So after i got my turbo kit on i seem to have head lift issues. At least thats what i think it is.

anyway

chipped p28

Greddy 15g kit @ 6 psi
y7block
eagle rods
cp 9.1 pistons

y8 head
crane cam and springs

 

You need to get on a dyno to do it right.

You can give it more timing then that.


Morgantown is about and hour from my dyno. once you fix your head issue. come on up.

 

where are you in pitt? you arnt hybrid dynamics are you?

well im not sure if its cause my arps are old (used 10 times) or timing is lifting my head.

 

make sure you put the new timing code into crome

 

^what new timing codes?>

 

yea make sure u have the crome timing fix installed...

either way, u arent lifting the head at 6psi @15* of timing...

wahts the car doing???

if its filling the overflow check the cap first

the arp's in my car have seen 3 different cars and proly been torqued to 75 ft lbs (with moly) at least 8 or 9 times lol...

what exactly is the car doin? pm me on wvms man

control+k and then enter this script if u r using a p30 rom:

_rom_fill(0x58e6, 0x590d, 0x00); _rom_fill(0x6a99, 0x6ac0, 0x00);

that lets the timing work like normal instead of having a min timing number...

 

wow i didnt know there was a timing problem in crome.

the cap should be fine its pretty new. At idle there is no bubbles or anything i can see in the rad.

Truthfully i think its cause i have tq the head down to 70 lbs but this last time i only did 65 because well im not sure why i did.

i am going to re tq the head down to 70 ish and see if it solves it.

the car runs great no problem what so ever. no smoke really at idle just when i im getting on it i see white smoke coming out the end.

I wouldnt say it would overflow my coolant but def noticeable increase in coolant in the overflow.

 

the only time I had my head lift on 5psi (when i had stock head bolts) was I didn't check advanced tables > timing advance in Crome.

Stock honda code advances timing for some reason and I didnt zero it out.

 

make usre u have the timing synced at the dizzy... make sure u add the timing fix, which i dont think is going to make a difference at 6psi...

u sure its not just where the temp has changed??? i really dont see the head being lifted at such a low boost level? whats your target afr in boost?

65 ft lbs shoudl be fine on the headstuds man, you should change your rad cap and see if it keeps your overflow dry...

dry overflow=no headlift

also, everytime ive ever seen a d with headlift problems, it litterally fills up the overflow in a matter of a pull or two...

 

ill do the timing fix as soon as i can.

teh afr is 11.5 give or take some through out the whole rpm in boost well mostly.

i am just afraid that since i tq them down to 70 last time i might of streched them since i only did them to 65 this time.

ill see if i can source another cap or buy one see if it does anything.

see thats whats strange is cause ill rip on it for half the day and itll only push like a cup or so of coolant in the overflow.

 

when the engine cools does the coolant level drop in the overflow?

 

^nope

come on now im not that big of a dummy

 

Well, I can offer you this.. I am running about 10 degrees MORE timing then you with my setup and have 0 issues. I am running 7-8psi on the internal gate (Edelbrock kit) but sometimes I see 10psi. Never an issue..

Y8 block and head
Vitaras, FJT custom length I beams
Edelbrock kit
ARP head studs

 

^blah...

so then its either my head studs or my gasket.


i forgot to mention im am running a cometic .71 inch head gasket...

 

Nope just a local civic guy that Picked up dyno. I am located is Clairton PA. The name of my shop is Pittsburgh Performance.

65ft lbs isent very much. Last time i torqed down my studs it was 78 with oil. what head gasket are you on?

 

If your having issues run an OEM gasket!

 

i still dont think its the headgasket... unless u just have that bad of luck

 

^ i really do have bad luck with this car...ask anyone here that worked on my car its a time eater...no matter how simple the project it always takes a long time.

i cant run an OEM gasket cause ill have piston to head contact. I need that .71 gasket cometic gasket.

i am going to retq my studs to 75lb hopefully that works.

 

I would then suggest junk the head or block, whatever was milled to oblivian. My z6 has 9:1 wisecos, zero contact with a stock HG, and I've cranked it to 18psi already w/o 'respectable' timing.

My old z6, bone stock w/reused HG & oem bolts, would SPRAY coolant all over when above 10psi with a t3/t04b s-trim turbo. I'd have to say its the HG, since your setup is technically better than my old stock setup, but with smaller turbo/less timing/less boost.

You could save a bunch of time/money by milling the pistons down. That might be the best setup, since you can save the rings & bearings already present. .040" is a fraction off the ringlands, nothing to worry about.


One last thing - sometimes blocks and/or heads are just junk, and not worth saving.

 

^eh i cant junk the block ....

its a aebs sleeved block with what was stateded above the og machinist set the sleeves wrong and they sunk. I had to get laskey to rebuild the whole thing. way too much money to just throw it away.

head was just recently rebuilt.

i am going to tq the bolts down to 75 instead of 65 see if that helps. ill let you guys know.

 

dang how much did your sleeves sink

 

^enough to feel a big difference in the sleeve level vs block since its a closed deck design.

 

hmmm, thats strange man... what headgasket are u using?

thats a really thick headgasket... swap to some vitaras no chance for piston to head contact

anyway, i agree, no scrapping the block...

id go 75 ft lbs wtih moly lube... on a new headgasket and then call it a day... its not timing related, at 6 psi with that kinda compression i really dont see it being from running 14-16* of timing at 6psi lol im running a **** ton more than that on street tuned y8 cars around here lol...

iono man, id go new headgasket and torque to 75 ft lbs with moly lube...

 

ya im going to do that.

well first im going to retq it first see if that solves it if not then...call cometic...pay another 125 bucks...and then do another head gasket swap

 

alright...

i took the valve cover off and retq them bolts. It is NOT correctly tq as it was 20 degrees out and i didnt take them off to relube i just tq them.

i started at 65 to make sure all of them are on correctly. They are

so i did 70 lbs and all of them just clicked on my tq wrench so it didnt go anywhere.

So i did 75lbs and some of the moved a lil to tighten.

i know the tq specs arnt going to be correctly without molly or even any lube in there.

well i took it for about 10 pulls and no more blowing huge amount of white smoke out of my tail pipe when im in full boost. So i no longer burn coolant

cept now i took a look in my overflow and little bubbles are coming out of the tube...****...when i hit my launch control and let off a lil bigger bubble comes up...

so i guess my studs are getting worn to some degree since it solved the white smoke coming out of my exhaust specially while in im full boost i look like a steam boat.

I am going to do that timing fix if that doesnt solve teh rest of the problems

i guess i need to loosen all the studs and retq them down correctly to see if that solves all the problems.

and if that doesnt work then...well i guess new studs/gasket see if that fixes it...blah blah blah