ok i bought this car a few months ago for daily driving,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U-zWT...e=channel_page

And i have never heard vtec kick like all the other H22 vtec preludes ?

I have NO check engine light at all and yes the bulb does work. i have no problems at all ,, just bad motr mount ??

cn anyone help ?

 

Buddy of mine just installed my motor and one of the things that we change that my have caused the vtec not to work the correct way was the spoon screen. It was all cake up with sludge.

 

How high does your motor make power? Without VTEC you will feel it start dropping off around 6k. It's possible the motor has been tuned (correctly) and VTEC is engaging, but without such a big surge.

 

If the Vtec wont kick in, maybe it is and you honestly just dont know it (right around 5,200 rpm). Otherwise mechanical problem in the hydrolic system, or an electrical problem either directly resulting for a fault or indirectly where the computer is receiving faulty information and decides not to engauge vtec.

There are lots of specialized tools for diagnosing vtec problems, try the simple ones first, Take the v-tech solenoid off the head (unbolts easy) and check the filter screen for crud. Make sure the solenoid connector is pluged in

There are several conditions where the oem computer will not let the v-tech engage, off hand, if the car isnt warmed up or the temp sensor is broken and the computer thinks the car isnt warmed up. also, i know if the speed senor is disconnected from the transmission, it wont let vtec kick in.

 

ok, the car does have all aluminium pullies, and has AEM cam gears and they are retarded 2 degreas ?

tats how i got the car so why would someone retard cam by 2 ? ,all underdox pullies, K&n filter, dc header is that why vtec is quiet ?

 

Underdrive pullys can lower the system voltage by not cranking the alternator enough. This can mess with some voltage dependand sensors in threory. This may trip the computer into not letting vtec kick in, but this should also throw a low voltage engine light, in theory. Go to an autozone they can test your alternator output for free with a induction meter.

Generally, if you retard the valve events it tunes the engine for higher RPMs. For example, if the intake valve is closing retarded (late) then the engine can take in more air during the intake stroke rebound.

The intake stroke pulls air in, but the intake valve dosnt actually close until the piston is actually well into making its compression stroke, back up. The air dosnt get pushed back out the intake because at high rpms the air is rushing in so fast the force of the air flow in the intake actually compresses the air against the piston even though its on its way back up.

This effect is stronger at high rpms, so if you retard the valve events, you can generally cram a little more air in at high rpms generally, but with sacrifice to low end power.

 

You said VTEC is quiet? So is it actually engaging?

 

no not quiet not at all engaging

 

The pressure switch checks that there is enough oil pressure to turn vtec on. The switch is screwed into the solenoid valve assembly. It has a two wire lead; blu/blk wire and a brn/blk wire. The blu/blk wire supplies voltage from the ECU's C connector terminal 15, the brn/blk wire goes to ground.

1. Check the pressure switch. Unplug connector and test that there is continuity between the two prongs on the switch.

2. Check pressure switch feed voltage from terminal 15 of the computer: On the wire side of the pressure switch connector, test voltage from the blu/blk wire to the body. Should be battery voltage (make sure the ignition is on).

3. Check that brn/blk wire has a good ground (G101) by testing the voltage across the blu/blk wire and the brn/blk wire.

 

it's an automatic VTEC doesnt kick in like manual cars do sorry

look at 3:24 it's auto man that is to funny . sorry.

 

let's start with the basics; how's your oil level? and again, when does it feel like your power starts dropping off?

as previously mentioned, check the vtec solenoid for cleanliness and that the electrical connector is plugged in.

 

4. The solenoid has one feed wire, it is grn/yel. Unbolt the solenoid valve assembly from the head, check and clean the screen, bolt it back up. Check continuity between the solenoid prong and the body (after its bolted back to the head).

5. While its bolted to the head, Unplug the solenoid lead, jump the solenoid prong to the positive terminal of the battery and listen for a click to see if the solenoid is activating

 

oil was on the low side, and to the dumbass above thats laughing at it being auto, it also TIP TRONIC, and 93,6% 97-01 prelude were made like this very littel 5 speed. so yeah.+ i bet it can smoke a civic b18. but this car is getting sold as im goign to restart using my ej2 as my daily, anywase i feel power to 7,800 then drops.

 

If you're getting good power to 7800 you either have a good tune that pulled out the "spike" into VTEC and it's actually engaging or you have a VTEC-eliminated cam setup (like roller-rockers; but should have a tune anyway; pretty unlikely). Since you have an OBD1 H22a, my guess is you're running Hondata in some form and it actually has a decent tune. Pull back the carpet on the passenger side floor to reveal the ECU; I'll bet you have a hole in the side of the case somewhere with either a serial connection or a USB port. Or you have a piggyback controller (like a VAFC or eManage) that you never mentioned.

 

oh yeah theres a hole in the ecu so that mean what again ?

so yeah i tested it last night 7,800-8,00 makes power and anything after 8K its like nothing. so u think car was done right and tuned and all that **** ? ,i re painted the valve cover few months back and noticed everything read around the cam and **** ?