Okay, the car is a 99 hatch, 01 b18c1, original d16y7 engine harness with added plugs/wires for the engine. Luserkid (victor) and I did a small wire tuck on my car. We depinned all the wires off of the ecu plugs and the little distribution pack, depinned various plugs in order to loom up the wires, and took out a few plugs/sensors that Vic said we didn't need. (i think just evap, and ckf?). Now the car will not start (because the fuel pump doesn't prime) unless we run a wire straight from the battery to either the 1 or the 9 pin of the B ecu plug. These two wires are only getting about 3-5 volts otherwise (when they should be getting about 14).

I have troubleshooted a lot of different ideas and still can't figure it out. Here is what I've discovered/checked so far:

-I flipped the wires on the distribution pack and discovered that if I leave the key on the on position for about 20 seconds, the fuel pump will start to prime and will continue to until I turn the key off. This didn't happen with the wires on the distribution pack pinned the original way.

-I checked all the ecu pinouts and I didn't see any problems.

-I had a CEL for the map sensor at one point, we switched some of the pins for the MAP plug and got rid of that

-The iacv pins were switched at the plug side--I put them back to how they should be.

-Tried different main relays, no go.

-Tried a different ecu, no go.


I am completely stumped and need this car running. It is also incredibly difficult to find a good harness to use meanwhile.

 

Up^^

 

A different ECU isn't going to help if your wiring is wrong. If it's your wiring that is at fault (more than likely) You may have fried that ECU as well.

Get ready to sit down and stare at your ECU and vehicle wiring diagrams until your eyes bleed. Because it sounds like you may have more wires going to the wrong pins.

You will need to trace every single wire from the ECU to it's end and make sure it's going to the proper sensor, relay, plug etc..etc. Then you should check it's resistance and repair or re-pin them if required.

Sounds like you may have gotten yourself in over your head. Do you have the full wiring schematic for your car?

 

Start over. Really no other solution that we can tell you. You have messed up your wiring somewhere along the way. Good luck.

 

I have my helms manual and the ff-squad diagrams that I've gone off of. Honestly, I didn't even plan on dealing with any of this because Victor was doing all the depinning and wiring. The only reason I even attempted to tackle this wire tuck was because he was there to help. Now I'm just in a bad situation. I'm trying to get a new harness to at least get me running for now.

Do you guys know if all the pins have to be pinned into the distribution plug? Victor took out a couple that were for plugs we removed and since switching the wires on this plug made that weird fuel pump prime after 20 seconds, I figured that plug has something to do with it.

Also, like I said, I checked all the pin-outs on the ecu according to the ff-squad site and they all checked out. Any specific plugs I should check? Also, by checking resistance I'm assuming that means the amount of volts for the wire?

Thanks for the replies guys, much more intelligent than the replies I got in the model specific section.

 

The Helms manual for your make model & year isn't going to do shyte in this situation. You need a Mitchell Electrical Repair schematic, it's a great addition to the Helms manuals. Helms don't usually have any detailed electrical schematics at all. They usually only show you the connecting ends of a circuit and nothing in the middle. The Mitchell's schematics show you every mm of every wire in the entire car. Very helpful....

Victor owes you to come back and undo what he did. If He F'd something up then he should fix it for you.

The Mitchell's schematic will be able to tell you if you removed a vital wire.... actually given your present situation, I would say that you have obviously removed/switched something vital to the operation of your car.... What it is I am unable to tell you without being there to see what you have removed.

I mean Ω (Ohms) of resistance. A digital multimeter is a must for anyone doing a wire tuck.... I will assume that you have one of these......Yes/No? If you do then what you do to check resistance is place your multimeter selector to the 2000 Ω position. A 1 should appear on the far left of your multimeter display. Now using the two probes place one probe at one end, and the other probe at the other end of the circuit to be tested. The 1 should change to 000 if there is no Resistance. Anything other than 000 means there is resistance in that circuit. This in turn, could cause a drop in voltage as 100% of the original voltage may be reduced by this obstruction in the wire. Resistance can be caused by improper soldering, a break in the wire, old worn wires, or dirty or corroded connections.

Another must for someone doing a wire tuck is documentation.... Pen to paper, computer document or before & after images of the wire connectors/distribution blocks. Do you or Victor have any documentation? If you do it would be easier for us to figure out what has been misplaced.

 

Good info Ghost! I can't get over how many times I have seen people attempt wiring jobs without documenting anything!

One thing to note on the Helms is that you should get the ETM....Electrical Troubleshooting Manual in addition to the service manual before starting any project. They are available for a lot less than the service manual and cover everything as well as testing all the voltages and resistances, etc.

http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2...F8X40EXSNA5568

 

So is the Mitchell Electrical Repair schematic different from the Helms ETM? Or is it the same thing? Yeah, Victor definitely knows more about what is going on with the harness than I do, but he had to get back home before he could try and fix the problem. He tried helping me via cell phone, but he was a little busy and couldn't think of any more ideas. But yeah, I wish he could fix it for me.

