Type R dyno sheet please view
I have a dip in my power band and can not figure out what causes it..
skunk2 intake mani with whale *****
itr block
itr pistons 81.5mm
gsr head, stock ports
skunk 2 pro 2 cams
hytec replica header
rc 370cc
2.5 in str8 pipe to muffler not sure name brand of muffler
made 194whp 136 ftlbs any input will help thanks
skunk2 intake mani with whale *****
itr block
itr pistons 81.5mm
gsr head, stock ports
skunk 2 pro 2 cams
hytec replica header
rc 370cc
2.5 in str8 pipe to muffler not sure name brand of muffler
made 194whp 136 ftlbs any input will help thanks
Last edited by robfrmny21; Dec 9, 2008 at 06:55 PM.
That is the header. 100% sure.
The primaries are incorrectly paired for the size of the merge collector used for the 4-2 transition. The secondary length is not long enough for the secondary piping diameter used. A couple other things that make these manifolds junk.
If you want a smooth powerband, pay for a R&D'd header.
From searching for 5 minutes in the all-motor dyno thread:
ITR cams with:
Red - Hytech Replica
Green - DC JDM 4-1

Skunk2 Stg1's
Hytech Replica Header

Buddy Club 3+ cams
Hytech Replica Header

CTR cams
Hytech Replica Header
The primaries are incorrectly paired for the size of the merge collector used for the 4-2 transition. The secondary length is not long enough for the secondary piping diameter used. A couple other things that make these manifolds junk.
If you want a smooth powerband, pay for a R&D'd header.
From searching for 5 minutes in the all-motor dyno thread:
ITR cams with:
Red - Hytech Replica
Green - DC JDM 4-1

Skunk2 Stg1's
Hytech Replica Header

Buddy Club 3+ cams
Hytech Replica Header

CTR cams
Hytech Replica Header
Last edited by 92TypeR; Dec 9, 2008 at 12:06 PM.
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I guess I should say that he no longer has an off-the-shelf header.
All the HyTech Replicas floating around were originally spec'd by John a while ago to be built by a Chinese firm to be used as a Production unit. Then that firm, whom anyone can buy from, became more well known, hence the steep rise in "Tri-Y/Hytech" replicas floating around on ebay/honda-tech/am-pm...
PS - Put that header on a 13:1 2.1L B-series with 11.5-12.5" intake runners and there won't be a dip anymore...
All the HyTech Replicas floating around were originally spec'd by John a while ago to be built by a Chinese firm to be used as a Production unit. Then that firm, whom anyone can buy from, became more well known, hence the steep rise in "Tri-Y/Hytech" replicas floating around on ebay/honda-tech/am-pm...
PS - Put that header on a 13:1 2.1L B-series with 11.5-12.5" intake runners and there won't be a dip anymore...
I really appreciate all the helpful words
ok so a new header will be in the works.. what other brands do you recommend?
are there any other tips as far as bolt ons go for with this set up?
ok so a new header will be in the works.. what other brands do you recommend?
are there any other tips as far as bolt ons go for with this set up?
Last edited by robfrmny21; Dec 9, 2008 at 07:15 PM.
I would recommend trying to make a run open header to see if it helps with the power dip you are seeing. I have a feeling there is a ve restriction.
Another thing you may want to try is pro1 or stg2 cams instead.
Another thing you may want to try is pro1 or stg2 cams instead.
when it was tuned i believe the exhaust was - 3 degrees and intake + 1 degrees
this was done also to get the car to idle cuz two other tuners could not figure why it would not idle
this was done also to get the car to idle cuz two other tuners could not figure why it would not idle
Your cam timing is way off.
You should be around 0 to +2 on the intake and +3 to +5 on the exhaust.
Did you read the installation specificaitons that Skunk2 provides? Look at the install centerlines one more time...
You should be around 0 to +2 on the intake and +3 to +5 on the exhaust.
Did you read the installation specificaitons that Skunk2 provides? Look at the install centerlines one more time...




