my car currently, with my half-assed driving abilities, runs 11.5's @125-126 all day long. its a 90 hatchback

i've got koni yellows on it, with regular-rate coilovers (450 rear 350 front)

would it help enough to get higher rate rear springs, or just a full-swap out rear drag setup? it seems to squat quite a bit in the rear, and my 60 fts on a well prepped track are about 1.8s (24.5x8x14'' MTs). traction is limited (its got a quaife, etc too). its a high torque setup for a honda....

its a pain to swap a lot of crap out before i go to the track, or after i arrive there......sooooooo, thats why i kinda want to get more opinions. not looking to have them on while street driving.

i'll be correcting camber this year (car it low), and removing quite a bit of weight. not really looking to make much more power. here is a video of it launching, etc.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hg12BMudcD8

another kinda crappy one

http://video.google.com/videosearch?...b=0&aq=f&aq=f#

 

Keep your Konis and put some 1000 pound springs in the back(18k). I did this along with an alignment and 12k fronts...311 whp on 23" slicks has netted me a handful of 1.69 60's with an open diff. Make sure your no too dumped and get that front camber in check. Car is stiff but daily driveable, so you can just leave them in.

 

Funny that you posted this thread, I'm in the same market.

1000 lb springs is daily driveable?! How heavy is your car?

 

Haha im looking into the same thing, looking forward to seeing some more feedback.

 

Basically, what I want is impossible:

1) Daily driveable
2) Good drag performance
3) Cheap.

 

Just throw on some $50 Skunk2 rear drag springs. I've been running them for over 5 years now. I used to daily drive the car as well. its rough at first, but you get used to it. I drive like poop but can still nail 1.6 60's. still needing seat time.

 

See, you had them on an EK though. (Judging by your sig.)

An EK is alot heaver than a gutted EF, which me and the OP drive. This makes the spring rate not as noticeable.

 

1000lb springs are noticeable in either car. they will help you at the track, in my ef, DDing it was ok, *** end was rock solid though. but you get used to it

 

Drag launches in the rear.. Stock cut springs in the front... 1.80's 60'.. Changing it just a little for next season.

 

i have the skunk2 drag springs in my EF hatch, that coupled with non reclining seats makes for a stiff ride, i live in pot hole central alberta and its hard on the kidneys, haha. some bumps i have to pick my *** off the seat before i hit them otherwise my head would hit the roof.

if you live in a place where the roads are in good shape then it would be fine, i dont think i could daily a car with drag springs in it on rough roads. maybe i'm just getting old, haha.

 

I believe that my current springs are the same rates as yours redzcstandardhatch.

Im not going to change mine up yet. I cut some 1.80's on those M&H bias ply 235-60-15 street tires. I think with a better alignment up front and some stiffer bushing in the front I could do better.

I did see a h-t member run mid to low 10's recently on some busted rear shocks and softer spring rate coils. (not sure of the spring rate)...Anyways, his car is def sagging in the rear on launch but it ran good.

 

i have pulled several 1.7-something 60fts...but i'd like to be more consistent, and it seems that doing the same thing produces varried results on the driver-end.... i think i'll look for a set of real heavy springs to swap into the rear

 

I went with a spring rate around 700 for the rear because my car see's alot of street time. the ride is stiff, but not horrible. I pull 1.6x 60 ft's with 22inch slicks in a sohc 4dr weighing around 2500lbs.

 

Hrmmmmm...... After reading a few other posts on here, and talking to a couple of different people, I'm starting to wonder if we're really not putting enough thought into our suspensions. I've read/heard that having the rear super stiff, keeps the weight pushed down over the front tires, which seems ideal, and yet if you look at enough race footage, and talk to enough drivers, it appears that the front end still pushes up, while the car is accelerating. Then on shift, the front end seems to drop, then after the shift, and the car is under power again the front end comes back up. I have to think that that lifting the front end of the car up, rather than pushing the car down the track is actually sapping some of the tq away from the task. Anyone else have any input on this? I'm thinking that using a better quality shock and lower spring pressure out back might help alleviate some of what I'm talking about

 

if you get the valving or settings correct on the front, it will rise but controlled. my car is night and day since progress re valved mine and went to 1000lb rears and 450 fronts.

 

i'm thinking of running the konis at full stiff next year, front and rear, and tossing in a set of 12k springs i've got sitting around. (roughly double what the rears are now i believe)

any suggestions as far as rear ride height goes?

 

$50 skunk2 drag springs?

im also interested. i cant seem to find any skunk2 drag springs anywhere.... anyone have any helpful links?

 

i ended up putting my 12k rear springs in. worked great! pulled an all-time personal best of 1.70 60 ft so far. 1.6's next time! got an 11.3 @127.5 out of the car too..boost by gear will be helping that drop too

 

thanks for the info.... this with a traction bar is my next upgrade


anybody know where to get just the replacement springs?

 

I have a very old set of Koni/GC Coilovers in the front and a set of SK2 Drag Launch Springs in the rear with KYB AGX's, it made a noticeable difference the car feels alot more stable under boost, before with the GC combo in the rear it felt like I was in a RWD car about to lift a wheel it squatted so much.

As you stated your car is a little low, so that is hurting you some. I looked at the vid of my one pass on slicks and my car was rock solid there was no rear squatting at all it was just level and it felt that way in the car as well.

Clayton, I have seen cars that jump in the front and I have seen cars that dont, I am pretty sure one way to stop the front end from lifting in limiting spraps. I dont think the initial lift hurts too much as long as the front end settles down quickly.

 

yea, def agree with clayton and 96 gsr-t. certain shocks (like Pro C's) allow you to shorten the shock body, thus the front end doesn't lift. and the rear you can stiffen thru compression or springs. they also make limiting straps (T1) but you can make your own.you have to control it from both ends. i've seen this for so long, and no one else ever really seems to think of it. its night and day once you get the car set up. you'll go from spinning third from a roll to barely spinning 2nd.

 

would also like to know

 

I went 9.8's with street springs in a 2500lb car. I put 18k's in not long ago and I know that I would never run them on the street. It is the roughest ride. It hurts to drive.
In 06 I had a Mugen spring and strut and the car rode awesome making 375whp I went 11.0@126 with a 1.61 60'. When I ran on DR with the Mugen susp. I needed limiting straps to keep the front down but slicks it didnt matter.

 

Check LSD motorsports for the skunk2's there called draglaunchs if Im not mistaken. Great info in this thread. Kinda proves some points that I always try to get at with people. making the power is easy but putting it to the ground can be a major pain if your using sub par stuff. ie soft springs etc............