1990 integra non-vtec stock just purchased. It has a new distributor, wires (but they didn't change the plugs???!?) Been driving it for about two weeks, did an oil change on it a week ago and no problems until the last two days. Power seems to be low and it is sputtering and seems to be either missfiring or not running on all four. Today I drove it about 120 k's then on the last 20 k's the power really got down and the car idles bad and has no power. I took out the spark plugs and one was black with black deposits on it and the others had ash deposits, but they seemed fine. I cleaned them up and put them back in but the problem persists. Tomorrow I will purchase new ones. Any ideas on the power loss before I take it to a shop?

 

Could be a old fuel filter, dirty injectors, faulty o2 sensor, maybe even a filthy air filter. You can also check for an exhaust leak somewhere.

 

I know the exhaust leaks, on the mufflers, but would that cause what is happening?

 

well my mechanic friend just came over and told me that there is no compression in #4. I guess it is a needs a new engine. fkkfkfkfkfkkfkfkfk

 

sorry to hear that man...

 

that blows wat u gonna drop in K swap?!

 

well my budget is 1000 so I am looking around for another b18a, since I can't afford anything else. The only other option is the b18b from nagasaki motors, but I need to know If I can hook up my old computer to this new engine or I might have to buy the complete swap kit. Or would I have to change over the intake and all the other hardware to the new engine and then good to go? Any help on the swap would be greatly appreciated.

 

depending on your location hmotorsonline might be a better option. also, i wonder what failed? exhaust valves fragmenting is a common honda failure. you can band aid these with new valves but your problem will lie with everything else. if a motor is so old and tired the valves frag my vote is to order the low mile jdm engine since the b18b is so cheap. if you had a b18c i'd be saying rebuild. this stuff is all about dollars.

 

well nagasaki is 550 and they are in delta and I am on vancouver island. Hmrmotorsports are 750 and I have no idea where they are located. The bad engine is a b18a1 and I think it is a piston ring cause when I changed the oil it was watery and quite a lot of it. I'm thinking the owner knew about it and sold it to me before it was too late. Just goes to show if you don't get new cars checked out before you buy them you could be getting screwed.

 

opinions on weather or not the previous owner knew about the problem before he sold it to me?

 

ill belive he know and off loaded it to u sucks mean live and learn and b18b1 and b16 head ftw

 

To update, My mechanic found a b18a from a junkyard for 600 cash but it is from a 1992. I know everybody is going to say to go with the b18b, but I cannot afford it, plus the change to obd 1 would wreck my budget (850 delivered for b18b) Is there anything different with the 1990 to 1992 engines that I would have to look out for or is it a direct swap. I also need to know if I need the 1992 ecu for this newer engine or can I keep my own.

 

I also need to know what year I should use when I buy a clutch. I am going to buy an act clutch and the years are 1990-1991 and 1992-93 the engine that I am using is the 92 and the tranny is the 90.

 

Why not just do an LS VTEC build? Put in some High compression honda pistons and get a b16/GSR Head. It'd cost a little more than the LS you found but you'd have a lot more power and basically a rebuilt engine.

 

Eventually I might get to that, but then I might as well sell this car and buy a acura gsr, cause I am still pumping money into a 18 year old car. I am trying to do this build as cheap as possible. If I switch to vtec then I have to change over everything in the electronics (obd0 to obd 1 or 2) My mechanic doesn't know too much about swaps, so I am trying to keep the swap as simple as possible. I need this car fixed in two days so I can get to work and not miss any days of work. I have already priced out machining the block and working out the head and it came to a total of over 600 without parts. Things needed for swap b16 head , pistons & rings, dizzy, ecu, obd swap, eagle vtec swap adapter kit. The whole ls b16 build will cost me over 2g, closer to 3g with install. I can hardly even scrape up 1000 for the car.
In short that is why.
I just want this car to run reliable on low octane gas until I can sell this car and buy something newer.

 

maybe its the head gasket if the oil seems watery... posssibly coolant mixed with the oil?

 

Thanks for the tip, I might just need a new head too, over 4000 rpm I hear ticking. Well I'm snowed in so I might pull off the head today. Will update later with photos if I pull the head. If it needs a new head I will go with a 92 head for better flow.

 

pulled the head yesterday and found a broken exhaust valve, no need for new engine. Thanks for the input. Replacing all the valves and putting the stock head back in.