Guys,
If my clutch pedal becomes very soft and doesn't come up all the way after being pressed, and if upon closer inspection I see grease coming from the rubber boot where the cylinder-axis goes into, is it safe to assume my Master Cylinder needs to be replaced or is there any way I can do something to extend its life?

The car is driveable, I just feel like the clutch is not engaging all the way and I often have to pull the clutch pedal out with the tip of my foot.

If the Master Cylinder needs to be replaced, do you have an advice on a good unit (better than stock) that I could install as opposed to the OEM replacement?

Please keep in mind this is a bone stock EG (8v D15), but I plan on dropping a B-series if and when the engine goes. I am not sure whether investing in a better Master Cylinder is a good idea if it's not going to be compatible with the new engine when the time comes... but if it's independent from the engine, might as well get a better one.

Thanks for your help!

-Walter

 

yes that is your master cylinder and nah just go with the OEM master cylinder, its reliable and you know it fits, parts just go bad sometimes...

 

a master cylinder is a master cylinder. d or b series..

i think (omni? or someone else) may make an aftermarket one... but in my opinion its not worth it

 

Check your slave cylinder also. I was having the exact same problems you are having, even having to pull the pedal up with my toe like you are describing. Mine was a worn out slave cylinder and it left me stranded when it finally let go completely. I had to change it out in a parking lot. Also, just get a replacement from Advance or AutoZone. If it is a slave, the part is only like $13. Check it out. Pull back the rubber boot on the slave cylinder and see if any fluid leaks out.

 

Sounds good guys, thanks for the input!

-Walter

 

I'd STRONGLY recommend buying OEM for these parts. I have replaced my slave cylinder three times when I kept replacing it with AutoZone/O'Reilly parts. This was in a course of 2 years. Replaced both with OEM and have had no issues what so ever over the last year.

Stick with OEM, you'll thank me later.

 

this one is worth it imo. it has a harder pedal feel but it will shave 2-3 thousands of shifting (1/4 mile). clutch movement is about 1-2 inches. plus its cheaper than an oem replacement. i had one in my integra for 3 years with no problems (sold the car). i had the oem one from an integra but just sold it. i believe they are mostly interchangeable.

 

dont forget to also bleed the line after you get it replaced so that you get all the air out of the lines or you'll have a soggy clutch

 

Sounds good guys, thanks for the input!

-Walter

 

recommend changing both out at the same time. Any contaminants from a broken seal in a clutch master cylinder can easliy make its way to your slave cylinder when the system is bled.

 

Allright guys... got back in town and found the Master/Slave Cylinders I got online waiting for me on the doorstep.

I just finished installing both, I took good care, got some brand new unopened DOT3 fluid, took apart the plastic tank and cleaned it... refilled the whole system and so on.

With the help of a friend pumping on the pedal, I bled the system until clear DOT3 fluid came out of the plastic tube connected to the slave cylinder nipple, no bubbles, just crystal clear fluid.

The car is driveable again, however I am still experiencing the following problems:

• the clutch pedal still feels a bit soft
• the clutch pedal tends to get stuck halfway up, I still have to pull it out with the tip of my foot at times

Yes, I did regulate the bolt by the pedal trying to minimize play.

What could be causing this? I am suspecting the spring behind the clutch pedal might have popped out of place, is this a common problem?

What do you suggest?

Thank you in advance for your help,

-Walter

 

...anyone?

Thanks,

-Walter

 

well check the spring but it sounds like you got a bubble. clutchs are hard as hell to bleed i use a vacuum bleeder.

 

Yea, use a vacuum bleeder...

Clutch is somewhat tricky, cuz at time you think there's no air left in the system and then low and behold another bubble...

Check the spring though before bleeding again.

 

I hear you guys... especially because I wasn't using the best tools during bleeding, it had gotten dark and I am not sure my neighbor was understanding my instructions while he was pumping the pedal.

I got a better tube and better wrench, I'll bleed again next week with the help of another buddy of mine.

As far as the spring... well I did look at it, but I can't tell whether or not it's installed properly, it seemed like it popped out of place somehow... might have to take a pic and post it unless one of you guys can dig a pic for me so I can compare with what I saw under my dash. I looked on Google Images but could not find a clear shot of the spring from under the dash.

Thank you for your help.

-Walter

 

UPDATE: I bled the system again, this time with better tools and my other buddy.

Watched as the clean fluid flowed through the tube, was unable to see any bubble, perhaps 1 or 2 tiny ones. I did the clutch-pumping + keep pressed + loosen/tight screw + start again routine about 5-6 times.

Same problem.

I'm wondering whether I'm dealing with a bad cap (improper seal) on the master cylinder reservoir.

Could you guys tell me how's the cap situation on EG Civics? Is it normal that it has a bit of play even when it snapped in place by turning clockwise? What about the plastic disc with slit in the middle that I found in the reservoir? Does it belong on the cap side (because I couldn't snap it on the cap) or is it supposed to float in the reservoir? Should I replace the o-ring? Know the size?

Thanks for the input guys. Car's drivable, but clutch pedal's still soft and tends to stop halfway up (when I tip it with my foot it snaps back up making a "TLANK" sound).

-Walter

 

my 92 civic clutch is 1 inches loose on top,i did bleed many times,but no difference,not sure what to do next

 

...anyone?

Guys, let me know your thoughts please so I can try to fix it this weekend.

Thanks,

-Walter

 

...bump?

-Walter

 

 

...anybody else?

-Walter

 

check the line from the master to the slave if u havent already for leaks...

 

Just Make sure you get an OEM one they will work the best because they have gone through the most testing and they truly guarantee they will work. Best bet is to go to your local junk yard and try to find a used OEM one for cheap