.

 

95-98 stay dummped ftw. I having the same problem with some aftermarket race axles. Not saying names but they have red boots. They keep ripping the boot on stock hight. lsvt. But they replace them. Going to throw some oem stock ones in to see if its a bad mount. But I doubt it a mount because everything seems right. Never had a problem with oem thou.

 

the car is lowered but not slammed or tucking its lower in the back and higher in the front due to the big m/t radials i have a camber kit all the way a round and its aligned

if it was due to sharp turning or the car being lowered why are the inner's ripping also?

so has anyone thought about wrapping one layer of duct tape or something similar around the boots to prevent this

yes im indeed a cheapass....but only on axles