Before anyone tells me to search, I did!

Can anyone either point me in the right direction or let me know if Skunk2 Pro 1 cams with an OEM headgasket and a JDM H22 head shaved .030" would provide enough clearance?

-Jason

 

clay your motor. Only way to know.

 

I am obviously trying to avoid this and hoping to rely on another members personal experience or knowledge. Thanks though...

-J

 

do not rely on the internet. Clay.

 

how does claying work? I read up on it but it does not fully make sense too me.

 

u need to lock in vtec in one cyclinder
put clay in that cyclinder
get the motor timmed, adj ur cam gears aggressive
rotate the motor over a few times, pull the head off
let the clay dry..... meausure the divites at the deepest point with a micrometer
thats ur p2v,,,,,,,, there a couple of other ways too

this is the way i did it
with no head gasket at all on sk2 stg2 tunner cams there was like .015 of clearence with type s pistons on my motor,,,,,,,,, i cant remember how it was with usdm pistons im perty sure it was about the same,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

im geussing pro1's would be ok but measuring it urself is the best

 

I think there was a write up awhile back on proper way to clay a motor let me look around

 

Heres a pretty good writeup on how to do it.

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/claymotor/clay.php

Common reccomend minimum clearences:

P2H: .035"
P2V: .040"


If you intend to use adjustable cam gears. Its reccomended to clay your motor at up to +/- 3 on cam gears for possible maximum adjustment.

I also reccomend going to opposite way after you clay it to find V2V clearences just because. This is the common way people bend valves when overreving their motor anyway moreso then either of the ones your claying. The valves springs rebound rate isnt fast enough at 10k rpms on a stock motor to open and shut the valves quick enough to not impact one another.

 

woah that does not look fun at all.

 

You should be fine as far as my own expierence goes. Have a type-sh block sitting in my garage I had in my car before the Euro-r and it has type-s pistons, eagle h-beams, and acl bearings(most besides the point) and ran .025 shave on my head and had the block decked running the Pro2 cams over 8k with no issues. Currentley Running the Pro2's in my EuroR for over 6k with no issues. Yours being only Pro1's you shouldnt have any issues, search around I'm sure your not the only person trying to or actually doing this. Or you can clay the motor it just takes alot of time, kinda like building the motor twice, but well worth it if you think about it. Also a side note I recall on the cam card it saying to make sure to degree the cams upon installation and not adjusting them to avoid and overlap happing. That could just have been for the Pro2's I'm not too sure but I'd look it over if I were you. I degreed my cams when I put them in and they made the best power, not the most peak but best overall power set at 0/0 tunes on Hondata S200. Im willing to sacrafice some top end power for some low/midrange torque!!

 

How do you correctly degree cams? I have heard this term tossed around alot but i have never heard someone clearly explain how to do this.