Honda Accord (1990 - 2002) Includes 1997 - 1999 Acura CL

Ignition lock?

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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 10:18 AM
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Default Ignition lock?

So my car died on the highway, the rpms dropped to zero, but I was not coasting.

Essentially, somehow, my car still runs, but the rpm needle drops and battery light flashes. I can start it, it turns over, but dies as soon as I let go of the key.

If I'm really REALLY nice to the key, it'll stay on, switch on the radio/interior fan, etc.


Is it the ignition lock, just worn out?
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 10:33 AM
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Battery Light = Alternator
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Old Dec 19, 2008 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by johndoughy
So my car died on the highway, the rpms dropped to zero, but I was not coasting.

Essentially, somehow, my car still runs, but the rpm needle drops and battery light flashes. I can start it, it turns over, but dies as soon as I let go of the key.

If I'm really REALLY nice to the key, it'll stay on, switch on the radio/interior fan, etc.


Is it the ignition lock, just worn out?
The electrical portion of the ignition switch has soiled the bed (so to speak). I suspect the "Batt" light flashing is a function of the alternator loosing batt voltage from the switch.

P
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 08:24 AM
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Well, where's the best place to get a new ignition lock/switch?
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 08:31 AM
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You should be able to get the part anywhere but the best place is a dealer part, check E Bay too, if the car runs all the time while holding the key in the start position III then the electrical portion is bad, also when you turn the key to ON position II and if the idiot lights do not come on then the electrical portion of the ignition switch is bad also. You do not need to key or lock portion, only the part with the electrical wires attached to it.
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Duane_in_Japan
You do not need to key or lock portion, only the part with the electrical wires attached to it.
So this part:
http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?...onda&md=Accord

Right?
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 09:02 AM
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Thats correct, just be sure to order the exact part for your exact model and trim, you may not be able to return an electrical part if you get the wrong one and its proved that you ordered the wrong one.
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 09:39 AM
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Originally Posted by johndoughy
Here's the equivilent Honda OEM part number for your application:

35130-SM4-305

Refer:

http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa_parts_list.php?vin=&Label%5BProductID%5D=ACCOR D&Label%5BYearID%5D=1991&Label%5BDoorID%5D=4&Label %5BGradeID%5D=LX&Label%5BAreaID%5D=KA&Label%5BTran smissionID%5D=4AT&Label%5BSectionID%5D=ELECTRICAL+ %2F+EXHAUST+%2F+HEATER+%2F+FUEL&Label%5BIllustrati onGroupID%5D=COMBINATION+SWITCH&ProductID=5&YearID =30&DoorID=4&GradeID=5&AreaID=2&TransmissionID=5&S ectionID=5&IllustrationGroupID=6796

Number #10
P
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Old Dec 20, 2008 | 04:04 PM
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So I took off the cover and found out that I don't even need to remove my steering wheel. I took apart the mechanism that actually does the switching, and cleaned the connections and still couldn't make it work. I checked the fusebox and then headed to a parts store with a replacement. I plugged it up and it works great!

Thank you so much! You saved me a lot of time, money, and worry and even made me look pretty good in front of my wife!

Thank you!
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