GSR Sputtering and Dropping RPMs
My car is a 00 gsr all stock, 89k on it. It intermittently sputters and drops rpms really bad and heres a list of things that have already been changed that did not help....
Distributor, Wires, Plugs, TPS, MAP Sensor, Fuel filter, Fuel Pump, ECU(the guy at the shop said it seemed ok with a tuned ecu but was probably coincidence)
I guess the injectors are the next thing to try but I don't have too much faith in that being the problem with only 93 being put into the car since I got it with 70k on it.
Please let me know what else it could be...
Distributor, Wires, Plugs, TPS, MAP Sensor, Fuel filter, Fuel Pump, ECU(the guy at the shop said it seemed ok with a tuned ecu but was probably coincidence)
I guess the injectors are the next thing to try but I don't have too much faith in that being the problem with only 93 being put into the car since I got it with 70k on it.
Please let me know what else it could be...
Last edited by TonyRomo; Dec 8, 2008 at 11:53 AM.
No offense but you can do tests on parts such as tps, map, fuel pump etc. to make sure they are working properly before spending the money on new parts. Changing the ecu probably won't fix it because they usually only burn out when plugs get crossed doing swaps and what not. Plus if you change that ecu to another obd2b ecu you'll have to get the immobilizer reprogrammed to your keys which can be costly. Was the entire distributor changed or just parts in it like the ignitor, etc?
I would say maybe the crank position sensor inside the timing cover below the crank pulley could be a possibility. I would definately get a mitchell manual or go to your library if they have them there and photocopy the troubleshooting pages for what you are experiencing. The mitchell manual is exactly what the techs use and will guide you step by step troubleshooting procedures to find your problem. The chiltons, helms, etc. are decent but the mitchells is superior.
If worse comes to worse take it to the Acura Dealership. It's better than replacing a bunch of stuff they haven't even tested right just because it "could be" the fix. There is tests for every part on the car to determine if they are bad versus just replacing the parts because they "might" be the problem.
I would say maybe the crank position sensor inside the timing cover below the crank pulley could be a possibility. I would definately get a mitchell manual or go to your library if they have them there and photocopy the troubleshooting pages for what you are experiencing. The mitchell manual is exactly what the techs use and will guide you step by step troubleshooting procedures to find your problem. The chiltons, helms, etc. are decent but the mitchells is superior.
If worse comes to worse take it to the Acura Dealership. It's better than replacing a bunch of stuff they haven't even tested right just because it "could be" the fix. There is tests for every part on the car to determine if they are bad versus just replacing the parts because they "might" be the problem.
No offense but you can do tests on parts such as tps, map, fuel pump etc. to make sure they are working properly before spending the money on new parts. Changing the ecu probably won't fix it because they usually only burn out when plugs get crossed doing swaps and what not. Plus if you change that ecu to another obd2b ecu you'll have to get the immobilizer reprogrammed to your keys which can be costly. Was the entire distributor changed or just parts in it like the ignitor, etc?
I would say maybe the crank position sensor inside the timing cover below the crank pulley could be a possibility. I would definately get a mitchell manual or go to your library if they have them there and photocopy the troubleshooting pages for what you are experiencing. The mitchell manual is exactly what the techs use and will guide you step by step troubleshooting procedures to find your problem. The chiltons, helms, etc. are decent but the mitchells is superior.
If worse comes to worse take it to the Acura Dealership. It's better than replacing a bunch of stuff they haven't even tested right just because it "could be" the fix. There is tests for every part on the car to determine if they are bad versus just replacing the parts because they "might" be the problem.
I would say maybe the crank position sensor inside the timing cover below the crank pulley could be a possibility. I would definately get a mitchell manual or go to your library if they have them there and photocopy the troubleshooting pages for what you are experiencing. The mitchell manual is exactly what the techs use and will guide you step by step troubleshooting procedures to find your problem. The chiltons, helms, etc. are decent but the mitchells is superior.
If worse comes to worse take it to the Acura Dealership. It's better than replacing a bunch of stuff they haven't even tested right just because it "could be" the fix. There is tests for every part on the car to determine if they are bad versus just replacing the parts because they "might" be the problem.
Well to start off I swapped my friends distributor onto my car and then put in new plugs and wires.
I didn't really know what to do from there so I brought it to a shop that specializes in hondas. They put on all other parts, including another distributor. Many of them could be easily swapped because they just have them laying around as they do many engine swaps. Luckily I didn't have to buy these parts. Tomorrow they are swapping in some injectors and hopefully this works. I am going to mention to them the crank position sensor also. I'm sure they can swap one of those in too.
If there is anything else I could tell them to check please let me know. My next stop is the dreaded acura dealership.
Thanks
Well the car finally threw a tps code so I am assuming that is the problem, but I just had new one put on and calibrated because it was throwing that code before. I dunno what to do now, the shop is telling me to buy a new throttle body.... I made another thread just about the tps thing which explains it in more detail... https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-integra-6/tps-issue-2448547/
Oh cool at least you didn't have to buy parts. It is easier to just swap a known working part on there than to troubleshoot it. I would say if the tps is throwing a code then just buy another tps. I don't see how the throttle body is gonna affect anything so I wouldn't change that.
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they told him to buy a new t-body because the sensor is built into to and sold as one peice at the dealer .. just take your t-body off and drill out the two pins that hold the tps sensor in place then go to the local hardware store and buy the bolts u need and tap it so u can thread them in a tps sensor is like 30 bucks , or u could just buy a whole new t-body my skunk one came with tps screws so that was pretty cool , its sucks but u gotta do it i forget how much a stock replacement comes for from the dealer
they told him to buy a new t-body because the sensor is built into to and sold as one peice at the dealer .. just take your t-body off and drill out the two pins that hold the tps sensor in place then go to the local hardware store and buy the bolts u need and tap it so u can thread them in a tps sensor is like 30 bucks , or u could just buy a whole new t-body my skunk one came with tps screws so that was pretty cool , its sucks but u gotta do it i forget how much a stock replacement comes for from the dealer
also did u swap intake mani on it make sure u didnt mix your tps sensor with your map sensor i think they are the same plugs not sure , make sure the wires arnt lose , make sure the grounds on them are good it could be somthing little , .. or sadly somthing big
to recap: After all of this bs the car finally threw that same tps code again. The guys where I brought the car told me that if the mechanical part of the throttle body is bad it could make the tps dysfunction, hence the code. So I dropped 80 bucks on a pretty clean stock gsr with tps and map from ebay and as soon as it went on the car the code was gone and car runs fine.
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