pics of new 3" downpipe, need weld tips
Ok so i got my downpipe done..full 3" turbo back.. The pics are just tack welded.



I'm suprised how easy it was to make the piping! Fits great and is much more free flowing then my old cheated 3" pipe. I know it's a scarey DIY project...before that was the only part of my car i let someone make the piping + exhaust....never again (they did a terrible job anyways) Don't let it scare you...its easy!
Welding on the other hand is a different story. I got a Millermatic 135 MIG welder...it's a very nice machine, but takes some time to get used to. I practiced a ton on some pipe and could pull nice even beads. Now welding around a bend is a different story! Haven't mastered that yet i guess...
For you fabricators....i was using a #10 shade lens in the mask...that's to dark isnt it? I could barely see anything, I'm gonna try a 7. Also, how do you fixture a downpipe? It's really difficult to rotate your wrist and keep proper angle of the gun. I would image a jig that would allow you to mount the pipe at any angle and turn it to get the joint vertical would be best. Also im using .024 mig wire with a .030 tip (didnt have a .024 tip) for my 16 gauge 3"....is that ok? Using 75% argon, 25%co2. Thanks.
[Modified by true, 5:45 PM 8/4/2002]



I'm suprised how easy it was to make the piping! Fits great and is much more free flowing then my old cheated 3" pipe. I know it's a scarey DIY project...before that was the only part of my car i let someone make the piping + exhaust....never again (they did a terrible job anyways) Don't let it scare you...its easy!
Welding on the other hand is a different story. I got a Millermatic 135 MIG welder...it's a very nice machine, but takes some time to get used to. I practiced a ton on some pipe and could pull nice even beads. Now welding around a bend is a different story! Haven't mastered that yet i guess...
For you fabricators....i was using a #10 shade lens in the mask...that's to dark isnt it? I could barely see anything, I'm gonna try a 7. Also, how do you fixture a downpipe? It's really difficult to rotate your wrist and keep proper angle of the gun. I would image a jig that would allow you to mount the pipe at any angle and turn it to get the joint vertical would be best. Also im using .024 mig wire with a .030 tip (didnt have a .024 tip) for my 16 gauge 3"....is that ok? Using 75% argon, 25%co2. Thanks.
[Modified by true, 5:45 PM 8/4/2002]
i don't know about all that technical mumbo jumbo but i used to weld for my dad when he needed help making his burglar bars. As far as needing something to rotate, We just took it maybe an 1/8- 1/4 of a pipe at a time. Just clamp it in a vise and do it a section at a time cause you have it tacked on so no biggie. But if you can make a jig more power to you. The shade i would say is a little dark, moving to a 7 should help you if not, i know it might sound bad but get closer to the peice you are welding on. I remember when i first started welding i would get really far away from fear of being burned and couldn't see crap then i got closer and it made a world of difference. Other than that you know what you are doing so goodluck.
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I assume you have a clever way to fit the bolts onto that flange? Have you tried actually bolting the thing up yet to see if the bolt head's clear the piping? I made a 3" DP using the same, 4 bolt flange and used a 2.5" pipe and flared to three right out of the outlet because the bolts were impossible to fit in. Also, just a warning, that flange is hard to weld to the pipe. You'll either burn through the pipe or not penetrate the flange very well.
Not only that but when you get a bead forming, remember where your bolts must go. If for some odd reason your bolts actually DO fit, you'll need to weld on the inside where the bolts would go. I can get pictures of how I did mine but my exhaust housing is also on the opposite side than yours.
Two questions:
1. Why are your tacks so long, they should be just little round dots about 0.30" in diameter in 2-3 places - whatever works tho.
2. Why the hell do you have all those bracelets on your wrist?
Keep us updated. I did this a month ago so I can probably fore warn you of any difficulty ... did from the housing to the muffler tip, including all hangers, even added one hanger to get the 3" to hang nicer and with more clearance.
Not only that but when you get a bead forming, remember where your bolts must go. If for some odd reason your bolts actually DO fit, you'll need to weld on the inside where the bolts would go. I can get pictures of how I did mine but my exhaust housing is also on the opposite side than yours.
Two questions:
1. Why are your tacks so long, they should be just little round dots about 0.30" in diameter in 2-3 places - whatever works tho.
2. Why the hell do you have all those bracelets on your wrist?
Keep us updated. I did this a month ago so I can probably fore warn you of any difficulty ... did from the housing to the muffler tip, including all hangers, even added one hanger to get the 3" to hang nicer and with more clearance.
Two questions:
1. Why are your tacks so long, they should be just little round dots about 0.30" in diameter in 2-3 places - whatever works tho.
2. Why the hell do you have all those bracelets on your wrist?
1. Why are your tacks so long, they should be just little round dots about 0.30" in diameter in 2-3 places - whatever works tho.
