Ok i recently had a b18c1 that was swapped in another ek swapped into my current 97 ek Ej8.Thing is that when it was in the other car it had wires coming from engine bay towards the ecu. I was checking my car today to find that those wires were cut off. Probably at the shop and left like that. Either on purpose or mistake. The wires are coming from the pins A11 and A19. Anyone have any clue as to why or for what these wires would be for? Any help is appreciated. Thanx in advance. Just trying to get my gsr running right.

 

UPDATE:

Well i found out that my IABs aint connected. Thats what those cables are from. Question is why are they getting power source from those pins instead of the A26? And would it work the same? And could this problem lead to me having a CEL 23 Vtec pressure light everytime i hit about 7k rpm?

 

Anyone willig to shed some light on my problem? I would really like to have my GSR runnign right. What would be the correct way of hooking it up? Cuz i spoke to him and he said thats how he had it hooked up. But how would having it hooked up to A11 and A19 work if the signal for IABs is A26 isnt it? Also is there any CEL for the Iabs? Cuz the only damm light that comes on to me is 22 Vtec Press. When i hit aroun 6-7k rpm.

 

Bump......Hoping B Serious comes in and helps me out.

 

Hmm....sounds like some wires are mixed up. I read it fast, though.

Why don't you just use your original wiring harness from your car? The 96-00 civic wiring harness comes out of the car as 1 peice mostly. So swap out your harness. Leave the IAB pins out of the equation for now after you swap out the harnesses.

See if the car runs right. Then either just remove the vacuum line from the solenoid so the IABs stay open or wire up the IAB pins.

I hope that helps. Again, I'm in kind of a rush. If I read it wrong, I'll come back later and read it again carefully.

 

Well i wired up the IABs and man what a diffirence in low end. But i just wired them to the original locations the previous owner left. Which is A11 and A19. My question is will these pinouts work right? I mean supposibly from what i read the IABs run on a constant 12v which makes them stay shut,then when 5750rpm it drops the volts to 0v which causes it to open. But how can the pinouts i have now provide that type of Voltage support? Mayba 12v but not the dropping point.

As far as the other harness i have none. I only have the harness that was with that motormtha shop kept the old harness. So there goes that idea. Anyone want to explain how IABs work? Im a NOOB at B series engines.

 

Can anyone confirm me as to what has to be done to swap a B18c1 with a usdm p72 into a 97 Ej8. If im correct nothing is done to the engine harness except the IAB hook up. And how exactly does one hook that up? TIA

 

You shouldn't notice any difference in low end by wiring in IABs. You would notice a difference in top end.

The IABs are shut when there's a high vacuum in the manifold or when the RPM is below 5700.

Wiring in the IABs would make them open up at 5750. They are normally closed as soon as you turn on the car. They are closed mechanically by the solenoid and a rod.

IIRC, the way it works is that Vacuum is "stored" in the IAB solenoid. When the RPMs rise above 5700RPM, the wiring somehow releases that suction and in turn, the IABs open. I'm not 100% on that. But I'm almost sure.

Either way, if you left the wires completely out, the IABs may just not open at high RPM. They would just stay CLOSED at all times. So your low end would not be affected.

The IABs and wiring have very little to do with how well the car actually runs. I unplugged the solenoid to my IABs on my GSR before. It made it a little less torquey down low. That's about it.

When I installed my SKUNK2 manifold, I got rid of the IABs and unplugged the canister wiring. It was a 99 GSR. The CEL didn't even come on. The car ran JUST like it did before...except for a little less torquey down low.

Your problems are not in the IAB or IAB wiring unless it's wired to a location where it shouldn't be and it's sending the ECU 12V signals to another sensor. This is unlikely. 12V going to a sensor pin on the ECU would probably fry that part of the ECU.

What is the actual issue with the car? What is it doing wrong?

Is it just the CEL at 7k? Maybe you have a bad VTEC solenoid.

 

Well i understood that the iab's open at 5700 but if they are plugged in to a a11 pin wouldnt that not send the signal and it wont open? Also wouldnt it not be connected not shut the butterflies also? Cuz ever since i connected them i noticed a huge diffirence on how it runs. It ran great before then when it was swapped into my ek it ran like **** enough for me to notice. Also that is the only problem the CEL22. Can u tell me what exactly is done to the harness when swapping a USDM b18c into a 97 Ej8. Just to verify the work done on the wiring.

 

The IABs are closed mechanically and they are normally closed. The wiring does not close them. There's a one way valve going to the solenoid. Vacuum closes them.


The wiring done to modify a 97 EX harness to a GSR engine/ECU is very little. You add the two wires for the IABs. Pin them in. Done.

The only other thing is that you have to extend one of the VTEC connectors since the solenoid is farther away. I forget which one. For JDM ECUs, the ground wire does not go back to the ECU. It just grounds out somewhere. Since you have CEL 22, one of those above mentioned things may be your issue. What ECU are you using?

Although....a more likely issue is that your VTEC solenoid is just bad. VTEC comes on at 4500RPM...so the fact that the CEL turns on at 7k tells me that maybe there's an electrical or mechanical issue with the solenoid itself.

Again...what specifically is the car doing wrong when you say it "runs like ****"?

 

Well it felt like a D series....LoL. But like i said ever since i wired the IAbs it feels mor torquie at 4k or so. Dont know why though? I still dont have a answer as to why they are hooked up to those wires? Or if i should remove them and just do the a26 and a ground?


Also if it only runs on VACUUM then why in the "F" would it need voltage or a plug etc to work? Just curious

 

Well if there was no plug or voltage....it would just open the IABs at any time there was an absense of vacuum. So they wouldn't wait till 5750 to open. They would either open at WOT or open up incrementally as vacuum got weaker. It would defeat the purpose of the IABs.

I'm not sure about where they should be wired in. Try www.team-integra.net.

 

Hey well i just did oil change and noticed the Oil Pan is pretty dented. Can maybe that be my problem? Just Curios as to how i can check wether its a wiring issue or a actual oil pressure issue?

 

if you know anybody with an oil pressure gauge I would try that...a severly dented oil pan will deff affect oil pressure

 

Does the oil light come on at the same time?

 

No, no oil light at all. Just that when i turn the car on it takes about2-3 seconds to go off. Maybe ill just test the wiring from the pressure valve. See how it goes. Unless anyone else has a diffirent idea?

 

Bump

 

your silly, so does every honda in the world, the oil and cel light stay on momentarily, the cel means it is priming your engine

 

??????????

 

The oil light is on because it takes a moment to build pressure (normal). The CEL doesn't stay on to prime anything. What does that even mean?

The CEL stays on for a couple seconds to show that it's working...it's just a built in ECU parameter. It doesn't actually physically do anything.

 

Thanx for clearing that up bro. Well im gonna do all the wiring all over and probably change the oil pan and see how it goes.