I have a 95 prelude se, with a jdm h22... I thinks a jdm, the only code on the block is only H22A without a 1 or 4 so idk what that means. Im not sure wich ecu i have yet.

So it all started when i was on the highway my check engine light came on and my car started jerking every now and then. I pulled the code and it was the tp sensor, so i unplugged it while i tryed to find a new one. Went to a junkyard and pulled one from a h23, light still on and eratic driving, so i bought a brand new one from ebay for a jdm h22a, still didnt fix the problem so i left it off, because it was my daily grinder. Then couple months later every now and then it would act eratic. If i floored it while in gear, or not even flooring it it would jump eratically, restarting tha car would stop that symptom, but it was like the lottery, sometimes i would have to restart it a couple times before that would go away. But usually on the first start-up of the day it wouldnt do that, it would mostly occur on warm or heated up start-ups.

Then i scanned it again and i got the cyp code along with the tp because its still unplugged.

I just bought a multimeter to start isolating the tp, ckp, heated o2 sensor, and/or whatever else may tie into this problem.


My question is what could cause this symptom on warm starts sometimes, and most of the time not on cold start?

I just bought a multimeter to start isolating the tp, ckp, heated o2 sensor, and/or whatever else may tie into this problem.

 

Did you set your TPS to the correct voltage?

 

How are you suppose to do that?

 

With a multi meter.

You have to prob the center wire with the positive multi meter on the tps. Ground the other prob to the car. Set the car to the ON postion without the car running, and then move the tps up and down until it reads 0.45-0.5v on the muilti meter than you have to tighten down the TPS so that the volts remain the same

 

I guess thats why they make the bolts on the usdm ones with no phillips or flat head. So honda can make a butload off selling the whole tb....

Im going to do that now

 

Use a hack say to cut slits in those bolts, and use a flat head

 

Well idk if just the jdm one but on mine it had hex screws.

I just went out there and figured out i dont got time to do it before work, pluss i found a chaffed wire so on my way home from work ima swing by radioshack.

So test on the center one but then groun out wich other one? both? top? bottom?

 

Im pretty sure its the center wire, if someone else can chime in and agree or disagree with me here. 99 percent sure its the center wire

 

I tried finding out, but i cant find it anywhere...

 

same problem here im gonna switch te tps this week and see wat happends , ifnot idk i got a code for 02 sensor too...

 

I've had that problem since i got my car running 2 years ago. I've set the voltage every time correctly with 3-4 TPS swapped through that time. I actually haven't pinpointed teh problem, but it happens a LOT less lately (knock on wood). the car does exactly what you described. i'll be driving, and suddenly the car will not accept the fact that i have my foot on the gas and coast and bog if i still have my foot on the gas. then it suddenly realizes and the car SLAMS ahead. not too bad on the highway, but when i'm pulling out into a street and it happens I either almost get hit by a car or start burning out when it comes back to life. the weirdest f-ing thing ever.

sorry i couldn't help with a solution, but my best advice is set the voltage and pray your car isn't messed up like mine. I went through all the troubleshooting in the honda manual and the last step is replace the ECU.. Search for a PDF manual online and you should find the process described to set the voltage.

 

Idk the actual proper way to position the tp, so this was a guess.

But i turned the key to on and measured black lead on middle and positive on yellow/wht(on the plug, not the jack/tp), and i got a steady +4.82vdc.
So then i plugged it in and exposed some wire and tested black lead on middle and red on yell/wht then positioned the tp to the exact point where i got a steady 4.82vdc then tightened it.

Scanned it then still got codes 7 & 9.
I test drove it and it would still fart around if i floor it at low rpm, but in the higher revs it wasnt bad.

Whats the best way to drive? with the tp unplugged or plugged in with something wrong in the circuit or whatever.

 

Scratch that.

It did work, i just had to restart the ecm by disconnecting the baterry for a a couple mins...then it worked fine and now its only throwing code 9.....sweet 1 down 1 to go

 

sweet man. what's code 9 and you need any help with it?

 

Code 9 is the cyp sensor or circuit.

Hopefully thats all it is, and its nothing deeper.

 

In looking at the manual there is a red/white wire on D19, which appears to be on the opposite side of the connector and the second wire from the bottom.

 

I'm a bit late on this and a noob question... - but what are the TP and cyp sensors? Don't need operational explaination - I am just not sure which sensors you are referring to.

TIA.

 

The tp is the throttle position sensor, and the cyp is the number 1 cylinder position sensor? im not exactly sure though but i know its something like cylinder position

 

i figured out that i have a p-13

Is this the stock ecm?

There is a plug hanging from the harness fir the dizzy plug, tghe two wires on it are wht/yel and the other is black, anyone know what it is?

 

yea P13 is the right ECU. i can't remember how to decipher if its JDM or not, but the P13 (JDM or USDM) will run an OBD1 H22 without problem. The wire u speak of, im not sure what it is, but the black wire should be ground. was your car originally a VTEC model? if not, then thats probably for VTEC or something

 

It was the chasis is an se so i think it was an h23? i'll snap a picture reall quick

 

I just took these and its night time so therenot all that good.

The two wire on the plug are black then wht/yel.

Its hanging right below the dizzy.

Anyone know what its for?

 

That plug is for a temp sensor that is on the piece that you connect the upper radiator hose too on the front of the block. Since the jdm ecu doesn't use that sensor, it is not needed.

 

So i have a jdm ecu too?

Do you know from what year and type?

 

Idk when or how this happen, But after i fixed the tp sensor code, it came back so i thought i just had to reset the ref voltage again, but it was still good.

So if i buy another one would this happen again? or is a faulted ecm?

Can the wiring being chaffed to something or grounded or ****ed up somehow could of done this?