im tryin to decide which is a better way to go with a camber kit on my 89 crx an i want to know if adjustable joints are a good way to go our just get the whole upper arm so let me know what you guys think

 

Have you found upper set for a ef?
Post links

 

both work good

 

you lose suspension travel with the adjustable balljoints. adds height ot the balljoint, so it hits the top of the fender. plus they look kinda weak....

skunk2 is the only maker of adjustable a-arms that fit. hard to find because theyre in demand.

are you going to get an alignment?

 

skunk2 makes real good ones, and weksos has them in stock

 

Why do you think you need a camber adjuster kit?

 

targa's picking a fight! :D

heres a recent one.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/when-i-put-front-camber-kit-2451883/

sick em boy, sick em!

 

ive had my revo adjustable arms for a year now no problems (bent inside of pinch weld and swapped to ES ball joint boots)

 

i thought revo's hit the inside fender.

 

i had skank on my teg.they were great.i have revo's on my rex,and there just as good.there both upper control arms with adj ball joints.no mater what you use,if you want 3degrees of adj your going to have to do some bangging on the inner fender lip.

 

they hit the pinch weld so i banged it out a lil. i have da knuckles. dont know if that matters. im not super low either 1 1/2<>2 finger gap.

 

ic. so one could grind just a bit of material off too. good to know.

was it also some Rhino brand that made arms for the CRX? is that hte same as Revo?

i installed some skunk2 arms on a friends car. seemed to fit fine. at extreme upper angle, and balljoint adjusted all the way in, the knuckle would interfere with the arm inside the "cup" of the arm. but not a big deal. cleared the inner fender JUST enough.

the DA knuckles wouldnt affect the fitment.

 

the rhinos looked too cheap for my tastes..im a middle of the road kinda guy.

ive just heard they were taller.

 

yeah they are, but it wouldnt affect whether the A arm hits the fender.

 

I just finished installing a new pair of trailing arm bushings and I'm still pumped. Maybe I should go drop the trans and install a new inboard mainshaft bearing to cool down; then I won't have enough energy left to explain unpopular concepts.

 

Keep the stock upper arms if you have da kunckles in.

 

Show off

 

i think you have the wrong thread.

 

why you say that?? I have DA knuckles and soon to lower my ride and get the Skunk2 Adjustable A-arms on my 90 hatch dx

 

Would have a positive camber if sitting at stock height and then when you lower it, it help straight out the camber.

 

Actually, the taller DA knuckle puts the upper control arm at a larger spread relative to the position of the lower control arm, which results in a more aggressive camber curve (ahh, the beauty of SLA double wishbone suspension). This means that while the camber will be more positive at stock ride height, it will be even more negative than normal at lowered heights. The upper control arm will also have a higher static position than normal, so it will hit the underside of the shock tower sooner under compression. That is why the reduction in clearance caused by a taller adjustable ball joint is not good.