Guys,

I have the D16z6 on my EG with Jackson Racing super charger. It has the OEM metal head gasket installed and last year and now is blown. Which brand of the gasket do you guys use? And, what's the thickness? Please input.

-Alan

 

We typically keep OEM stock. no need to drop compression by using a thicker gasket.

I would also check to see WHY it is blown. I have the same engine in our shop car with over 189K miles on it. Never blown.. I'd check

/thread

 

Is your shop car equipped with a force induction? My car ran perfect after the metal head gasket replacement, up until I took it to the track today.

BTW, do you have a after market radiator? Half or full size? I currently have the half size OEM radiator (later model. I believe thats alumimium).

 

your talking to the shodan, the grandmaster of turbo design im sure the shop car is boosted, anywho OEM metal HG's are pretty damn tough, do as shodan says, you need to figure out WHY it blew, do you have headstuds, how high were you revving it, was it installed properly, and torqued in the proper sequence etc...

 

Short answer to that, yes, it is an FI Time Attack car. We are using a Full sized C&R radiator for the car, but you can easily use a half-sized radiator for street use without any issue. 92-00 civic radiators from Visteon (C&R), Koyo, Fluidyne, or even Mishimoto, will work just fine.

You said "metal hG". I'm curious as to what you mean by that. Check your studs to the head, use another OEM HG w/ cooper spray to help sealing it on the next go-round, but I really would suggest, checking with why the first one blew.

 

TheShodan,
Thank you for the reply. I currently have the AC equipped. Does that mean a half size radiator is not good for track?

I have used the new OEM studs when the OEM metal head gasket installed. I'll double check the studs and all that.

blinx9900,
I was reving 5,000- 6800 rpm most of the time.

 

oem

 

your problem is the oem head bolts. you need some ARP head studs (not bolts) and youll be good to go. the next thing to break after that is your rods.

 

Guys,

I got the pics up. Here is the top view of the engine. There are some marks between cylinders 1&2 and cylinders 2&3. Oberiously, that's where the leaks are?! Note that there are minor vertical lines on the #2 & #3's cylinder wall.

http://picasaweb.google.com/karlunla...97718202329490

The head is in good shape. But, there are marks on the exhaust valves here (the ones that stand up). I am planning to do a 3 degree angle valve job.

http://picasaweb.google.com/karlunla...97724068071026

Here is my setup in detail.
- Jackson Racing supercharger (8psi).
- K&N drop in filter.
- GReddy 4-2-1 header.
- Apex'i WS2 exhaust.
- Sun's Voltage System ( GT model).
- Apex'i VAFC 2 dyno tuned @ DNR Performance.

- Note that I have the stock ECU & CAT. I will be putting the ARP studs and Koyo half size radiator.

TheShodan,
Can you chip in some comment?

 

Yes please put ARP studs, should have been your first purchase really! sounds like you may have just lifted your head! And stick with Honda Genuine HG!

 

If the head was lifted, the head bolts should be loose, right? But, its very tight.

 

They won't be loose. They will have been stretch ever so slightly, but enough to allow the combustion to blow through the HG and cause a leak.

I had the OEM HG on my 2000 Si when I was boosted. 248whp/215wtq. I tracked my car and it would finally start to overheat after 20+ minutes of boosting around the track w/ my OE radiator that was also behind my big FMIC. I have come up with an ingenious plan for the next go around to hopefully stave off the overheating issue.

I would suggest you get ARP headstuds for your engine as suggested and buy another OE headgasket. I'm sure that is your problem, but as the Shodan suggested, be sure to investigate thoroughly why your problem happened in the first place.

 

blaze,

As o this point, I am stuck. I don't know how to find out the cause. I am thinking to get a rev limiter or some sort to limit the rpm? The redline on my D16z6 is 7250rpm. I am thinking to push no more than 6800rpm? Just a thought.

I have no idea what causes this beside thinking that maybe a head lift during combustion?

 

ARP Studs + OEM Gasket

 

A MLS gasket is all i use and its never let me down.