Hey there! The 01 Accord Automatic has a few been running great so far all these years. But recently in the past few month, I've been getting this problem, even though it rarely happens.

Basically, a few times, when I was coming to a stop, the engine decides to stall/die on me or rev really low. It almost felt like it was running on 2 cylinders or something. So sometimes I had to rev it either in neutral or hold down the brake in D4, just to keep the engine alive.

The car has around 90k on it. Did all the maintenance.

What's your insight into this problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

low alt output?

lockup not disengaging on TQ converter?

any CEL?

vaccum leak?

 

If it were ignition related, you'd most likely have a misfire code and a "check engine" lamp displaying.
Yes, the "Linear Apply" Lock up converter MAY not be completely releasing (rare, but possible)
Or, you could have an EGR valve staying partially open. thus the "running on two (2) cylinders" observation.
Just more to confuse things

P

 

Well there's no CEL. I couldn't find any vacuum leak. Alternator should be just fine because the car starts up great all the time.
I want to test the lock up convertor. Can you tell me how? Because it usually happens from 50+ mph to stop.

 

WOW, nobody said to clean the thottlebody and Idle Air Controller (if this engine has one). Pull a spark plug and see how it is looking also.

Alternators can be intermittent.

Pop the tranny into Neutral before coming to a stop and see if that helps any. Dont forget you are in N and coast into the guy behind you when you get ready to go again.

 

Actually, I recently put in a new set of spark plugs, and I did clean the tb about a month ago. So yea.. lol

Since this problem is intermittent, I'm going to leave it alone. Does anyone know how to test the lock up solenoid?

 

My '91 Accord had the same problem 2 years ago, it was a simple fix and haven't had a problem since.

Locate the vaccum hose coming from your brake boost pump. Follow the vacuum hose until you find it connects with what looks like a plastic junction. That plastic junction (its actually a valve) is what needs to be replaced.

Basically what's happening is when you apply the brakes that valve is not opening causing your motor to starve as you stop, ultimately shutting the car off. If that doesn't work then your next move is to change your brake boost.

Instead of paying costly dealer price, you should go to a junk yard to find that valve...and you should find it's an easy job you can handle and save a lot of dough!!.

 

Testing the valve is not proof positive that it is actually doing its job, I am not a tranny man but there may be a pressure port to hook up a pressure gauge to see if lock up is actually happening.

The solenoid could be getting power but it may not operate, the solenoid may operate but it may be clogged and not allowing fluid to flow as designed, the lock up system in the tranny may be failing if everything with the solenoid is good.

 

Sorry for the late reply. I've recently have encountered approx 10 stalls ever since the last post. Which is pretty bad. I don't feel safe driving that car anymore. =((

The lock up is good, there is nothing wrong, locks up just fine at 50, and it does unlock itself under acceleration on freeway.

I want to try skilltpa's hose thing. Is there a way to test it? I have a 96 Accord and RSX. Could I swap it out or clean it??? Thanks!

 

The hose is the brake booster check valve, after a short drive you can disconnect the side of the hose between the check valve and the intake manifold, nothing should happen, when you disconnect the hose from the booster or the side of the check valve closest to the booster, there should be a rush of air sound as air is sucked into the booster. The check valve is holding a vacuum in the booster in case of engine failure, there will be some vacuum to give you a few pumps of brakes (power brakes) for easy stopping.

You can remove this valve and blow into it from both directions, only one direction should allow air from your mouth to blow through, make damn sure you put it back in the same way it came out.

 

ok I'm having the kinda the same problem... very irritating... I took everything apart... cleaned the TPS, IACV and MAP sensors... put everything back together... test drove it... at stops signes...floored it and it ran perfect for about 30 mins... now its back to when I stop at stop signs and go to give it just a little bit of gas... it dies... also when I'm going 20 or 30mph and I floor it... it starts to pick up for a couple of seconds then it idles up and down back and forth... any suggestions please???

 

ok...i pop mine in neutral when coming to a stop and it doesn't die anymore when i do that...what does that mean if so???... automatic

 

Check for an exhaust leak using seafoam. If you don't know how to do this find a mechanic that does. If no leaks anywhere from the exhaust manifold to the oxygen sensor, replace the oxygen sensor.

 

or just check utoob.

https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...a+exhaust+leak

 

I have started having the same problems with my '95 Civic. Runs well for about 20 minutes, then idles low and dies at stops. Did you find a solution? My temporary fix has been to put it in neutral and hold rpms around 1000, but I know this isn't great or permanent.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

1999 Accord EX, 4 cyl, problem just started last night. Low idle when coming to stop, and died once. Waited 10 sec, restarted and was ok. Today, long as I keep the AC on then it won't idle too low, but all of my research indicates main relay box should be replaced. Just bought one and will have it installed tomorrow. Doesn't look to be more than a 15-20 min job. Pretty certain not fuel pump, because a) Accord fuel pumps virtually never poop out, and b) if it was, then it would either work, or not work; a more absolute symptom.

 

Let me know how it works out for you. Mine ran okay throughout the winter, but is having some issues since it switched back to summer blend fuel. Thought it was fixed, but apparently not...

Thanks!

 

Try what this guy did and change out your brake booster valve. I can't see how it works at the moment but its such a cheap piece it doesn't hurt to try. Keep in mind it only goes one way.

 

I had the main relay switch switched out and the idle seems to have stabilized so that it doesn't sink really low (next to dying out that is). I don't know if it feels 100% quite yet. I have to replace the rotor and dist cap/plugs anyway next week so I'll see if that helps further. Plugs are only 12k miles old, but rotor/cap not replaced since 2011. I'll update again after that.