I have both spark at the plug, and have fuel pressure at the fuel rail. I did a compression check and here is what I have:

Cylinder 1: 120 psi
Cylinder 2: 110 psi
Cylinder 3: 160 psi
Cylinder 4: 160 psi

Is this the sign of a bad head gasket? There is no oil present in the water or vice versa.

Thanks in advance for your feedback.

 

You do not need to have coolant in the oil or visa versa, the coolant could be getting burned with the air / fuel mixture and going right out the tailpipe. You need to do a wet compression test next, put a cap of oil in each cylinder, let it sit a while, crank over the engine to blow excess oil out of the empty spark plug holes then redo your compression test.

Testing for spark outside of the cylinder is not a good test, you need a spark tester, it looks like a spark plug with a really big spark plug gap, you have to see if your ignition coil can produce 30KV, your test was probably less than 10KV. You also did not verify if the fuel injectors actually squirted fuel in each cylinder. From the looks of your compression readings I would make a WAG that either two injectors are working or the same two injectors are flooding those low compression cylinders.

You have not verified ignition timing with a timing light while cranking nor have you verified mechanical timing by inspecting timing gear alignment marks.

Do you know how to short out the ECU diagnostic 2 pin connector to see if you have any codes in the computer, it will not always light up the CEL to let you know there is a problem.

What is the history of the car prior to this no start condition please, work recently done, car sat for long time, anything please.

 

Duane, customer was driving car and the top radiator hose blew up. Then they replaced that and the car drove again for a few days and then just quit. I am trying to help this girl out with her car but am limited on what to do. I checked the spark with an additional plug so I didn't take the plug out of the motor to check spark. The spark is very big and bright so I really don't think that is the problem.

 

Thats fair, please continue with wet test and other inspections please.

Go ahead and cut the L off of a spare spark plug, this will give you the widest gap on a standard plug for future testing.

Pull the distributor cap off and see if the rotor is damaged or came loose and if the indexing is off, by chance.

 

How long did they drive after the hose blew? It could have overheated and that's why the lower comp in the two cyl.

 

Is there any indication that this engine is making any attempt to start at all? Or is it totally unresponsive?

P

 

It cranks but will not start. They drove it about 2 days after they replaced the hose and put new antifreeze in it.

 

Still waiting for other tests above when you get time my friend.