Hey there im pretty new to swaps, i just recently obtained an LS swap, came with "everything needed" to toss this bad boy into my CRX, im just curious, what all do i need .
Will the Motor mounts from the integra work in my CRX?, will the shift linkage fit right up into my CRX? i dont know all of what id have to do, i found a few threads, said you have to have a modified shift linkage but honestly i didnt find too much helpful stuff, LMK guys

 

You will need

Aftermarket mounts : Hasport or Avid are the best out there
Aftermarket shift linkage : Hasport
You can use 90-93 integra axles
Depending on what model CRX you have you might have to convert your car from dpfi to mpfi
90-91 Integra ECU
90-91 Integra Distibutor

 

90-91 ECU and Distributor if it's an obd0 ls if obd2 92-93 ecu or 94-95 if it's a b18b like mine, hasport shift linkage is the better option but if you're broke you can cut the integra shift linkage and weld it to you're needed length. good luck

 

92-95 is obd1 not obd2. if he uses a 92-95 distributor and ecu, he'd have to convert to obd1 though. a lot of extra work for not that much of a gain just going with an LS swap.

 

i kno its not obd2 i mistyped it sorry. obd1 conversion isn't much work. and i was just saying because neither u or i kno whether his swap is a 90-91 b18a 92-93 b18a or 94-01 b18b. for example i have a 96 b18b but im running an obd1 dizzy and obd1 pr4 though id run a lot better with an obd1 p75

 

that's why i put in my 1st post that no matter which motor he had, he would need the 90-91 ecu and distributor. even with the 92-93 or 94-01, you can still use the obd0 distributor and ecu to keep it obd0. with those everything would be plug and play with no extra needed wiring for, again, minimal gains on an ls swap. to me, personally it's not worth the money to buy the sub harness or the trouble of the extra wiring just to convert to obd1. but to each his own.

 

also need a rear t bracket

 

it was worth it for me, i felt the difference in the "minimal gains" i specially felt the difference when my boy let me rock his p75 for a day. all in all if you're gonna do something don't half-*** it.

 

check the "FAQ" page, there are a lot of step-by-step how to's in there.

 

what's "half-***" about doing an obd0 swap in an obd0 car? the b18b is rated at 12hp more than the b18a. and the main reason the b18b is rated at 12 hp more than the b18a is from the better flowing head. you would still have the better flowing head if you had a b18b and kept it obd0. granted it would run better by converting to obd1 because that is the ecu that was programmed for the b18b, but you're talking maybe 4-5 crank hp difference. after that gets to the wheels your looking at maybe 1-2 wheel hp difference. so if you can tell a difference in 1-2 whp, then you've got something most people don't. and yes 1-2 whp is minimal gains to me.

oh yea and just so you don't think i'm posting this without any first hand knowledge of it, i had an 89 crx with a b18b that was obd0 and a friend of mine had a 91 crx with a b18b that was obd1 and my times were better than his. the only difference between the two was that I had a skunk2 IM and TB, and he had a b16 tranny and i had the ls tranny. other than that we both had the usual bolt-ons of intake, header, and exhaust.

 

granted it would run better by converting to obd1 because that is the ecu that was programmed for the b18b --- that's the half *** part of it, and i would assume u have knowledge since ur in the EF forum and nothing u sed was incorrect, skunk2 IM and TB make a huge difference bro b16 tranny doesn't make that much of a difference in my opinion since my boy has a b16 tranny on his **** and doesnt pull by much, b18c's make 16whp with a aem v2 as an example, just imagine what an intake manifold and throttle body can unleash, anyway i hope ur not getting mad as i consider this a good *discussion* not *argument*

 

me neither, nothing said so far have I taken as rude. I consider this a good discussion too. however i don't agree with you on the 16 whp gain on a b18c with just a v2. On a gsr it only gives a 7 whp gain and aem doesn't even make one for ther ITR because there were no gains due to from what other people in the ITR forum have said, the way the ITR intake manifold were designed. So anyways maybe 16 whp on a semi built motor but i don't think on a stock.

GSR Stats

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ghlight=aem+v2

ITR Info

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ghlight=v2+aem

 

also, the skunk2 im and tb didn't really help that much. it actually hurt my low end and mid range power. the only thing it helped was my top end, and my times were actually about .2 slower than without it. from what i've gathered since, it only really helps with a good set of cams. idk, maybe i was just driving crappy that night but i can only go by what the numbers said. i have since sold the car so have nothing to verify with now but just what I had at the time.

 

i checkd my source which was a import tuner article, power pages, and they misprinted. i rest my case as i have lost.

 

so what the hell, is there any bolt-on that will give a honda some actual power? other than a turbo? instead of getting a skunk2 IM and TB i might just port mine

 

to the OP, if your on a budget, you can use a set of yonaka mounts, the stock linkage from the integra cut down and rewelded will work, to keep it simple you can run the 90-91 ecu and dist as stated and run it on obd0. you will have to use the integra axles, and as stated above dependant on your chassis you may have to do the mpfi conversion, why dont you give us more information on what parts you have and what chassis you have etc, or you can pm me and ill try and help you out.