Ok, I have a 96 Integra LS with a GSR swap. Before the swap I never noticed it. A little bit after the swap I started to notice a little vibration ONLY under acceleration. Doesn't matter what speed/gear. I just replaced the axles today because the one was going bad so I just replaced both sides with brand new (not remans). And now I feel the vibartion a lot more, when I'm on the gas it's there as soon as I let go it's gone. It's worse when I full throttle it, when on it lightly don't feel it as much. I'm in the process of replaced the front end suspension little by little but what should I suspect first so I can deal with that? Thanks

 

sometimes you can get bad axles, brand new or not. find out if you can take the new axles you got back to get replaced.

make sure your wheel weights are still on.

 

I thought that too. Wheel weights are still on and my rear 2 rims are sh*t anyway from massive potholes so I get a high speed rear vibration from that. But this is in the front and it was there with my old ones. What would be the odds of the same vibration, I only replaced my other ones because of a bad boot that just ripped a few days ago.

Now I did forget to mention I made my lower front motor mounts solid with poly urathene. Did anyone experience that? But why get worse with new axles

 

anyone.... I have free time to fix it today just need an idea.

 

By filling your front two mounts you will def. notice a vibration. Any little vibration will now be amplified by the mounts. Also new axles sometimes need a little time to smooth out. There is a more technical term I am sure, but smooth out works for me. Good luck!

 

um... i had this problem.... then my shifter fork broke in my transmission after having the problem for a few months, well changed transmission, and never had that problem again, so i assumed that the problem was in the transmission somehow..

 

Vibration only under load = bad inner axle joints. To be sure, get under the car and grab the axle shaft, and see if you can feel any freeplay in the inner joint. Any at all, even the tiniest amount, will cause vibration under load. There should be ZERO freeplay at all CV joints, both inner and outer. By freeplay I mean one joint being able to turn a slight amount independent of the axle shaft. When you spin one tire while it's off the ground, both CV joints and the axle shaft should all move completely in unison with the tire/wheel. You should be able to see/hear/feel any freeplay in the joints.

My passenger side axle that I just replaced this past weekend looked 100% fine from visual inspection, but there was a tiny amount of freeplay at the outer joint, and sure enough it clicked when making left turns under load.

 

Well I took out the mounts out that I made soild and the idle vibration and what not obviously went away.

I replaced both axles again and the major vibration is now gone again but I'm still stuck with the slight vibration when under a load again. It's very light but enough to notice. I also went ahead and replaced the lower ball joints & tie rod ends on both sides.

Now my next question, is I lowered the car about 3 inches and my alignment is obviously off which I have to get corrected. My question is will a bad alignment cause the light vibration. If I remember correctly it wasn't there before I lowered it but I don't remember if it was there AS SOON as I lowered it or started after the fact.

 

best way is to change your tranny fluid mix with lucas fix fluid.i just change new axles on my 91 sedan and it was wobbleing vibrating like crazy.find out it was the wrong axles.now it only vibrate slightly sometime under load.with new fix fuild in tranny shaft it went away.gl

 

ummm how would any sort of fluid affect mechanical vibrations in the vehicle?

 

posibly the tranny is not gribin the shaft and cause vibration?are recheck your axles.

 

Sorry man, your posts aren't very clear. I have never heard of fluid causing a vibration. If it's low on fluid, it will usually just make the tranny pop out of 5th or something.

 

Well I need just recehck my axles. The passenger side axle housing wiggles like crazy. Not the shaft itselfs in the housing, the housing sticking into the trans. I called my parts store and talked with the one guy and he said he's seen multiple problems with a company GSP and their "brand new" axles. Now could anything be wrong inside my trans with the housing goes into or highly unlikely? I had them get reman axles from powerline, I'd rather go with them since they were someones old broken ones. It's almost like the little shaft that goes into the trans is too small in diameter for the trans itself. I've never seen so many problems with axles before, now that I think about it, I never got brand new either, always remans. Can anyone comment on brand new?

 

Where are you buying the axles from? Generic axles for any parts stores tend to have bad joints off the bat. Try getting some honda oem axles, they are more expensive but worth it.

 

Didnt read through all the posts, but an intermediate shaft thats worn out, will cause slight vibration as well. If its been sais sorry. But thats also where I would look.

 

that's actually where I'm getting them from is a parts store. I'm gonna try the remans and if that don't work long than I'll get oem. Anyone know about how much they run?

 

Reman. through Acura are list 176.41 per side, and new ones through Acura are list 315.98 per side. I am sure you can do better than that price, but not much better than say 140.00 per side for the reman. and $250 per side for the brand new.

 

well I work at a shop so might be a tad better. I'll let you guys know how I make out with the remans either tomorrow or Friday

 

Have you thought about the possibility of clutch chatter?

 

1. Alignment issues will most definitely cause a vibration (esp. toe), but the fact that the vibration is only under slight load/low speed would kind of rule that out. Either way it's worth the money to align your car after lowering your vehicle for the sake of tire wear/steering.

2. Possible wheel bearing issue could cause a vibration, but only if basically ready to fall out of the hub...plus you would hear it.

3. Maybe I've been lucky but I've never had an issue with generic axels. I've broke a few at the track but had a lifetime warranty with them so it seemed to be a reasonable tradeoff (rather than paying 315.00 or even 175.00 for Acura remans I was paying 50.00 plus a core).

4. If all else fails with your axel issues try rebalancing your tires...

GL...

 

Well the alignemnt will most def. be done as soon as I can, just a matter of when. Plus I need to buy a camber kit for the front.

Wheel bearing I thought too but like you said it would be falling out by now.

I actually did rebalance my tires at the same time I did all the work. My steel wheels are all sh*t. Ever heavy potholes or massive crubs. My rear 2 wheels are so bad I can't even balance them, it wants way too much weight. I'll the axles first again. Than as soon as I find some wheels I'll do the camber kit and alignment. Hopefully that all solves it.

 

Process of elimination is tedious and expensive...

 

Well, I replaced my "new" axles for remans this morning and took it around the block and it's a smooth riding as a baby's butt. I took the solid mounts out and even better, I'll worry about the mounts when I'm making 300hp, not right now. So in end STAY AWAY from GSP "new" axles or any new besides OEM. Remans are the second best thing.

My only question is the axle housing for the passenger side still wiggles when it's sticking in the trans. Would this be "normal" or is it time to start thinking about an LSD install??

 

The inner axle joint should NOT have any movement at all, other than from the differential's own turning motion. The diff has a splined hole that matches the splined shaft of the axle joint. Their size should match exactly. It definitely shouldn't be able to move around, unless you got the wrong axle with smaller splines. But then if the splined shaft were smaller, I would think that axle would be popping out all the time.

Is there any fluid leaking out at all? Maybe I don't understand what you're referring to by the "wiggling" joint.

And why do you need a camber kit? In most cases you DON'T need one unless you're trying to add more negative camber for track purposes.

 

Well your thinking exactly what I'm explaining and I thought the same thing too about the size of the shaft being smaller in dia. But if that were the cause like you said I'd either strip the hell out of it under hard load and the splines just breaking free or it would pop out. I just don't understand why it would be moving unless something is messed up in the trans but I don't have any signs of that either. No fluid leaking from what I see but I'll keep my eye on it, I just might have to go OEM is I keep having any problems.

I was going to put the camber on to correct my currently neg. camber so my tires don't go to junk.