I do have a multimeter and could check the resistance of each wire that way. My next day off, I'm going to rip that harness out and check each wire like you are saying. So, with the harness out of the car, what should I check each wire for? Resistance, and then continuity from the ecu side to the plug side?

I have no documentation but Vic did take quite a few notes. I doubt I would be able to decipher them though. It was mostly for plugs he was depinning (other than the ecu plugs...we used ff-squad for those). He wrote down which wire went to which prong on the plug when he depinned them.

 

Well pins 1 and 9 are Ignition Power Source and Starter Signal wires. So its clear why 12v to those wires will allow the car to start. Why you dont have the right amount of power has to be a short of some sort. Maybe due to the de-pinned wires. Just because those plugs you were told were unnecessary doesn't mean those wires aren't dependant by other components. SO it would help to know exactly what was de-pinned or removed.

 

If you don't know exactly how to check over the harness to ensure that everything is wired correctly..
1- get your friend vic to come and help you as he helped you get into the mess.
2- seems simple.. but check to make sure all the pins are secured within the plugs themselves.. Most of the larger connectors have a white plastic lock that is put into the plug to fasten all the pins.


If you only have 3-5 volts just follow the wire back to where you may have made a new connection and see if the voltage is different there..
Other than that, doing voltage drop tests throughout the circuit is the best way to check. As you said you don't know a whole lot about what was done.. keep it simple you may get lucky..

 

Voltage drop tests...would that be the resistance check that GhostAccord was describing earlier?

 

Its similar to testing for resistance in a circuit.

A voltage drop test is something you perform when the car is on and engine is running. Its usually to diagnose a problem with the charging circuit or a starter.

The resistance test is to determine if there is anything preventing current from traveling from one point to another.

 

So, I put in an entirely new engine harness...still no fuel pump prime. This is pretty ridiculous. I'll check back with some more details when I get a chance, have to go to work right now.

 

correct me if im wrong, isn't there an immobilizer on that year ecu?

 

what ecu are you using?
what distributor are you using?

if you have the 01 gsr ecu, and 01 gsr distributor
you will need to swap 2 pins on the ecu because they are different on a integra, they are for the fuel pump,
the pins are A16 to A15
and you will need the crank sensor,
and u do have to remove the immobilizer on the ecu

hope that helps

 

Sorry, more specifics should have been given. The ecu is a chipped and tuned obd1...Car ran perfectly before the attemptive wire tuck. So since there is no obd2 gsr ecu in the picture, that gets rid of the immobilizer and fuel pump pin swap possibilities. It has to be in the wiring somehow...I just don't know what could effect it at this point...since the Engine harness has been swapped.

 

I've got some kind of progress. I'm not sure if I mentioned that my headlight and parking lights were switched earlier. But I figured that out. Now with the fuel pump issue. As you know, my fuel pump wasn't priming. Well there was a yel/grn and a yel/blk wire that seemed to be switched on the driver's side engine harness plug (the one that goes from the cabin through the firewall and then plugs into the engine harness). So I switched these, now the fuel pump primes, but doesn't stop(also on a side note, my temp. gauge on my cluster used to shoot up to the highest point...after switching these wires, it doesn't). But the engine won't turn over. It sort of locks up as soon as I turn the key. Doesn't even try to crank over. Any ideas? Because I am completely out of ideas at this point...just for reference, here is what has been checked/changed:

-all fuses
-different fuel pumps
-different ecu's
-helms approved main relay (and also tried some questionable main relays I had laying around)
-wiring according to the helms shop manual (which doesn't cover much)...but it passed the fuel pump/main relay trouble shooting.
-I also yanked out all of my security so there is no alarm and no kill switches. So essentially the wiring is all stock (except for whatever is causing this ultimate issue)

 

What could cause the locking up I was referring to? Could that be a bad starter?

 

could be the starter. could be the signal wire to the starter.

Does the started click atleast? you might want to take it out and check it at Autozone.

 

That wouldn't explain the constant priming of the fuel pump, would it?

 

www.helminc.com

Get the ETM.

Still sounds like a wiring issue if your pump continues to prime.

 

It's on its way....I'm just running out of time. I need my car in a week. I start class 4 days a week.

Also, I'm assuming that it will have diagrams that show me the wire colors for each plug? So I can check each pin on each plug. Right?

 

How long till you get the ETM?

It will have the wiring color and area designation for each wire in the car. In your instance, which ETM did you get? The Civic or Integra GSR one? Because its a little tricky figuring out everything with the wire tuck done.

 

I got the civic one, but the engine wiring cant be the issue at this point because i have used two different harnesses. The tucked one and a recently purchased civic si one.

 

did you ever get it figured out man?