I'm starting to get really frustrated.
so, i have a 98 gsr. it burns oil, like, pretty bad that its all over the back of the car. So, i went and had the top end rebuilt new valve seals, guides, etc. The guy who did it said the pistons look good they dont move around in the block or whatever. Anyway, the car still burns oil, just as bad, if not worse. i went a thousand miles or so on 4 quarts of oil. I honestly don't know what to do anymore, i've dumped so much ****ing money in the car, all i want to do is fix the oil problem.
anybody know anything that could help me?
anybody know anything that could help me?
I requested a short story for a title.
Joined: Jul 2005
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From: hard parked at the sandbar
ya if you rebuilt the head and the problem still persists its time for a bottom end rebuild.
but you should have done compression and leak down tests first..
but you should have done compression and leak down tests first..
Lol. Get your money back and find a mechanic that knows his head from his *** and will replace your piston rings for you. I absolutely guarantee your piston rings are shot.
Agreed. Wounder how he check to see if they were good. Tried jamming a screw driver between the piston and wall.
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Hey guys, I'm new to these forums but heard some good stuff about them. I got a 99 GS-R that will burn about 1/2 - 1 quart every 300 miles of normal driving. Ive talked with a couple of mechanics that insist that valve seals will not cause this much oil consumption. Personally I am about to do valve seals myself to see if this problem stops, if it persists then my plan is to do the oil control rings. The acura mechanics seem to think that oil control rings are the only viable answer to this problem. The motor only has 105K miles on it and if the oil control rings were bad wouldnt it cause other problems? I couldnt imagine a ring cracking or breaking and not causing havok in that motor. I did a compression test and got 215 - 220 lbs for all the cylinders. This just seems to point away from oil control rings. Sorry about the oil problems, I'll keep you guys posted as to how it turns out.
Hey guys, I'm new to these forums but heard some good stuff about them. I got a 99 GS-R that will burn about 1/2 - 1 quart every 300 miles of normal driving. Ive talked with a couple of mechanics that insist that valve seals will not cause this much oil consumption. Personally I am about to do valve seals myself to see if this problem stops, if it persists then my plan is to do the oil control rings. The acura mechanics seem to think that oil control rings are the only viable answer to this problem. The motor only has 105K miles on it and if the oil control rings were bad wouldnt it cause other problems? I couldnt imagine a ring cracking or breaking and not causing havok in that motor. I did a compression test and got 215 - 220 lbs for all the cylinders. This just seems to point away from oil control rings. Sorry about the oil problems, I'll keep you guys posted as to how it turns out.
Just and FYI... start your own thread next time.
Did you do a leak down test as well?
and a compression test was done by a different mechanic and he said that the compression was fine and the rings were fine too.
i dono how much that going to cost you, but that mechanic should'v started with a leak down test and not making lazy assumptions that valve seals leak so much oil.
if you burning that much amount of oil it is obvious that piston rings are worn out without any test, bag seals would not let so much oil in the chamber unless you take them off.
slap that mechanic in the face with a service manual, and make him go back and change the rings, appropriately. you can't conclude that rings are fine by just looking on top of the piston lol
if you burning that much amount of oil it is obvious that piston rings are worn out without any test, bag seals would not let so much oil in the chamber unless you take them off.
slap that mechanic in the face with a service manual, and make him go back and change the rings, appropriately. you can't conclude that rings are fine by just looking on top of the piston lol
i have a few quick questions. do you believe that the mechanic that did the work is competent. did you get your old parts back or just a bill. have you check your oil pan/ bolt and looked for oil there. have you checked you oil filter for oil there. does your block have a hairline crack that expands after the block warms up. or is there any visable oil on your head or block at all. if not perform a compression test your self if all comes out good, go get your money back from the mechanic and get someone else to do the job for you. its very easy to find the potheads at honda that want side work and know their ****.
Here's a data point for you. When our '94 GS-R had 120K miles on it, it was consuming one quart every 1000 miles or so. At that rate, it was a no-brainer; it was more cost-effective to just keep adding oil, rather than pay for a rebuild. When it hit around 168K miles, it started using one quart every 500 miles, and we had to watch it very closely. (No matter WHAT you do, you have to make sure it doesn't run too low on oil!) By the time we reached 174K miles, we noticed some coolant in the oil, so at that point we did a full rebuild, top and bottom. (We had looked around for a used engine, but the prices for used GS-R engines were so high, and there's always the reliability question, that it made more sense for us to rebuild.) We've put 9K miles on it since then, and it is running wonderfully. It's now consuming one quart of oil every 7500 miles. 
Find a good mechanic if you don't already have one (if you have the experience, time, tools, place, etc to DIY, that's even better). Ours is excellent, and very reasonably priced. We had him do all the scheduled maintenance along with the rebuild, since the labor to access everything is done anyway. So it included a timing belt and water pump replacement, spark plugs, the big cooling system hoses, valve adjustment, and coolant flush (all of which were going to be due soon anyway). We paid $2500, but the cost of all that scheduled maintenance was included, so we "saved" that portion since we would have paid for it anyway.

Find a good mechanic if you don't already have one (if you have the experience, time, tools, place, etc to DIY, that's even better). Ours is excellent, and very reasonably priced. We had him do all the scheduled maintenance along with the rebuild, since the labor to access everything is done anyway. So it included a timing belt and water pump replacement, spark plugs, the big cooling system hoses, valve adjustment, and coolant flush (all of which were going to be due soon anyway). We paid $2500, but the cost of all that scheduled maintenance was included, so we "saved" that portion since we would have paid for it anyway.
Last edited by nsxtasy; Nov 21, 2008 at 11:25 AM.
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