here's is my issue, when the car is standing and i move the steering wheel to the sides, teh idle will drop to almost 300 rpms and if i keep doing it it will kill it, i have already bought a new iacv valve, it didn't help, bought a used FITV from ebay, screwed in the plastic to where it could still move, no go, checked the vacuum hoses coming from the throttle body, they were good, lastly i cleaned out my egr valve and this helped the car idle a lot better, (for a second i thought this had fixed the issue for the car because it now does not surge) but i still have that issue where if i start turning my steering wheel with the car not moving the rpm's drop too much and if i keep doing this it will stop the engine, i know you guys are plagued with idle issues being posted up when there is already, but i have done my research and taken out my tb too many times now, man i even made a manila folder gasket for the damn throttlebody cuz i cannot afford to wait 2-3 days to get it. the next i will look into is the power steering switch since it only does this when i move my steering wheel, what would you guys suggest? any educated input is appreciated

 

change the power steering pressure switch

 

There is a sensor on the steering that is supposed to increase the idle speed when you move the steering wheel. If the idle stays good when you turn on the air conditioner or put it in gear (automatic trans), then the IAC is good to go. The IAC is not getting the signal to speed up the motor when the steering is moved.

I am not sure if the power steering pressure switch is the same - The diagram that I have shows something called a steering speed switch. But this is definitely where to start.

 

Ok this is happening to me too... The car idles fine until the car is warmed up. As soon as the car is nice and warm and i steer to the left or right, the idle goes way down. Then if the car is driven for a while and you try to park lets stay, the car will shut off as soon as you turn the steering wheel. I'll go check the EGR. Where is the diagram that shows this steering speed switch?

 

Does the idle drop immensly when trying to do anything else electric related such as turning on the lights/heater/AC? It could be a loose alternator belt.

 

What RPM does your car idle at when warm?

 

Any update???

 

no update yet, im short on cash now, im waiting until next check to try and get money for the switch, my alternator belt is not loose already checked it, and my rpm's stay consistently at 750 rpms, it only starts surging when the car is at rest and i start moving the steering wheel to teh left and right, which makes me think the problem is realted to teh steering somehow

 

it seems i finally got to the culprit of my idle issue. i ended up blocking the erg, cleaning out the fitv as well as gettign a new iacv to try and fix it. I was about to check timing as well, only to find out i couldn't because i do not have timing marks on the flywheel. So then i started reading the manual again, and found a section on adjusting idle, it seems i had messed with the idle screw a long time ago n forgot to loosen it up, this was not letting enough air for the car to idle correctly. It would make the rpm's drop to quickly by just putting the clutch in to the point it would die. I loosened it up n voila, problem solved. i hope this can help someone else who thinks they have tried everything they could to fix their idle

 

blocking your egr might eventually start causing misfires... it worked fine for me for about 2 years then started making my engine run like ****

it only activates the egr when you dont need power anyways so theres not much of a point to doing it... i would get rid of that block off plate

 

Change your power steering pump.

 

Ok I am having similar symptoms like the ones mentioned. I thought it was the EGR or the IAC. My alternator belt ripped a bit and its only hanging on for dear life, which makes me think that this is now the culprit. DEENG so many options.

 

well my power steering works fine, i really don't see how it could be the pump, i was speaking a friend of mine and he suggested to adjust the fitv again , ill probably do that again as well as take care of unblocking the egr

 

I pmed you

 

heres an update on my old post...while helping out a buddy of mine with his prelude he gave me an egr valve that he had bought and only used for about a month..i swapped out mine w/his cleaned the egr port w/carb cleaner before installing it installed it and noticed a big difference. The car idled better quite smooth and the problem with the car stalling when inputting the clutch stopped....thing is that this works for about a month and as soon a carbon starts bulding up the idle problems start emerging again...so i redo a cleaning of the egr valve and port to get it working normally again....i have a fpr that i just bought i will try leaning the car a little to see if i cut down the carbon build up...i will post results back up as soon as i do this

 

update: i installed the adjustable fpr about 2 weeks ago and dropped the fuel pressure, w/the fpr line disconnected i was getting about 36psi ; idropped to about 31 psi w/the line disconected and pinched...after that the car ran smoother but it didn't fix the problem, started reading more threads about idle issues and started reading about egr ports; and how to go about and clean them; the right way to do this is by drilling out the manifold plugs, cleaning them and installing new ones in but i also read in another thread about someguy in a shop unplugging the egr valve placing a shop towel on the exhaust side of and adding either carb cleaner or any type of carbon build up cleaner in the vacuum side of the egr valve port. He would do this for obd2 models w/the egr flow cel. I decided to try this but with the use of seamfoam for the vacuum port of the egr port. i did this by putting a small hose in the vacuum side of the egr port and connecting to a water bottle where i put the seafoam in. I started the car and let the idle bounce since this causes a huge vacuum with the motor running, as im doing this i am putting the hose in a small waterbottle where i collected the seafoam and let the vacuum suck out the seafoam after i ran out of seafoam i also dumped about half a bottle of carb cleaner i had lying around to make sure the ports get their fair share spraying. The difference is like night and day; no more stalling at stoplights ,when having the clutch in, or when turing the steering wheel ....i would recommend this to who ever has been having this type of idle/stalling problem.....btw i used to think that just by cleaning out spark plugs the spark plugs would be fine or that because i had ngk wires they would last forever.....boy was i wrong.... hopefully this post will help out any other fellow luders who have already cleaned their iacv, taken out their fitv and screwed in the screw, checked for vacuums or all the other unecessary s***t trying to keep their ludes from dying on them