car idles up and down from about 1k to 3k and i thought it was my iacv and i got a new one (wasn't cheap) but problem still occured... rebuilt my head with stage 2 cams valve springs and retainers and titanium adjustable cam gears all skunk2. recently i turned on the car and heard a knocking noise coming from the front of block near the transmission.... any help guys would be greatly appreciated...
car is a 96 accord with a 92-96 h22a1 vtec dohc engine...

 

Damn right it was expensive, i replaced my IACV too to fix an idle problem and no dice.

If it idles that high and bounces sounds like it might me substantial air leak down stream from the throttle plate. The IAC valve wouldn't flow enough even if it was wide open to make the engine idle up to 3k. Although, I forgot to tighten my new IACV and it fell off while i was driving. That was really shocking to not have my foot on the gas and suddenly find my engine is boucing off the rev limiter.

Does the idle problem happen when cold or hot?

Rapping noises are never good, maybe a spun barring? Change the oil and look for metal. Next I would take the oil pan off and inspect the rod bearings.

How many miles does the car have?

 

it idles like that cold and when warming up! as soon as its to hot and cools down it then idles normal and wants to die down but thats cause the timing is off and i cant adjust it cause that rapid idle up and down. the engine is a jdm engine and since i got it i must have put maybe 3k on it.... its straight from japan. i threw on a skunk2 intake manifold so my iacv isnt on the block its on a bracket that has metal nipples coming out that attach air hoses to the manifold itself...

 

could be the flywheel bolts have started to back out has happened to me twice it will sound like a rod know

 

well i moved the flywheel and its bolted on there!!! i think i may have broken a bearing or crankshaft is moving

 

did you ever run it low on oil? I'd take the oil pan off and check for metal shards in the pan. Once its off you can gently pry the crankshaft to check for loose thrust, and take the rod caps off and inspect the rod barings.

I hope its not but if its a spun baring you probably don't run it too much otherwise you could really chew up the crank or rod.

 

throw out bearing can be that noise..or rod knock if that is worse case

 

well my oil pump froze over on the freeway causing my head to break but didnt think the bottom end would have any damage... once the head was fixed everything was fine then a week later i heard that knocking noise... but i always had oil in it

 

I hope this helps with the diagnosis. Anyone? Anyone?

 

well i got a new oil pump and housing so idk maybe that is what caused the knocking noise... imma look into it when i get money cause im just going to rebuild my bottom end eventually but thats going to cost close to $5k but i will do it

 

Oh my... So you're oil pump broke on the highway and fried your head and now you're getting knocking noises from the bottom end.

The oil pump injects high pressure oil into the crankshaft main bearings and to the connecting rod bearings - oil is also thrown up to the piston wrist pin. All these parts actually slide on high pressure films of oil. If you loose oil pressure even momentarily, your engine starts to cannibalize itself. If you would have kept running it the bearings and pistons would have heated up and eventually the engine would seize up from basically welding itself together.

If you lost oil pressure from oil pump failer you should basically plan on replacing all the bearings in the engine at least. Running an engine without oil pressure even for a minute takes the life expectancy right out of the engine.

Did who ever replaced your head and oil pump bother to inspect any of the bearings?

 

no and i asked them too but they said it would be ok... so i trusted them but i guess they were wrong. i took it to them and they were like oh your on you own and thats what sucks

 

Well thats terrible becaues you trusted them and they fcked you, IMHO. If they did that much work to an engine that lost oil pressure and didn't even look at the bearings its because, and only because they didnt feel like it. Its not even in the relm of incompitence, they just bent you over and just sold you work they felt like doing.

I've heard this exact story before when a friend ran an engine with no oil pressure. The shop sold them all kinds of work to the head, and actually replaced the rod bearings but didn't check or replace the mains probably because they just didnt want to take the engine out. And the main bearings went, which caused a drop in oil pressure and the whole engine blew again a month later.

This is a real dirty fck-job because you don't have any recorse with them because you bought services and they performed them. Its obvious they were negligent in not checking the other components but its impossible to prove now because time has passed since you recieved the car.

Tell everyone you know about this place and never go back to them. Sorry man that really sucks.

 

yeah i hear you and i will.... thanks!

 

dont run it until can look at the bearings. if you keep running it it may really mar up the crank beyond service, if the bearings are indeed the problem.

 

well i havent ran it forever. so im just going to buy the whole stroker kit and resleeve it so im going to pretty much have a new ****ing motor. lol so much money spent better be worth it!! thanks again guys