i am doing the driveshaft on 95 Accord, AT, Vtec. Many of the Local shops i called said they use a local rebuilder. i called him, he wants $50 to rebuild mine or sell me rebuilts he did, and he keeps my cores. He gives a lifetime warranty, but he is doing it out of his house and what good is the warranty going to be of he dies next year. At least with a known established brand the warranty might be trustworthy.

i got this Honda used, and don't know what shafts are in it now OE or AftermarketIf my cores are the factory. Cardone said they would rebuild mine for the same $52 price. is that a good choice if mine are the original shafts?

Here is the result of what i found on the net for driveshafts:

Honda New = 1 yr warranty from Honda $380 + ea
Honda Rebuilt = 3 yr warranty from 20% discount $140 or more ea

NEW AFTERMARKET:

HDK, 9002 ISO, since 1985, from Japan? -- i cannot locate any HDK dealers
GKN, K4000-90662, $192.04 Made various places, Co Hdqtrs in England. Used by Toyota ad Nissan, but not Honda
USA made, A1 Cardone, USA $87 Lifetime warranty
FEQ, $70
EMPI, eBay $68
ACEI, K4000-104568 $72.93
CVU, $50 - $170 ??? same site

My research showed many China and Taiwan as sources of newly made driveshafts . Probably the true source of many brand names. Looks to be a global market, but which brands are reliable and durable.

REBUILT AFTERMARKET:

USA rebuilt, A1Cardone, $52,
Auto Zone, Rebuilt in Mexico $60
Pep Boys, Fenco brand, Rebuilt where ? $60
Advance Auto, Powerline by GCB, Rebuilt where ? $60

 

Its $100 plus shipping plus your core from Japan for a reman man, it gives six months only also, help out the guy who lives down the street, not some big name company. Lifetime warantee, if the guy moves and is still in business its still under warantee. If he dies put a lean against his estate or send your cousin Vinnie over to take care of things for you.

Dont loose the receipt.

 

Go with the local guy, or find a local business that offers rebuilds. Either way, keep it local.
Not only will they be easily available, you'll avoid shipping expenses and those that sold them to you will be easy to find if anything happens.
Buy the Lapanese units, and you may find youself paying more in shipping to return a defective one than what it would have cost to just buy another one.
Go Local

P

 

Dude my message just disappeared.

The big nut is a driveshaft nut, is it called a spindle nut by Honda. Dont remove the castle nut, if you use a puller, unscrew it till its flush with the end of the pin so the tool will not damage the pin threads.

I unscrew the two upper arm 17mm nuts from in the engine bay to drop the upper arm and swing it out of the wheel well to get the axle out of the knuckle. There are two types of upper arms, you will need to look at yours before you do this but worse case scenario, the shock will get dropped too then no need to fully remove the wishbone, only the lower bolt and the brake hose and ABS wire.

DO you have ABS, that is another issue.

 

I agree. Do it local.

 

I would either go with the local guy or www.raxles.com

 

Rebuilt FTW. Local guy for sure. I've had AutoZone and Napa and they both hold up good, are like 50 bucks, and have lifetimes as well.

Sometimes you just don't go OEM when a rebuilt will get you there with lifetime warranty. OEM rebuilt or new usually lasts , but not always. i can change an axle in like 20 minutes now, used to take me way longer.

Just do it, simple as cake.

The only thing I'm not sure on the Accords is if you can use the square socket wrench trick to pop the LBJ from the LCA hence my post.

Unbolting the UCA. Does this really work good? Interesting... Alot easier than popping the LBJ, well removing the cotter pin at least. I HATE cotter pins! Always banging my knuckles bloody when I take them out.

 

not on the 6th gens it doesn't. I usually end up putting the jack on the brake rotor to get the supension to pop it off. Additional applications of heat, the BFH and swearing if that doesn't work.

 

Yes i have abs. I cannot picture your procedure because i have no pics. at least in the manual most of it makes sense AND i can see what they are talking about. another guy said he removes the lca not the lbj. well my lca has all kinds of suspension parts attached to it, so i cant picture that working either.

 

cardone "new" is the best bet IMO.

i have experience with these and i prefer them when talking about OE level axles. otherwise, you run the risk of having to run through a few until you find one that does what it should.

 

One thing to consider about rebuilt, When they are plunged out to fit the oversized bearings in the CV shell, the case hardening is removed.
I think it is great that the rebuilders offer warranty on the product.......what about the cost of labor?
Whats that old saying?? "The stingy man pays the most"

I've seen this movie.

 

that's what i went with.

atoz