Anyone with any ideas as to the problem please help me, i will try and explain in detail everything.

The new:
I was forced to rebuild my b18c1 in my 90 rex after my rings went bad, so i upgraded to 12.5:1 manley pistons. I replaced pistons, rings, all internal bearings with acl parts, and all internal seals and gaskets. I also replaced the timing belt, and water pump. It has a built head (cams, p&p). All rings were properly gapped to manley specs. also installed a brand new knock sensor as the old one broke off during engine removal.

The already there:
Full OBD1 conversion (not an adapter harness, all matched and soldered) with virgin p72 ecu and dizzy, engine did run after conversion before the rebuild.

The problems:
the connection between key and starter is broken somewhere, have been jumping starter with a wire between hot and switched connectors, the key still has connection to the fuse block and all lights etc function properly with key on. The car just cranks when jumping the starter in this way. I have triple checked timing and is accurate, the plugs are sparking, there is fuel (dunno if enough and at the right timing, dunno how to check that). and obviously can feel the compression with the new parts when cranking motor (not to mention the parts are new and properly installed). I also triple checked all connectors in the engine bay, didnt remove the ecu during the install, so i didnt disturb any wired done with the full conversion. The ecu is throwing a cyp sensor code, and has done that with 2 different distributors now.

Please help if you have any ideas of what to check, I am completely lost as what to do next. no idea will be seen as "stupid" as i already am lost and realize it could be the littlist thing that is keeping it from running

 

is your starter grounded? its happend to me before

 

was this a problem before or after the swap? also, are you using an oem Honda distributor or an aftermarket one like from autozone or napa or something?

 

I had a problem like that with a rebuild i did awhile back with new rings come to find out i had to pour some oil down all the spark plug holes and then it started up being the rings are new they need to seat and the oil helps build enough compression to start motor...

Also check to see if all your grounds are correct and some pics of the engine bay and wiring might help with some better anwsers...

 

Did you check fuses?

 

are you sure you have your plugs wired to the dizzy correctly?

 

Check your plug wires for the correct firing order on the cap.
You sure you have your thermostat housing ground on,tranny ground, and valve cover ground?
Simple mistakes that happens alot.

 

thanks for all the quick suggestions,

1. The starter thing happened when we put the engine back in the car.

2. The starter is grounded.

3. We have been constantly putting oil down the spark plug holes not wanting dry perfectly honed cylinder walls scored by dry rings.

4. The spark plugs are in the correct firing order.

5. Have checked all the fuses in the car relating to engine management. All are good.

6. I am not sure what dizzy is being used, may be autozone etc.. or may be oem.

7. As of right now i have all the grounds attached that were on before the motor came out... Tranny and valve cover.

Another side note, The engine will sometimes "sputter" like it wants to start, but will never fully start. Also, It is fully converted to obd1 p72 injectors.

Will have some engine bay pics up soon for you guys.

And again, thanks for all the help.

 

if you have a cyp code there is a good possibility the ecu does not know the corect time to fire thus giving you a no start situation

to diag the sensors in the dizzy you use a ohms meter and measure resistance between wires with the dizzy unpluged (distributor side)

orange-white
orange/blue - white with blue
blue/green - blue yellow

should be 350-550 ohms
hope this helps