which is better
You would be looking for a lower compression piston.....ie a dished piston.
Your stock pistons are 8.8:1 compression. That is good for boosting and they will hold up to a certain HP. Then you have to start looking at installing forged internals.
What are your power goals?
Your stock pistons are 8.8:1 compression. That is good for boosting and they will hold up to a certain HP. Then you have to start looking at installing forged internals.
What are your power goals?
Forged / Dished piston. Shoot for no more that 8.5:1 to 9.0:1 on pump gas.
The reason?
Detonation, and how to control it. And it all comes down to combustion pressures.
Boosting a high compression engine leads to busted / melted pistons, cracked liners and bent rods because the mechanical compression is added to by the boost pressures. At 7 pounds boost, you're effectively at 1.5 Atmospheres.
Quick rule of thumb:
Domed Pistons / All Motor High Compression
Dished Pistons / Boost Motor Moderate Compression
P
The reason?
Detonation, and how to control it. And it all comes down to combustion pressures.
Boosting a high compression engine leads to busted / melted pistons, cracked liners and bent rods because the mechanical compression is added to by the boost pressures. At 7 pounds boost, you're effectively at 1.5 Atmospheres.
Quick rule of thumb:
Domed Pistons / All Motor High Compression
Dished Pistons / Boost Motor Moderate Compression
P
i am trying to get around 300but i know its out there but i am getting all new internals that are forged with 8.5:1 and about max boost of maybe 15-20. i've done a couple other engines with out boost but this is the first one with plus its my own car.
Forged / Dished piston. Shoot for no more that 8.5:1 to 9.0:1 on pump gas.
The reason?
Detonation, and how to control it. And it all comes down to combustion pressures.
Boosting a high compression engine leads to busted / melted pistons, cracked liners and bent rods because the mechanical compression is added to by the boost pressures. At 7 pounds boost, you're effectively at 1.5 Atmospheres.
Quick rule of thumb:
Domed Pistons / All Motor High Compression
Dished Pistons / Boost Motor Moderate Compression
P
The reason?
Detonation, and how to control it. And it all comes down to combustion pressures.
Boosting a high compression engine leads to busted / melted pistons, cracked liners and bent rods because the mechanical compression is added to by the boost pressures. At 7 pounds boost, you're effectively at 1.5 Atmospheres.
Quick rule of thumb:
Domed Pistons / All Motor High Compression
Dished Pistons / Boost Motor Moderate Compression
P
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If you need help let me know... PSI is irrelevent as it differs greatly from one snail to the next.... 1 bar on a gt42r is nowhere near the same as a t3/04e 57 trim huffer. Shoot for a power goal. 300-375 can be had reliably on a stock block/rods/pistons... If youre running a sleeved block, I suggest CP pistons and theres no reason youd need anything other than Eagle rods.... You can also run a H22 crank, rods, and get custom slugs built (highrer wristpin location). There are a few options for you out there. Youll get around 8-9:1 depending on how much the head/deck have been shaved... Which is PERFECTLY fine. When you oorder your pistons, just specify FI pistons. The manufacture will hook you up!!!
The pistons you get will Most probably be flat or mildly dished.... Nice thing is about the bigger bore is that they are more friendly towards detonation threshold than smaller bore motors. There are alot of other contributing factors to detonation threshold such as IAT, Timing, CC design and quench are... BUt thats another story.
A sleeved properly built block will withstand 6-700 HP and beyond... Your head will hold you back though... Id swap out for a F22Ax head, or go for the H22-23 swap (G series)... Thats only a suggestion.
USE OEM bearings. Period. You can get away with ACLS, but HOndas bearings are second to NONE. THey are a bit more pricey, but its worthe EVERY penny, and its MUCH easier to get your tolerances spot on.
TUTORIAL:
1 atm is 14.7 PSI
1 BAR is 14.5 PSI
Bar to PSI = bar * 14.5
PSI to Bar = 14.5 / PSI
ALthough absolute pressure at 7.25 PSI TECHNICALLY does = 1.5 BAR pressure, its not commonly referred to in that context so if youre running 7.25 (just an example to make the math simple) PSI say that, not 1.5 BAR... MOst people will look at you funny, as that would be closer to 21, not 7 LOL.
Remember that 1 atm does NOT = 1 BAR its a negligable difference, but it IS indeed different...
LMK if you need help.
The pistons you get will Most probably be flat or mildly dished.... Nice thing is about the bigger bore is that they are more friendly towards detonation threshold than smaller bore motors. There are alot of other contributing factors to detonation threshold such as IAT, Timing, CC design and quench are... BUt thats another story.
A sleeved properly built block will withstand 6-700 HP and beyond... Your head will hold you back though... Id swap out for a F22Ax head, or go for the H22-23 swap (G series)... Thats only a suggestion.
USE OEM bearings. Period. You can get away with ACLS, but HOndas bearings are second to NONE. THey are a bit more pricey, but its worthe EVERY penny, and its MUCH easier to get your tolerances spot on.
TUTORIAL:
1 atm is 14.7 PSI
1 BAR is 14.5 PSI
Bar to PSI = bar * 14.5
PSI to Bar = 14.5 / PSI
ALthough absolute pressure at 7.25 PSI TECHNICALLY does = 1.5 BAR pressure, its not commonly referred to in that context so if youre running 7.25 (just an example to make the math simple) PSI say that, not 1.5 BAR... MOst people will look at you funny, as that would be closer to 21, not 7 LOL.
Remember that 1 atm does NOT = 1 BAR its a negligable difference, but it IS indeed different...
LMK if you need help.
Last edited by extralargenog; Dec 5, 2008 at 01:33 PM.
do they have DOHC for the a head or are they all SOCH??????????? or would it matter if i have two cams instead of one cuz i still have the F22A1 head. i just swaped the engines
Yes sir,
I found that out after endlessly searching for F22B2 parts myself.
Honda part number reference.
1996 Accord DX 2.2L F22B2
Crankshaft = 13310-P0A-000
Connecting Rod = 13210-PT3-A00
1994 Prelude Si 2.3L H23
Crankshaft = 13310-P0A-000
Connecting Rod = 13210-PT3-A00
I found that out after endlessly searching for F22B2 parts myself.
Honda part number reference.
1996 Accord DX 2.2L F22B2
Crankshaft = 13310-P0A-000
Connecting Rod = 13210-PT3-A00
1994 Prelude Si 2.3L H23
Crankshaft = 13310-P0A-000
Connecting Rod = 13210-PT3-A00
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