2. Why the hell do you have all those bracelets on your wrist?
get it TIG'd...it will look alot nicer but if youre going to MIG it, then just have someone hold and rotate the pipe while your welding it. hopefully they have gloves and a mask. if the bolts dont fit, then weld the flange to the pipe except around the bolt hole areas. then indent those areas and burn it together. good luck
The pipe is 16 gauge mild steel from summit (hooker)
http://store.summitracing.com/produc...earchtype=ecat
That downpipe is made using only 2 pipes..a 180 degree J bend, and a 180 degree. You really need the J bend coming off the bracket because it has a 4" radius Vs. a 6" on the 180 degree bends. As far as the bolts, yes i got all 4 of them in. Im using Round head, hex, stainless bolts. The 4" radius 180 degree J bend works perfect if you cut it 'true' on both sides as a 90 because it has JUST enough flat (let the bolts in) before it starts turning at a maximum angle. You cant get any tighter without cheating....or getting a tighter then 4" bend which i couldnt find anywhere. I think its the best pipe for the job...if you made a downpipe and your bolts didn't fit you either cheated your first bend, or used standard bolts. I actually think i may be able to fit standard bolts on all except the bottom which would need to be a stud i think....but the bolts im using all fit, ill take a pic of it installed in the car.
My tack welds are shity cause when i started i couldnt get a single bead to tack right.....i think my biggest problem was my shade 10 mask..i really couldnt see **** so i kinda sliced with the gun to get those tacks. I had to fiddle with my wire speed too...By the time i was finished i figured out how to tack a nice little bubble..but it was to late. haeha, oh well..its not made to be pretty.
http://store.summitracing.com/produc...earchtype=ecat
That downpipe is made using only 2 pipes..a 180 degree J bend, and a 180 degree. You really need the J bend coming off the bracket because it has a 4" radius Vs. a 6" on the 180 degree bends. As far as the bolts, yes i got all 4 of them in. Im using Round head, hex, stainless bolts. The 4" radius 180 degree J bend works perfect if you cut it 'true' on both sides as a 90 because it has JUST enough flat (let the bolts in) before it starts turning at a maximum angle. You cant get any tighter without cheating....or getting a tighter then 4" bend which i couldnt find anywhere. I think its the best pipe for the job...if you made a downpipe and your bolts didn't fit you either cheated your first bend, or used standard bolts. I actually think i may be able to fit standard bolts on all except the bottom which would need to be a stud i think....but the bolts im using all fit, ill take a pic of it installed in the car.
My tack welds are shity cause when i started i couldnt get a single bead to tack right.....i think my biggest problem was my shade 10 mask..i really couldnt see **** so i kinda sliced with the gun to get those tacks. I had to fiddle with my wire speed too...By the time i was finished i figured out how to tack a nice little bubble..but it was to late. haeha, oh well..its not made to be pretty.
Your dp looks really nice, i like it. So you bought the hooker pipes? After researching the summit stuff, i found out the DynoMax brand pipes are EXACT same quality metal at half the price... The bends i ordered were all 14 gauge instead of 16 though, i should have pictures of my custom dp and exhaust up in the next 2 weeks or so... Keep us posted on your project
I'm working on the dumptube now..i think this will be more difficult then the DP. I'm using the Tial 46mm....i dont think i have enough of the old dumpipe to make the new one.....anyone know where i can buy this small tubing for the dump?? It's around 46mm i guess...
Dynomax 14 gauge mandrel bent 180 deg 3" WLK-42323, $18.50 a piece from summitracing.com.
[Modified by GudeH23a, 11:14 PM 8/4/2002]
[Modified by GudeH23a, 11:14 PM 8/4/2002]
i know its quite an investment but since you purchased a welder i am going to assume that you plan on using it for a while to come. my suggestion is to buy a welding shield that automatically tints. I didn't believe anything would make me a better welder and after trying a snap-on shield my welding improved 100%. this is not an exageration. anyway, its just a suggestion. I also believe you can adjust the darkness of the shield to accomidate your eyes and the lighting you are working in.
its a t3 flange...it goes on a garrett...i think the 4 bolt exhaust turbine is new. I got it from someone on this board since every shop i tried to get was out of stock.
I just found out about those auto-tinting welding masks...i may just have to spring and get one. Looks like a very handy tool.
As far as the dump tube piping, i found it..summit has it too. They have everything...
I just found out about those auto-tinting welding masks...i may just have to spring and get one. Looks like a very handy tool.
As far as the dump tube piping, i found it..summit has it too. They have everything...
Gude, do you have a link to the webpage that shows all the dynomax bends...or is that 3" the only one? I can't find it anywhere on the site other then putting in that part number you gave...i want to see if they have J or any tighter radius bends.....
SilverCivic2k: yes you could get 2.5 or 2 1/4 mild steel aluminized piping from the same link and make IC pipe.
SilverCivic2k: yes you could get 2.5 or 2 1/4 mild steel aluminized piping from the same link and make IC pipe.
i know its quite an investment but since you purchased a welder i am going to assume that you plan on using it for a while to come. my suggestion is to buy a welding shield that automatically tints. I didn't believe anything would make me a better welder and after trying a snap-on shield my welding improved 100%. this is not an exageration. anyway, its just a suggestion. I also believe you can adjust the darkness of the shield to accomidate your eyes and the lighting you are working in.
The problem is with my mask, it sucks. I need to start the weld just to see where th hell i'm working at. Dustin advised me of an auto-darkening mask, I wish I would have spent the money on it. That will surely be my next investment.
I have mig, and wanted tig but the price isn't justifiable now for me. Hopefully I can do my own exhaust and DP myself with the wire-feed setup I have.
Tonight I may cut up my old greddy PE and try to weld back together for practice.
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